Float Switch Question

Reefugee · #1 02/19/2006, 05:37 PM

Hello All,

I have a brute garbage can that I used as my RODI reservoir. About once a week, I have to turn on the RODI system and fill up the garbage can. Unfortunately - I often forget to turn it off until a day or two later, and end up flooding my garage. I am thinking about putting a float switch into the garbage can to auto turn off the water.

I checked MarineDepot, and they have several different one. One is a Kent float switch, and the other is a kit. I don't think I need the kit. Will this work?

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewIt...product=KM1675

The other one is a kit.
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewIt...product=KM1651

If anyone else has any other suggestion, I am open.

Thanks
Minh

TotalKhaos · #2 02/19/2006, 05:46 PM

No help on the float switch Q from me...

All I can offer is Understanding and sympathy for being forgetful. I flooded my kitchen last week. I left my RODI dripping in a 20g container and went to bed - OOPS - Next Morning I step into my kitchen, Slip and Land on My Butt in an Inch of water covering the entire floor.

I as well Could use guidance in choosing a float switch. LOL

As far as other suggestions - Every time you turn the RO/DI on Put a Note On the Fridge or somewhere else you would notice regularly saying "The WATER is ON!!!" in block letters. You wont miss it.

H20Sidhe · #3 02/19/2006, 05:51 PM

Minh,

I've been looking at this one from Fish Bowl Innovations in San Jose (unfortunately their site is down right now & the only link I can give you is to their eBay store)

http://cgi.ebay.com/Float-switch-w-s...QQcmdZViewItem

I haven't done quite enough electrical work to know how to do the relay or optoisolator that they recommend for AC current.

Any electricians out there?

I was looking for you at the meeting 'cause I wanted to introduce myself [it was interesting for me to be 'looking for' someone when I've never seen you - only pics here on this forum]!

Sherie

Reefugee · #4 02/19/2006, 06:20 PM

Sherie,

I personally wouldn't use that single float switch. The float switch is exposed - which means that something like a snail can get caught in it and the switch get caught in a closed position, you're going to have an overflowed house. :P

I have the same switch - but it's mounted in a a PVC pipe. I drilled holes in the PVC pipe so that water can get in, but nothing else. I also use two switches. The first switch is in the "normal open" position when the water is at right level (or higher). When the water level gets to low, it closes, this activating a pump that fills my sump with topoff water. The second switch (normally closed) is a safety switch. If for some reason the first switch gets stuck in a closed position, the water will rise continue to rise until it hits the second switch. When the water hits the second switch, the switch turns into an open position - thus cutting power to the pump. It's a pretty easy design and it works well.

Honestly - I did a pretty crappy job of putting topoff system together. If I were to redo it, I would have not soldiered the relay to the wire. If you need help making a relay box - let me know. It's pretty simple.

BTW - $12 is a little expensive for those switches. Check out the site below. It's only $6. They also have some pretty good pictures. Also - I wouldn't use a 9 volt battery.

http://www.floatswitches.net/

Minh

H20Sidhe · #5 02/19/2006, 06:28 PM

So does this mean that you now need a totally different kind of float switch for your RODI reservoir? I thought the $6 one would work!

Sherie

Reefugee · #6 02/19/2006, 06:31 PM

Yep - I need a totally different float switch. Technically - what I am looking for is a float valve - not a float switch. :P

H20Sidhe · #7 02/19/2006, 06:37 PM

toilet type?

Reefugee · #8 02/19/2006, 07:02 PM

I have thought about float valve used in toilets - but I think many of them contain metal parts. :P

Quote:

Originally posted by H20Sidhe
toilet type?

thereefgeek · #9 02/19/2006, 07:08 PM

Hey Minh, you'll need the 2nd one to completely shut off the RO/DI unit after the Brute fills up. The little white thing is a pressure relief bypass valve so when the black float raises it cuts the feed to the RO membrane. It goes on the input side of the RO unit if I'm not mistaken, and you can run as long a tube to the garbage can as you need.

Reefugee · #10 02/19/2006, 07:21 PM

Rich,

That doesn't make sense to me. I currently cut off my water by a little valve at the end of the line. I will send you some pictures later and see what you think.

Minh

CaliforniaDreamer · #11 02/19/2006, 10:11 PM

Hi Minh, it sounds like you are setting up much like my setup. I have a 50 gal brute and have the Kent float switch and it works perfectly. My RO/DI unit came with a pressure turnoff switch so all I needed was the Kent switch. Drilled a small hole in the brute near the top (about 3 inches down) installed the Kent switch through the hole and attached the tube from the RO/DI unit to the float switch and turned on the input water. I have used it for over a year with no problems. BTW you can tell if your unit has a pressure switch by turning off the output valve and in a few minutes the drain line from the RO/DI unit should stop draining. I think most units come with such a switch. I too use to flood my workshop forgetting to turn off the output switch.

Reefugee · #12 02/19/2006, 10:18 PM

CaliforniaDream,

Thanks for the info. I am sure mine come with a pressure turnoff switch.

I will order the float valve tomorrow.

Minh

Sparkss · #13 02/21/2006, 04:05 PM

without the pressure shutoff switch you will eventually damage your RO/DI unit by shutting it off at the end like that. I would double check that your unit has that.

I honestly didn't know any RO/DIs that came with the valve built in. Where did you get yours and what was the make/model CaliforniaDreamer ?

BoomerD · #14 02/21/2006, 08:12 PM

If your unit doesn't have that pressure cut-off switch, (and most DO NOT) then all you are doing is stopping the flow of product water. You will usually continue to run water thru the filters, and out the waste side of the unit, which, if you pay for water other than monthly, can add up over time, and is considered hard on the membrane to be pressured up, with no flow thru it.
There are a lot of good options out there for this. Spectrapure sells perhaps the best one, with good solid engineering behind it, and other RO shops can sell you one as well.
If you don't relish wet socks, spend a bit, and get a good reliable solution, rather than cheaping out to save a buck...

CaliforniaDreamer · #15 02/21/2006, 08:22 PM

I got mine on ebay from filter direct model R06100DINT. When I purchased it (05/24/2004) it came with a small valve for turning the output on and off. They advised that it was fine to leave the unit input water on when the output was turned off and that it had a automatic shut off switch. One of the options allows for the unit to supply an undersink tank. I have been very happy with the unit, still getting output a 0 tds. My input water is from a well (no chlorine) measures between 160 and 180 tds. When we had it tested about 10 years ago it was mostly Ca and Mg carbonates and some iron.

-- EDIT -- BTW my waste output does shut off after about 20 seconds after the filtered RO/DO output is shutoff.

-- Another Edit --

I looked up my paperwork and I didn't get it via ebay. The link for the company is HERE . As I said before I am very happy with the unit, 6 stage - 100 gpd (it takes about 18 hours to fill my 50 gal brute).

rustybucket145 · #16 02/23/2006, 09:37 AM

Why not apply the float valve to the line feeding the RO/DI Unit? From the pics it looks like the float valve has fittings that could be tied directly into a water line.

thereefgeek · #17 02/23/2006, 10:49 AM

Here's a link to what it does and why you need one:
http://theh2oguru.zoovy.com/category/z.7/