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  #51  
Old 12/04/2007, 12:12 PM
capn_hylinur capn_hylinur is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by WarrenAmy&Maddy
hey Capn
what have you done since w/ your filtration???

have you added the mud/mangroves ?

your tank looks great!... and after seeing your fuge (once or twice ) it was nice to finally get to see your display!

regards

the second fuge was an intention for over the holidays but am a little wary on the use of the plastic totes after that last post?

it has also crossed my mind to get a nice plexi or glass 90 gal fuge/sump instead
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  #52  
Old 12/04/2007, 12:22 PM
capn_hylinur capn_hylinur is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by WarrenAmy&Maddy
speaking of au natural
does anyone know about setting up a system el natural w/ multiple tanks attached and no skimmer or pumps - heard this mentioned in one of calfos books - may have been him setting it up or had it already had it set up -

anyone know how would this/could this be done ?



regards
Warrren--if you look at my sump system(yeah again)
If I lower the sump to a bottom shelf and place another refugium where the sump is now---IMO I won't need the skimmer anymore.

The water will first enter the mud refugium--then by gravity overflow into the sump/live rock---then return to the tank.
entering the sump will also be the gravity feed from the other refugium(for the reason of adding inverts etc to the main tank)

I think you are basically setup now--with the 50gal tank underneath the ninety--I would be tempted to add some mud and mangroves to that one.
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  #53  
Old 12/04/2007, 12:34 PM
capn_hylinur capn_hylinur is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by sabbath
I would like to know this one as well. I have read posts in the filtration forums. That you need larger live rock to break down nitrates. That rubble will not do it. You need the low oxygen area that is deeper into the rock.
Sorry for this answer is so long in coming---

not necessarily IMO----the rock rubble actually creates a larger surface area.
The rubble in a fuge functions more as a habitat for certain kinds of inverts that you are trying to raise for the main tank.

As far as filtration goes from the refugium chaeto algae will absorb phosphates and nitrates. But you must harvest the chaeto to remove the nitrates and phosphates from the water column otherwise when the chaeto dies they are released back into the water column
This requires an increased flow rate through the refugium

If you are trying to great a larger and more diverse amt of zooplankton then you need to reduce the flow through the refugium to about 1/10 of the main flow.

Live rock, rubble requires less flow to give the bacteria more time to work on the water column
Therefore live rock and rubble are best put in the sump --in a refugium there effeciency in the nitrogen cycle is greatly reduced--either by too much flow or not enough flow/exposure to more of the water column
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  #54  
Old 12/04/2007, 12:41 PM
capn_hylinur capn_hylinur is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by edwar050
I know exactly where your coming from. I am almost overskimming my 120 with a modified octopus skimmer. I need to start dosing low ammounts of mag and iodine as well as bump up water changes. I also have a couple of mangroves and have been fairly happy with them though there growth rate sucks.
the quickest way to stop overskimming--IMO and I am defining overskimming as being counterproductive to invertebrate refugiums by removing inverts, useful bacteria as fast as they are produced----

is to turn down the rate of flow through the sump/skimmer area
5 x's turnover per hour--this way not as much water will pass through the skimmer--the water that does is well skimmed however.
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  #55  
Old 12/04/2007, 01:28 PM
webbstock webbstock is offline
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Very cool thread...some interesting ideas out there.


Quote:
I used to meditate on an archimedes screw (NO that's not a new mixed drink ) to fill a surge bucket in a way to not run everything through an impeller, then cascade the multiple tanks, so each overflows the next

Another option would be to use a diaphragm pump. These pumps can self prime, are highly efficient and can move lots of water. Best of all these pumps are low shear, so lots of pods etc. can safely pass through the pump. The one question that I have is if the pumps are "safe" for aquaria use as in the surfaces that contact the SW are inert.

An example of a pump can be found at Pump or Pump2
  #56  
Old 12/04/2007, 01:33 PM
capn_hylinur capn_hylinur is offline
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aah---a mangrove thread:

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...9#post11312349
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  #57  
Old 12/04/2007, 01:59 PM
capn_hylinur capn_hylinur is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by webbstock
Very cool thread...some interesting ideas out there.

Another option would be to use a diaphragm pump. These pumps can self prime, are highly efficient and can move lots of water. Best of all these pumps are low shear, so lots of pods etc. can safely pass through the pump. The one question that I have is if the pumps are "safe" for aquaria use as in the surfaces that contact the SW are inert.

