WOW!!! My endcap just caught on fire - Page 18

mikeo1210 · #**426** 06/28/2005, 07:03 PM

Mine did this the other day after I installed them. Noticed the endcap has to be tight as hell around the bulb or this can easily happen. The bulbs were vho. Don't know that T5s are any different. I'll be ditching flourescents soon.

Frick-n-Frags · #**427** 06/28/2005, 07:31 PM

jeez has it been that long already????/

quote:
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Originally posted by Geepers Creepers
Itâ€™s not the end caps or IceCap check the bulbs. I had the same instance of a melted and burnt end cap. The burn mark was at the pin on the end cap it was black, it didnâ€™t catch fire. The end cap was making perfect connection with the pin on the bulb. The pin on the bulb was very slightly loose, almost unnoticeable. I clipped on a meter to the pins and lightly wiggled the pins and the resistance was all over the place. It was like this with more than one bulb. Once soldered the resistance was perfect, 0.7 to 0.8 ohm. Iâ€™m not sure if a problem with a bulb's pin can actually cause a fire hazzard and I'm not pointing fingers at particular bulb manufactures.

IceCap end caps are perfectly sealed, no moisture can get in and they are very safe if installed properly.

I just replaced my VHOs. When I checked the bulbs before I soldered them the resistance was high. Or some times showing an open, this would be a problem. This is with brand-new bulbs! After soldering all the pins, all the bulbs were 0.7 to 0.8. has anyone else seen this problem?
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It doesn't matter what heats up, the problem is that the plastic endcaps catch fire even if it wasn't their fault directly. If there was nothing flammable, the whole shebang could sit there glowing cherry red and nothing would happen. But, if soldering down the pins does prevent the hot spot, then the chances of fire are reduced(but not gone like by having zero flammable stuff on the ends of the bulbs)

dcoufal · #**428** 06/28/2005, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Frick-n-Frags
jeez has it been that long already????/

Yep... Any problems since for you? Are you still using the hard-wired connections?

Quote:

It doesn't matter what heats up, the problem is that the plastic endcaps catch fire even if it wasn't their fault directly. If there was nothing flammable, the whole shebang could sit there glowing cherry red and nothing would happen. But, if soldering down the pins does prevent the hot spot, then the chances of fire are reduced(but not gone like by having zero flammable stuff on the ends of the bulbs)

Agreed. But, since no mfr. is getting off their backsides to help out on this matter.....

Dwain

Frick-n-Frags · #**429** 06/29/2005, 05:52 AM

Yes, hard-wired all the way since that fateful day. And nothing has corroded either being exposed to salt fumes(there is not much copper exposed however). The bulbs also run much cooler having nothing enclosing the ends.

CJ · #**430** 06/29/2005, 08:01 PM

If the bulbs run cooler, would that extend their useful life or would spectrum shift still happen at about the same time? Does anybody know?

Saltz Creep · #**431** 06/29/2005, 08:52 PM

For over a year I've been using 6 pairs of regular NO endcaps I got from the Home Despot rated at 600W for my VHOs with no meltdowns. Those IceCap endcaps are obviously overrated and overpriced.

Saltz Creep ducks to avoid rotten tomato thrown at him

melev · #**432** 06/29/2005, 09:46 PM

Satlz, you might edit your post. I think you meant 6500K, not 600W, right?

Saltz Creep · #**433** 06/29/2005, 09:49 PM

Marc, the endcaps are rated for up to 600 watts of current. Of course there is no such VHO bulb, but it's good to know the endcaps can take it.

melev · #**434** 06/29/2005, 10:02 PM

Oh, okay. I thought it was a typo in your mad dash to avoid being pelted with aiptasia-covered stones.

Snoopdog · #**435** 06/29/2005, 10:44 PM

I had some power compact endcaps from AHSupply do a meltdown. I think it was from salt creep. I now use silicone on the endcaps before I snap a bulb in.

