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  #976  
Old 04/12/2006, 10:29 PM
zapata41 zapata41 is offline
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ball, can i get a pic or two of the prop assm.

Tim
  #977  
Old 04/12/2006, 10:36 PM
Roland Jacques Roland Jacques is offline
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Ball, what size is the "Octura 1440" these pumps are so much stronger than mj it seems that they should be able to triple 3000gph. your housing look great nice and compact. did you try the prop a little futher out away from the pump? could your prop be to close to the housing may not be getting enough water coming in from behind the prop.

can you they us more about this
"I had to dremel just a little bit off the bottom of the prop in order to make the pump start up 100% of the time on its own."
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Last edited by Roland Jacques; 04/12/2006 at 11:21 PM.
  #978  
Old 04/12/2006, 10:51 PM
OC00l OC00l is offline
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Can you get more pictures of the actual impeller and magnet without the housing on? or removed from the case?

will
  #979  
Old 04/13/2006, 12:25 AM
Brent Thomann Brent Thomann is offline
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Inexpensive Maxi-Jet Sale till 6/30/06

I have a Dr.Foster & Smith Sale Catalog which has the Maxi-Jets Discounted a little more from what they have them advertised on their website.

goto-

http://www.drsfostersmith.com

Search for these item numbers (item #'s only)-
UG-517501 MJ400 $11.39
UG-517514 MJ600 $11.99
UG-517527 MJ900 $14.99
UG-517540 MJ1200 $16.99
to get it to show the cheaper pricing. You must do a search for those "UG-######" item numbers to bring up those cheaper prices. If you go directly to the Max-Jet pumps from their home page, will have them at a higher price w/ CD-###### item numbers. Note: You can swap the UG- "letters" with the current websites CD- item numbers with a lot of products throughout their website to save on other items too. Like Instant Ocean & Reef Crystals 160gal buckets of salt UG-16881 $33.99 & UG-16882 $37.79 (no-extra shipping charges either).

Brent

Last edited by Brent Thomann; 04/13/2006 at 01:06 AM.
  #980  
Old 04/13/2006, 12:45 AM
smells like fish smells like fish is offline
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Thanks for the heads up on the MJ prices.

Note: That the item # for the MJ900 is UG-517527
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  #981  
Old 04/13/2006, 01:07 AM
Brent Thomann Brent Thomann is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by smells like fish
Thanks for the heads up on the MJ prices.

Note: That the item # for the MJ900 is UG-517527
Thanks, I fixed it.
  #982  
Old 04/13/2006, 01:38 AM
dhnguyen dhnguyen is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by onetrickpony
A quick question , what rpm do the mj 1200 turn
thanks
Ken

I am guessing and this is just a guess. but most likely 3600 rpm

syncrhonous speed (rpm) = current X Frequency / number of poles in the motor

Srpm = 120 x F / P

Srpm = 120 X 60hz / 2 = 3600

Of course there is also slippage so that number would most likely be a bit lower as well.


D.
  #983  
Old 04/13/2006, 01:43 AM
dhnguyen dhnguyen is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ball
[B]Ive done a lot of modding on the maxijet 1200's. I thought I would try my hand at the 802's next. The following pictures are what I came up with. It was very easy to mod compared to the maxijets because of the fixed shaft. The only downfall is they are just a tad bigger than the maxijets. However, they are a lot more powerful.

I used an Octura 1440 LH prop. I had to dremel just a little bit off the bottom of the prop in order to make the pump start up 100% of the time on its own.

I did a flow test and this pump filled a 2.5 gallon bag in an average of 3 seconds. That makes it run at around 3000 GPH.

This mod would make a nice substitute for a big Tunze pump or the new Vortech pumps while you are saving up money to buy those expensive pumps.

I have a mounting solution that I will be building this weekend. In the meantime, I thought I would show you my idea on the pump part of the mod. You really dont need a huge housing sticking off the pump in order to get good flow.

Here are some pics.

Ball-


That is sweet what you did with the housing. Almost a clone of the Tunze shroud. What did you use to cut the slots?


D.
  #984  
Old 04/13/2006, 02:22 AM
hahnmeister hahnmeister is offline
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That shroud is sweet. Looks very pro. I have made a shroud/housing for the Hi-Spec Aquaclears, tested it on the AC 10/1000 (the mini one), and the results are great. I am awaiting my Hi-Spec 4000 and 3000s, and also have a couple 802s on the way, and plenty of octuras waiting to be put to use... Should be cool...
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  #985  
Old 04/13/2006, 07:03 AM
tgunn tgunn is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by wsc
Is anybody interested in a DIY DC powerhead?

Could use just about any DC motor + prop you want.

I think we all understand the benefits of a DC version.. electronics are no problem, very easy to design. Mechanically, all that I lack is a good way to seal the motor cheaply, easily, and reliably. Anybody got any ideas?
Sealing the shaft would be quite difficult; you'd almost need to use a smaller version of the magnetic coupling they use on the iwaki pumps. And I imagine that means you'd need a somewhat more powerful motor to drive it all..

Tyler
  #986  
Old 04/13/2006, 07:10 AM
tgunn tgunn is offline
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I've got an aquaclear 301 (174 GPH) kicking around. I took off the impeller housing and I notice that it chatters around quite a bit while running under water. I presume that once the prop is on there that the force of it pushing the water will hold the magnet into the pump and prevent the chattering.

I'll have to order some props from that CDN distributor to try the mod out on this particular pump. If it works out well I'll pick up a 402 or 802 and try with those.

