connect spa flex to pvc?

1newfish · #1 01/04/2008, 07:26 PM

I would just like to know if I should use rain and shine by oatley to connect spa flex to pvc? also do I use purple primer first?

1newfish · #2 01/04/2008, 07:47 PM

please help

laf-reef · #3 01/04/2008, 08:22 PM

I connect spa flex to PVC with a PVC barb fitting. The spa flex will fit VERY tight on the barb fitting. I boil water and place the end of the spa flex in the boiling water to soften it up a bit then slide it onto the barb. I can add a photo if it'll help. No need for primer or glue.

ThaNgBOm321 · #4 01/04/2008, 09:37 PM

when i used a little piece of spa-flex on my return.. i just primed it and glued it into the fittings... ( 1'' 90 and a pipe extending thing.. ( people use them to repair broken pipe.. it's telescopes in and out .. sort of like those stand pipe thing on skimmers) no leaks that i seen..

YzGyz

FishTruck · #5 01/04/2008, 09:52 PM

I used purple primer and the Oatey flexible PVC cement available at Menards with good results.

andyco · #6 01/04/2008, 10:00 PM

I use clear primer.

I find it easier to work with.

Purple primer is so building inspectors know for sure you primed it. But, it can be messy.

I also use regular PVC cement.

poppin_fresh · #7 01/04/2008, 10:10 PM

They recommend that you use PVC cement for flexible pvc, but I have seen no issues with using regular cement and primer on flexible to regular.

Jetdrvr · #8 01/05/2008, 12:54 AM

I would definitley use the rain or shine cement on spa flex. It's what they say to use. Do you really want to take chance on it failing some day to save 2 bucks now?

MrSquid · #9 01/05/2008, 09:09 AM

You still glue it even if it's on barbs? My whole setup is barbed and ready to be plumbed once my skimmer gets here later today. I've got regular tubing waiting to go but now at the last minute I'm thinking spa flex might be a better choice.

If it has to be glued, any gluing options that DON'T stink? LOL! My wife's been really forgiving about a lot of stuff that I've been doing in our dining room lately - but there's no way I'd get away with gluing PVC in there.

GrandeGixxer · #10 01/05/2008, 09:23 AM

Why would you slip a barb inside of the spaflex? This stuff is made to be glued in place just like regular PVC. By putting a barb in, you are just making your inside diameter smaller and causing more restriction.

As for gluing in the house, I mark how everything needs to be glued and then glue it out in the garage. Sometimes I have to leave a couple of connections unglued, but it is a lot less than gluing all of it inside the house. Get a fan going to ventilate and open a window for a little while. Good luck, Joe.

MrSquid · #11 01/05/2008, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by GrandeGixxer
Why would you slip a barb inside of the spaflex? This stuff is made to be glued in place just like regular PVC. By putting a barb in, you are just making your inside diameter smaller and causing more restriction.

Because I've never used spa flex and didn't know that.

Quote:

Originally posted by GrandeGixxer
As for gluing in the house, I mark how everything needs to be glued and then glue it out in the garage. Sometimes I have to leave a couple of connections unglued, but it is a lot less than gluing all of it inside the house. Get a fan going to ventilate and open a window for a little while. Good luck, Joe.

Gluing in the garage is what I've done so far. But with all the connections, that's not feasible. (125g tank, plumbing manifold mounted to the stand, etc...) So I guess I'll have to make the tubing work.

GrandeGixxer · #12 01/05/2008, 09:35 AM

MrSquid, using Unions is a good way to make your plumbing modular so you can remove different sections without having to "cut into" other lines or to get around obstacles under or behind the tank.

GrandeGixxer · #13 01/05/2008, 09:36 AM

Also, for the convenience of the unions when you do have to take something apart, it is well worth the $3-$4 a piece for them. Also make sure to put ball valves in line with them where needed.

MrSquid · #14 01/05/2008, 09:40 AM

I did ball valves but not unions. I figured that I'd be able to just remove the tubing from the barb(s) if I needed to tear something apart. LOL

ThaNgBOm321 · #15 01/06/2008, 01:34 PM

thats what i do on my plumbing.. when i use braided stuff.. just disconnect at the barb... what i dont understand about people using spa-flex is why install the union when it isnt in need yet.. ( unless it's in a tight and hard to get to place ) imo .. it's just another place to leak.. if you need to disconnect later.. cut the pip then and glue it in .... but thats just me... ohh and ball valves from experience needs to be turn occassionally... they seize in place if left alone for a while...

YzGYz

eyebedam · #16 01/06/2008, 10:16 PM

I used purple primer & heavy duty pvc cement the clear kind. It has a green label. Ive had no problems with it thus far.

1newfish · #17 01/07/2008, 12:41 AM

Well I went ahead and used the purple primer and rain r shine. I have been fresh water testing for 24 hours, everthing looks great. Of course the treaded inlet on my dart pump has a very slow drip. I used teflon tape but still have a small drip. I'm talking 1 drip every 3-4 minutes.

What should I do to stop this?

Pull it out and retape, or put a small bead of silicone around it?

I figure with silicone it will stop the leak and I can always break the seal by unthreading it. Pulling it apart and rethreading would be more work. I do have unions and ball valves on it but just don't really want to do all of that.

What should I do?