DIY Auto-Top off with Solenoid

[tang_man_montreal]

neptune299,

Thanks for the lead on that solenoid... Looking at the specs, I wasn't able to conclude whether it was available with threaded ends like the mcmaster unit. I only saw pipe and compression fitting ends. Is that the only way it comes?

Do you have a pic of yours?

[dwall174]

Originally posted by neptune299
Does anyone know of an alternative AC float switch? I have glass sumps and I would like to avoid drilling them.

Here's a site I just found the other dayautotopoff.com They have hang on float switches so you won't need to drill the tank! They also have a Polypropylene Solenoid Valve for RO units! They don't say anything about the weted parts? But it might be worth looking into?

[tricky]

Aquatic Reef Systems has a 24VAC solenoid, all plastic inside. It is not listed on their website, but you could post in their sponsors forum or call them for more info. It has 1/4" female NPT fittings.

[neptune299]

[tang_man_montreal]

dwall174,
The solenoid at autotopoff.com is the same Mcmaster solenoid. It has brass parts inside.

Here's another solenoid that has wetted parts available at AQUATEC! http://www.purewater4u.com/store/Aquatec.shtml

WETTED MATERIALS OF CONSTRUCTION: Polypropylene, EPDM, 300 and 400 Series Stainless Steel.

POWER REQUIREMENTS: ESO 460: 24 VAC, 50/60 Hz, 150 mA; ESO DC-100: 24 VAC or VDC, 120 mA

INLET PRESSURE/ORIFICE: ESO 460: 45 psi max. with .093" dia. orifice; ESO 460: 100 psi max. with .062" dia. orifice; ESO DC-100: 100 psi max. with .093" dia. orifice.

FITTINGS: 1/4" black inlet and 1/4" white outlet Jaco fittings as standard. 1/4" gray John Guest fittings optionally available at slight cost premium.

And at $25, it's great!

[tang_man_montreal]

Thanks Neptune299 for the pics!
If I can't find that one locally, I will go with the Aquatec one.

[dwall174]

Originally posted by tang_man_montreal
dwall174,
The solenoid at autotopoff.com is the same Mcmaster solenoid. It has brass parts inside.

Thanks thats what I figured also being that it was only $35.00

Originally posted by tricky
Aquatic Reef Systems has a 24VAC solenoid, all plastic inside.

Thanks I will check that out!

[Zephrant]

Thanks for the links all- Those look great.

Zeph

[RicoJ]

neptune299 where did you get your solenoid from? How do you provide electricity to it?

[neptune299]

Go to Asco's website and see who the nearest dealer is. They take 120v.

[baja_hammer2003]

has anyone used a true 316 stainless steel solenoid with stainless wetted parts with viton seals? just wondering

[Old Yeller Tang]

I was going to post in this thread to see if anybody is still using this setup. Mine is still working great for more than 2yrs!

[cali_reef]

Originally posted by Old Yeller Tang
I was going to post in this thread to see if anybody is still using this setup. Mine is still working great for more than 2yrs!

Mine too..

[tang_man_montreal]

Me three..

[clkohly]

Why would the brass parts matter? The solenoid should go before that RO/DI unit and thus have all the copper filter out. Remember what all your houses pipes are made of.

[tang_man_montreal]

Originally posted by clkohly
Why would the brass parts matter? The solenoid should go before that RO/DI unit and thus have all the copper filter out. Remember what all your houses pipes are made of.

Cuz some people wanted to place it after the RO/DI unit, inline with their Kalk reactors and such.

[Lunchbucket]

mine still works like a charm

Lunchbucket

[brucetp]

Where's a good place to buy the Solenoid?

[Zephrant]

My float switch eventually got enough gunk on it that it jams, so I bypassed it to go direct to the Kent Float Valve for now (Not currently using a Kalk reactor, Alk. is plenty high enough already).

The brass seams to be OK if it is upstream of a Kalk reactor, as the KR will precipitate out any copper that might dissolve. Remember that RO/DI water is corrosive, and will pull copper from brass where normal water (in your house pipes) will not.

But it's nothing to panic over- I used the solenoid for years, and there is no visible pitting or degradation of the copper part, so I suspect the is no reason to be concerned about that small amount of brass in the system.

Zeph

[BeanAnimal]

After extensive research I have not found a single solenoid valve that is all plastic. All have wetted metal parts (even those that are listed as polypro or plastic valves). Most have a copper shading coils even if the rest of the valve is plastic.

The only way to avoid the metal is to use a pinch valve. They are ~100$ to start. The next problem becomes finding pinchable tubing that has a ~00 P.S.I.G rating and can still be pinched.

Bean

[dwall174]

Originally posted by BeanAnimal
After extensive research I have not found a single solenoid valve that is all plastic.

Hayward Makes them!
They only start at about $200

[BeanAnimal]

I should have stated "within reasonable cost"

They also do not list the wetted parts and I would be skeptical untill I had the thing apart and could see for myself. They are likely all plastic at that price though.

Bean

[Mr_Quality]

The brass would be more likely to dissolve & leach metals in tap or purified water than in an alkaline kalk solution. IMO, the low pH caused by absorption of CO2 into an unbuffered water stream would be the thing to avoid.

Mine has been working great for > 2 years, except that I did need to replace the solenoid once because of Ca ppt build-up causing a steady drip through it.

[uscgbeachbum]

Has anyone used the SOV linked by tang_man_montreal? My SOV pooped the bed the other night when my tank overflowed.

[BeanAnimal]

I got the valve from purewater4u. It's junk and they will not take it back. Has a copper wetted coil, and requires a pressure differential to seal, none of whic are listed specs.

Bean