I just squirt some of the clear silicone caulk on the bulb, and some on the endcap the clip them together. I have not had any problems since.

smoknreefrs · #**436** 08/07/2005, 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by wiliiam
crazy man! Can you tell what caused it. Those things are put together real good.

the icecap overdrives the bulbs....key word here "over"...the icecap ballast are great, but they put out a lot more wattage than the bulbs were oringinally made for, therefore making them run hotter and making them more unstable....the same thing happens when people overdirve MH with the magnetic ballast....bulbs explode, glass fragments everywhere, fires etc....that murrphy for yah

melev · #**437** 08/07/2005, 02:59 PM

Fricks n Frags, would you be so kind as to post images of your current set up with the wired bulbs, and how they are affixed to your canopy? I've been wanting to ask, and now that this thread has been revived...

Obi-dad · #**438** 08/07/2005, 03:21 PM

I hard-wired my T5s by using female Molex pins (the size in PC power connectors) pushed onto the bulb pins covered by heat shrink tubing. Then I put silicone between the pins so they can't short out by salt creep. As Frick says, not only safe but they run cooler with no endcaps to get in the way of airflow.

Frick-n-Frags · #**439** 08/08/2005, 12:32 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by melev
Fricks n Frags, would you be so kind as to post images of your current set up with the wired bulbs, and how they are affixed to your canopy? I've been wanting to ask, and now that this thread has been revived...

Well, there is no canopy for starters. I have some bulbs resting on oak strips (slightly in from the ends) across the tank top to keep them very close to the water and I also have some suspended by wire loops from pieces of wood attached to my high-backed stands.

The whole deal is very open and runs cooler than in a canopy. I have face boards that I put on for company that only block the tops of the tanks from viewing but they remain totally open. (kind of makes like a mickey mouse in-wall deal) And with the fan, the whole tank area gets its air turned pretty well. I can handle the bulbs barehanded as they are only warm.

I have certain advantages with the ghetto basement setup. Actually, I will eventually make a super-stand which will hold 3 4' tanks (14' long total) with an airtunnel across the top of the whole deal creating a several foot high canopy area between the tanks and the ceiling. I'm going to install an exhaust fan system right out the basement window behind the tanks (picture the hoods in a restaraunt kitchen regarding functionality)

I have had no problems since I said screw it and soldered every last bulb and I really don't anticipate any future problems. Call me a simpleton, but if nothing near the ends is flammable, it can't burn.

I'm still meditating on how I'm going to set up the light/ventilation on my 75 which will be a separate non-ghetto SPS tank. But that one will also have MH on it so I have to do something really cool (

)

melev · #**440** 08/08/2005, 01:45 AM

Would you please take a picture and post how you've got the ends wired and coated?

Frick-n-Frags · #**441** 08/08/2005, 08:59 AM

Right now I have my camera loaned out to my folks. But I know I have a pic of the end of a spent bulb that was soldered somewhere..... I could have sworn it was posted somewhere in this thread, but I guess not. It isn't on my domain anymore either so I'll have to search for it. Do you remember the pic with the baby blue shrink tubing on the two solder connections?

If I can't find the pic, I just make 6" pigtails from like 14AWG lamp cord (stranded solders more easily than solid) and then shrink tube the connections. I just tack the wire parallel to the pins, not trying to twist the wire around the pins and I don't spare the solder. Then I just wire-nut the pigtails to the ballast wires.

I can't store made up bulbs in my bulb boxes anymore

This last batch of bulbs I didn't even shrink tube and they are fine so I'll probably skip that from now on too. Probably just a smear of silicon sealer on the solder joint (and more importantly any exposed copper) would be fine.

It is actually quite difficult to touch the bit of bare connection by the pins, and you would have to touch both pins to get zapped

wbeavers · #**442** 08/23/2005, 08:12 PM

Here is a thread I posted on endcap fire prevention. Just a quick once over weekly will help you identify potential problems.

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=655081

Aquariust · #**443** 08/23/2005, 10:10 PM

i've had 2 power compact end caps do that to me

wrassie86 · #**444** 08/23/2005, 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Snoopdog
I had some power compact endcaps from AHSupply do a meltdown. I think it was from salt creep. I now use silicone on the endcaps before I snap a bulb in.

I just squirt some of the clear silicone caulk on the bulb, and some on the endcap the clip them together. I have not had any problems since.

I had the same thing happen a few years ago with my 96w PC end caps from AHSupply.But i think it was more due to ark from not being pushed on enough.either way they were hard wired after that.
Also after reading this thread i think i will i will hard wire my VHO also.