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  #351  
Old 08/07/2007, 04:04 PM
mcrist mcrist is offline
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I didn't realize that the Vortech ran that hot. Mine seems warm but it has plenty of air flow. I will need to consider this when I finish my cabinetry.
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  #352  
Old 08/07/2007, 04:18 PM
jnarowe jnarowe is offline
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Eco-Tech says that it is an issue only in my system because of my tank room temps. I just got back up from the tank room where I installed a fan dedicated to one Vortech to see what effect it has on its temp. and peformance. My tank room can get up to 80F and on really hot days, even a little higher.

After my tank got crazed, I bought a non-contact thermometer to monitor my Vortech temps. and mine got as high as 150F on their surface. That's why I can't run them full blast. From most posts I have read on the matter, other reefers are getting temps. more like 100F - 110F where at 2/3 ower I am lucky to keep them at 125F - 130F.
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  #353  
Old 08/07/2007, 05:41 PM
invincible569 invincible569 is offline
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thirschman, im in agreement. Dont forget about the service and support too. I know Neptune is very good with that.

GSM, I will measure. How much clearance do I need?

Josh, I havent started on my sump design or any of the equipment setup. I just have it sitting everywhere in the garage. My goal was to get my tank up and running and let it mature and just slowly start working on each little thing here and there as time passes by. As for the BK400, i do not own that anymore, but would like to get my hands on the new conical design. I talked with Gary of Captive Oceans and he still sells BK's. He said he also has a lot of parts that others may not.

jnarowe, I did hear about your crazing. Sorry to hear that. Having glass definitely wont be an issue.
  #354  
Old 08/07/2007, 05:58 PM
GSMguy GSMguy is offline
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3"-3.5"

not much
mine has less than 3.5 because of my temporary light stand and no overheat issues so far
  #355  
Old 08/07/2007, 05:59 PM
thirschmann thirschmann is offline
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How could I forget about there great service and support, another thing I was wary about and was the reason I did not go for the biotopus.

Had not heard about this problem with very hot vortechs, unfortunate as I was hoping to put them inside a enclosed space if I need them. Could anyone tell me about how far they come off of the glass on the outside? I mean the motor section of course. Also, do they make a magnet that can attach to 1" glass?
Sorry for asking so many questions on your thread.
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  #356  
Old 08/07/2007, 06:02 PM
GSMguy GSMguy is offline
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1 inch glass adapter is comning Thirschmann

also see my above post for the motor distance off the glass
  #357  
Old 08/08/2007, 08:20 PM
danskim danskim is offline
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Inspiring.
  #358  
Old 08/11/2007, 04:27 PM
invincible569 invincible569 is offline
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My Aqua Medic Oceanrunner 6500 pump died that feeds my chiller. I was able to replace it with the help of Fish Gallery (Aquarium Environments) using a Coralife Pump.

  #359  
Old 08/11/2007, 05:19 PM
melev melev is offline
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I've not seen that one before. How many watts does it use (I think I see 80?), and how many GPH? Is it 1" in and out? How long is their warranty?
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  #360  
Old 08/11/2007, 05:49 PM
maxxII maxxII is offline
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Melev,
It says 1090 gph above the 80 watt line.



Nick
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  #361  
Old 08/11/2007, 06:46 PM
robster robster is offline
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It is a relabeled/painted Panworld.
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  #362  
Old 08/11/2007, 07:59 PM
invincible569 invincible569 is offline
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If it isnt one thing.. it's another! I've been busy all day trying to get my chiller set back to its correct temperature setting point and now my Kent Maxxima HiS 60 stopped extracting clean water. I took it apart and cleaned out all the parts and noticed the flow slows down tremendously at the membrane level. I've tried to clean it out, but it's still very slow. Have you guys ran into this and is the problem for sure the membrane and I just need to replace it?