An example of a pump can be found at Pump or Pump2
I am not sure what you mean by inert ?

Here is another link to low wattage high performance pumps:
http://www.coralreefsupply.com/index...arium=pumps_cl


I actually have mine still from when my sump was under the tank and not in the basement.
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  #58  
Old 12/04/2007, 03:47 PM
webbstock webbstock is offline
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By inert, I mean one that doesn't have brass parts that contact the SW so as not leach metals into the tank (or chemicals etc.)

The coralife pump is a centrifugal pump, which means it has an impeller which can "chop" things up. Diaphragm pumps use a bellows like system to move water via positive displacement, which wouldn't grind up your pods etc. However there is a slight surging effect from single bellow pumps.
This is an example of an air-driven diaphragm pump:
Single

This is a double bellows and no surging

Double
  #59  
Old 12/04/2007, 06:16 PM
usefulidiot213 usefulidiot213 is offline
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I always wondered about using those HOB fuges with LR and DSB for pod production. Then use your sump fuge for Nit removable. That way you can have one fuge with low flow for pods, and one with high flow for filtration...
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  #60  
Old 01/04/2008, 02:06 PM
geoxman geoxman is offline
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How is the system coming along?
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  #61  
Old 01/04/2008, 02:51 PM
scottnichols scottnichols is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Frick-n-Frags
I used to meditate on an archimedes screw (NO that's not a new mixed drink ) to fill a surge bucket in a way to not run everything through an impeller, then cascade the multiple tanks, so each overflows the next

I'm building an "in-wall" tank that is going to use an archimedes screw and "Carlson" surge device. Luckily, I'm putting the filtration system in a dedicated fish room behind the tank because to get four feet of lift, I needed to make the screw 10 feet long! I put the pump together first and tested it with my cordless driver as a temporary motor to make sure it worked. I got about 4000 GPH out of it in a test run, but it maxed out the little motor. I have a permanent gear motor ordered for it and have started work on the tank. I had a small 55 gallon reef tank from 1990 to 1995, but took it down to move, and one thing after another kept me from getting back into the hobby. I'm playing catch up now, and would appreciate any advice you could give regarding skimmerless/non-centrifical pump systems
  #62  
Old 01/04/2008, 08:24 PM
geoxman geoxman is offline
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bump as I would also be interested
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  #63  
Old 01/04/2008, 08:56 PM
capn_hylinur capn_hylinur is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by webbstock
By inert, I mean one that doesn't have brass parts that contact the SW so as not leach metals into the tank (or chemicals etc.)

The coralife pump is a centrifugal pump, which means it has an impeller which can "chop" things up. Diaphragm pumps use a bellows like system to move water via positive displacement, which wouldn't grind up your pods etc. However there is a slight surging effect from single bellow pumps.
This is an example of an air-driven diaphragm pump:
Single

This is a double bellows and no surging

Double
are these pumps ok to use with salt water?

we discussed the idea of pods etc being chopped up by the impellers--the consensus was that they wouldn't be.
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  #64  
Old 01/05/2008, 09:54 AM
geoxman geoxman is offline
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I do not see why they would not suffice in SW. From what I am reading? There are no impellers so it would seem very pod and phyto friendly. Does any one else have an input on these pumps?
The diagram for the double is very interesting when watching it work.
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  #65  
Old 01/06/2008, 11:31 PM
capn_hylinur capn_hylinur is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by geoxman
I do not see why they would not suffice in SW. From what I am reading? There are no impellers so it would seem very pod and phyto friendly. Does any one else have an input on these pumps?
The diagram for the double is very interesting when watching it work.
perhaps you should re post in the hardware section and start a thread on it ?
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  #66  
Old 01/12/2008, 01:05 AM
erikages erikages is offline
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Hi, all.



I'm setting up a new refugium (20 gals). I'm running a mature tank (7 years) with a deep sand bed and stable, healthy chemistry.



Here's my question: should I keep this new tank off line (e.g. not being fed and draining into the main system) until it goes through nitrication cycle. Will it go through a cycle like this if fed by 120 gals of established reef and water flow?



I'll be placing established live rock and a new bag of "live" agragonite sand into the refugium and plan to let it all settle out before planting it and setting up some algae screens.



So: recommendations. Let it sit pretty and stinky before linking in, or will the established tank manage the new load and any nitrification cycle that occurrs?



Also, any recommendations on lighting? I plan to do reverse daylight (as I do with my sump).



Thanks for any advice you might have!



Erik
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