Tyler
  #987  
Old 04/13/2006, 07:15 AM
Black71gp Black71gp is offline
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ball thats awesome.. arnt the 802s an awesome pump...
  #988  
Old 04/13/2006, 07:21 AM
Ball Ball is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rothie
Ball-
That is really nice.What did you use for the housing?
I used a 2" to 2.5" PVC fitting.


Quote:
Originally posted by zapata41
ball, can i get a pic or two of the prop assm.

Tim


I glued the prop to a 3/16" rigid airline tube. Then, glued the tube into part of a air valve that came with a maxijet pump (black part in pic). I trimed that down and glued that to the impellor shaft. I them used a dremel to sand it all down to a low profile.


Quote:
Originally posted by yourfishman
Ball, what size is the "Octura 1440" these pumps are so much stronger than mj it seems that they should be able to triple 3000gph. your housing look great nice and compact. did you try the prop a little futher out away from the pump? could your prop be to close to the housing may not be getting enough water coming in from behind the prop.

can you they us more about this
"I had to dremel just a little bit off the bottom of the prop in order to make the pump start up 100% of the time on its own."
I think the Octura 1440 is a 1.5" prop. I didnt want the prop to long because that would introduce vibration. You dont need a lot of length. As long as you have enough air intake on the housing, you can keep it short.

I didnt find the 802 that strong. I did get it to spin a 1.75" Octura and the flow was crazy. Propbably pushing 4000 GPH. However, it wont start it up on its own. It had a hard time starting the 1.5" on its own becasue the pitch on these props are so much. To get it to start up 100% of the time, I had to trim the prop. The ouline in red is where the prop used to be.




Quote:
Originally posted by dhnguyen
Ball-


That is sweet what you did with the housing. Almost a clone of the Tunze shroud. What did you use to cut the slots?


D.
I used a miter saw to score all the lines. I then took a dremel and finished the job. I would of like the cuts to be more clean, but its hard with a dremel. I wish the miter saw would have cut the slots all the way through. I couldnt do that with the miter saw becasue the cuts would have been to long.
  #989  
Old 04/13/2006, 07:40 AM
ChemE ChemE is offline
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The Octura props are numbered as follows:

The first two digits are the pitch in inches
The last two digits are the diameter in millimeters

So the 1440 has 1.4" pitch and a diameter of 40 mm which is 1.575".
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  #990  
Old 04/13/2006, 07:53 AM
Frunkster Frunkster is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by dhnguyen
I am guessing and this is just a guess. but most likely 3600 rpm

syncrhonous speed (rpm) = current X Frequency / number of poles in the motor

Srpm = 120 x F / P

Srpm = 120 X 60hz / 2 = 3600

Of course there is also slippage so that number would most likely be a bit lower as well.


D.
Can you do the math for me to please D?

My voltage suply is 220/240volts @ 50hz

Would be nice to see how they compare

& thats some nice work there Ball
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  #991  
Old 04/13/2006, 08:34 AM
Roland Jacques Roland Jacques is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ball



It had a hard time starting the 1.5" on its own becasue the pitch on these props are so much. To get it to start up 100% of the time, I had to trim the prop. The ouline in red is where the prop used to be.

thanks ball
i found the start up power on these AC 402 to be very week also but once runing its hard to stop. not sure but it seems that the mjs have more start up power. im going to play with the 802 today i was hoping to turn a 2 " prop with the 802.
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  #992  
Old 04/13/2006, 08:50 AM
Ball Ball is offline
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I think an 802 can start up a bigger prop, as long as the prop doesnt have a big pitch.
  #993  
Old 04/13/2006, 09:00 AM
Frunkster Frunkster is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ball
I think an 802 can start up a bigger prop, as long as the prop doesnt have a big pitch.
Got it in one Ball
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If theres a bright spark to the center of the universe, were on the planet it's farthest from - Environmentally speaking,DO SOMETHING NOW, not tomorrow!
  #994  
Old 04/13/2006, 09:13 AM
brians_224 brians_224 is offline
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RE: Ball's Shroud

Is there a limit to how short the shroud can be? (As long as it covers the prop )

I have the lutz mods - I've become disenchanted with their performance and size.
  #995  
Old 04/13/2006, 09:31 AM
Ball Ball is offline
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When I had the housing only a 1/2" longer, the flow coming out of it was not even. It was still as strong, but a little to erratic. With the housing shorter, the flow was less disturbed and more wide.

Since these props put out wide flow, if you have to much of a "tunnel" for the flow to go through, the wide flow will bounce all around that path until the flow exits. When the flow finally exits, it wont be as wide and "smooth".

If you take a naked prop with no housing and run it in water, you can feel the true power of the prop and the true spread of flow. I wanted to mimic that same feel with a housing on.
  #996  
Old 04/13/2006, 09:36 AM
brians_224 brians_224 is offline
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Thanks Ball - great post.
  #997  
Old 04/13/2006, 10:05 AM
Aquaduck Aquaduck is offline
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Nice job Ball! I've got an 802. Here we go again.....
  #998  
Old 04/13/2006, 10:06 AM
dhnguyen dhnguyen is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Frunkster
Can you do the math for me to please D?

My voltage suply is 220/240volts @ 50hz

Would be nice to see how they compare

& thats some nice work there Ball
220 X 50 / 2 = 5500
  #999  
Old 04/13/2006, 10:08 AM
dhnguyen dhnguyen is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by brians_224
RE: Ball's Shroud

Is there a limit to how short the shroud can be? (As long as it covers the prop )

I have the lutz mods - I've become disenchanted with their performance and size.

The shorter the wider and more dispursed the flow, the longer, the more focused and concentrated. This is why I make mine shorter.
  #1000  
Old 04/13/2006, 10:08 AM
JohnL JohnL is offline
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This thread was automatically split due to performance issues. You can find the rest of the thread here: http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=823609
 


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