Marc, Looks like Nick got you the answer. It's been working great after activating it.
  #363  
Old 08/11/2007, 08:49 PM
melev melev is offline
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If you have good water pressure before the membrane, it could be the membrane is finally done. I've heard one way to test a membrane is to soak it in vinegar and water for a while. It will unclog it if it is clogged, but I tend to think it will probably damage it in the process. How old is it?

And how long is the warranty on that pump?
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  #364  
Old 08/11/2007, 09:33 PM
CAreefer CAreefer is offline
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E, Did you check the waste line for blockage? I've heard of that line pluging on occasion and it basically stops water production. Do you have a flush kit on the unit? Make sure you get the flow restrictor back in also.

Good choice on the pump too. My PanWorld is almost as quiet as the Mak4 we talked about.

CAReefer
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  #365  
Old 08/11/2007, 10:07 PM
invincible569 invincible569 is offline
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Marc, the membrane is 7 months old. It's possible that at some time the water was not as clean and it clogged it up. The vinegar idea does sound interesting. The warranty on the Coralife Pump is 2 yrs.

Marshall, I would of ordered a Mak4 like yours, but time was limited as I needed to get this chiller alive again. Im really glad fish gallery had this in stock. I didnt know it was a Panworld either. Good thing since its from one of the designers from Iwaki. Honestly, I cant hear the Coralife pump come on at all. I was wondering if it was on when I plugged it in. I dont have a flush kit and I do have the flow restrictor back in. I also checked the waste water and its flowing out freely. Thanks for the tips. Looks like I need to run out and buy a new membrane tomorrow if any is in stock.

Last edited by invincible569; 08/11/2007 at 10:13 PM.
  #366  
Old 08/11/2007, 10:14 PM
melev melev is offline
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Check your waste line before you mess with the membrane. Maybe that is the problem after all. Is anything coming out of it? Also, this is rare but maybe the flow restrictor is kinked (this is in the waste line where it connects to the membrane housing on some units) and water can't get out.

The membrane should last years, not months. Maybe AZDesertRat could help you. Or the vendor, of course.
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  #367  
Old 08/11/2007, 10:21 PM
invincible569 invincible569 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by melev
Check your waste line before you mess with the membrane. Maybe that is the problem after all. Is anything coming out of it? Also, this is rare but maybe the flow restrictor is kinked (this is in the waste line where it connects to the membrane housing on some units) and water can't get out.

The membrane should last years, not months. Maybe AZDesertRat could help you. Or the vendor, of course.
Thanks Marc. I did check the waste line and the flow restrictor. I blew throuhg it and it had some restriction.. but blowing on it hard enough would let air pass by. Not sure if thats normal or not. WHen I plug everything back in.. I get about 2 drops a second. Usually its a consistent flow.
  #368  
Old 08/11/2007, 11:31 PM
CAreefer CAreefer is offline
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If you do find a membrane tomorrow, make sure it is the same capacity as the one you have, or you'll need to replace the flow restrictor as well. They need to be sized equally. Just a heads up. Being that yours is the Kent 60, does that mean 60 gpd? if so, that will be a bear to find on a Sunday. Even in Houston. If you can find a water filter store open, Culligan, or the like, just get a matching membrane and restrictor, it may only be 25 gpd or so, but you'll be making water again if that's your problem.
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  #369  
Old 08/12/2007, 12:55 AM
jnarowe jnarowe is offline
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and don't forget the famous suggestion made by Marc when I had a problem...have you recently changed out your resin? And is the cartidge installed in the right direction? You know there are arrows on them....damn that one made me feel stupid for days, especially after buying all new membranes and filters.
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  #370  
Old 08/12/2007, 05:58 AM
invincible569 invincible569 is offline
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Thanks guys for the help! I will investigate more this morning. It is 60 gpd. One thing I did notice when I was shopping for a membrane online was that the one i bought last time was not a Kent. My last Kent membrane lasted me for years. And in the last 6 months, I have changed out all my resins/cartridges. I think its time for a new change anyways.
  #371  
Old 08/12/2007, 06:14 AM
CAreefer CAreefer is offline
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I don't think there are many membrane manufacturers out there E. 2 maybe 3 at the most. Dow (Filmtec) is the biggest and the best IMO, Applied Membranes Inc., and Hydranautics come to mind. I know chlorine is a killer so If your water supply got an extra dose, it coulda wiped your membrane. The carbon blocks are only good for a small amount of chlorine, then they let it pass.
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  #372  
Old 08/12/2007, 06:20 AM
invincible569 invincible569 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by CAreefer
I don't think there are many membrane manufacturers out there E. 2 maybe 3 at the most. Dow (Filmtec) is the biggest and the best IMO, Applied Membranes Inc., and Hydranautics come to mind. I know chlorine is a killer so If your water supply got an extra dose, it coulda wiped your membrane. The carbon blocks are only good for a small amount of chlorine, then they let it pass.
I think thats exactly what happened because all out of the sudden it stopped working. Im glad you are reassuring this with me because those membranes are a hefty price compared to everything else in the unit.
  #373  
Old 08/12/2007, 08:24 AM
BuckeyeFS BuckeyeFS is offline
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Invincible - got your PM.

A few questions and some summary info to get us started with the troubleshooting:

All your prefilters are less than 6 months old.

Your membrane is less than a year old.

Do you have a flow restrictor installed that matches your "new" membrane capacity? Although that unit is advertised as a 60 gpd system, I believe it comes with a 50 gpd Filmtec membrane. What is the capacity of your new membrane?

What is your water pressure at the membrane? What is your water pressure at the tap?

What is the tds reading at the tap? Of your RO water? Of your DI water?

What is your waste to permeate ratio?

The most common cause of deceased production is clogged prefilters, regardless of the amount of time they've been in.

Russ
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  #374  
Old 08/12/2007, 09:28 AM
invincible569 invincible569 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by BuckeyeFS
Invincible - got your PM.

A few questions and some summary info to get us started with the troubleshooting:

All your prefilters are less than 6 months old.

Your membrane is less than a year old.

Do you have a flow restrictor installed that matches your "new" membrane capacity? Although that unit is advertised as a 60 gpd system, I believe it comes with a 50 gpd Filmtec membrane. What is the capacity of your new membrane?

What is your water pressure at the membrane? What is your water pressure at the tap?

What is the tds reading at the tap? Of your RO water? Of your DI water?

What is your waste to permeate ratio?

The most common cause of deceased production is clogged prefilters, regardless of the amount of time they've been in.

Russ
Russ, thanks for the follow up. Here are some answers:

1. Membrane - 60gpd - 60 GPD TFC Membrane (http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewIt...ct~RO1179.html)
2. I didnt need to replace the restrictor as I was matching the 60gpd.
3. I dont have any pressure gauges. But it is very powerful. It squirts out like a car wash cleaner nozzle.
4. I have no TDS readings. But I do plan to order one.
5. How would I measure the permeate ratio?

What I did do is unplugged the line where it hits the membrane and its very strong at that level.
  #375  
Old 08/12/2007, 09:50 AM
BuckeyeFS BuckeyeFS is offline
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So we know you have a matched membrane and restrictor.

Check your waste to permeate (water that has permeated through the membrane - your purified water) ratio by comparing the amount of water that comes out of your waste line to the amount of purified water that is produced in an identical period of time - OR - Time how long it takes to fill a quart container with permeate. Then time how long it takes to fill up the same container with waste water. It should fill 4 times faster with waste water.

You should think about getting a pressure gauge add on kit - that's one of the best ways to tell if your prefilters (sediment filters and carbon filter(s)) are clogged and robbing pressure from the membrane.

You'll also want to get a TDS meter - this is your primary tool to measure performance of your membrane and your DI resin.

Is there no purified water at all being produced?

Russ
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