diy kalk reactor or resevoir

[rigleautomotive]

i am looking into puting together a less trouble some system for kalk addition.i currently use a IO bucket with a float valve from rodi connected to a reef filler doser.i used to have a power head in the bottom mixing twice a day,but felt i was adding kalk solid,so i went low tech and just stir by hand once a day while doser is off.i am looking for suggestions to simplify and automate this to be a bit more self reliant.or should i build a reactor and add top off thru it. thanks in advance, Dan

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

IMO, the best system involves dosing limewater from a still reservoir using a float switch in the tank sump controlling a dosing pump of some sort. I use a Reef filler as the pump. I use an 88 gallon container (two trash cans connected) and do not stir except when I add more water and lime.

[rigleautomotive]

wow thats service randy,quick too,what is a dependable float switch.i have a couple kent float valves.would these be a good choise or is there a better one. thanks Dan

[hyperfocal]

Originally posted by Randy Holmes-Farley
IMO, the best system involves dosing limewater from a still reservoir using a float switch in the tank sump controlling a dosing pump of some sort. I use a Reef filler as the pump. I use an 88 gallon container (two trash cans connected) and do not stir except when I add more water and lime.

That's verrrrry interesting, Randy. I'm about to DIY a kalk reactor and was planning on using a Maxijet 400 for stirring. Is there something special about your setup that makes stirring unnecessary, or ...? I've read that no stirring leads to clumpy lime hockey pucks.

If I can skip the recirc, I can skip the timers on my recirc and ATO -- thus saving about seventy-five bucks.

[Engine 7]

When adding water daily or every couple days the water and powder gets stirred. I have done it this way in the past and it works just as well as buying a $300.00 kalk reactor. If you have a top-off system and a RO/DI reservoir, you are in business.

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

If you use a good sized reservoir for limewater, it is best to not stir it. It stays potent as long as you want it to be (weeks) when not stirring. Obviously, it needs stirring when the batch is first made up. As mentioned, new addition of water means more stirring, if you do it that way.

A reactor, OTOH, must have stirring as it continually send in fresh water that requires more dissolution.


I really like these float switches that I've used for more than 10 years (LV-1201):

http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?r...200&Nav=grek12

[hyperfocal]

Ahhh, I see. Thanks.

[rigleautomotive]

thanks randy,the switch is inert and ok to mount directly in the sump,correct.and if i want to use this system on two seperate systems can i use a reef filler with 2 pumps or two seperate single reef fillers. thanks Dan

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

The switch above mounts through a bulkhead through the side of the sump, so if you cannot do that, it isn't a good choice. My sump is a trash can, so I just cut out a hole for it.

That switch can handle up to 15 amps, so you can drive whatever you need with it. A second one I have controls my two Iwaki return pumps.

[rigleautomotive]

i can drill my sumps, no problem there.so to do two seperate systems,i will need 2 float switches and two reef filler dosers.does that sound correct.my display and frag system is not connected. thanks Dan

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

If you have two different sumps, then yes, you'll need two float switches controlling two different dosing pumps.

[rigleautomotive]

beautiful,i now have a working plan.your the best.thank you.

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

You're welcome.

Good luck.

[StrategicReef]

I understand the concept Randy, since my reservoir is 5 gallon bucket and can I just set the siphon hose a bit off the bottom (to doser pump) and throw excess powder in, and then set a powerhead to run a couple minutes every few hours with a digital timer? That way I just add water to the reservoir needed and powder every once in a while. (like a kalk reactor?)

The other option is I make the lime water in another bucket and add to the reservoir, (siphon out the clear saturated lime water). This will last me for days but I feel it is losing effectiveness everytime I disturb the reservoir.

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I'd personally only stir it when you add more water. Stirring it between water additions only resuspends impurities that you probably would be better off not dosing.


The other option is I make the lime water in another bucket and add to the reservoir, (siphon out the clear saturated lime water). This will last me for days but I feel it is losing effectiveness everytime I disturb the reservoir.

People are overly concerned about that, IMO. The loss in potency is likely much smaller than the reduced potency that folks get using reactors that do not make saturated limewater.

This article has more:

The Degradation of Limewater (Kalkwasser) in Air
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...ture/index.php

[StrategicReef]

I use this right now to make the lime water but plan to upgrade to a 5 gallon bucket and a bulkhead raised off the bottom and PVC ball valve, add kalk powder and stir with a stick, dispense after 8 hours.

[bdare]

I could be wrong, but I think people are confused about the differnce in dosing Kalk when using a resivor like a bucket and reactor.

When kalk is dosed from a bucket, you mix it to saturation, cover it and leave it alone. You don't want to stir it because when the kalk comes in contact with the air, it loses it's effectiveness. Keep in mind you only want to dose the clear portion in the middle. Leave out the crust on top and the chunks on the bottom.

Kalk stirriers / reactors on the other hand are sealed containers. They hold MUCH more kalk than can be dissolved in the small container of water they hold. The reason they are stirred is because as the saturated solution they contain is dosed to the system fresh water is being added in it's place. The stirring is simply to bring the kalk back to saturation.

I hope this helps...

[Engine 7]

But actually part of the reason the discussion is about open reservoirs is that you can use them as a way to get kalk into the tank without loosing any effectiveness. Randy linked one of his articles that proves that effectivness doesn't really drop when limewater is exposed to air.

[bdare]

Originally posted by Engine 7
But actually part of the reason the discussion is about open reservoirs is that you can use them as a way to get kalk into the tank without loosing any effectiveness. Randy linked one of his articles that proves that effectivness doesn't really drop when limewater is exposed to air.

I'm not sure about that...

Depending on how the resivor is setup it can keep it's effectiveness longer, but it's definitely not infinate. By airating the limewater or stirring it you are reducing the effectiveness because CO2 is introduced.

I've read this article a few times... Please see the graph with the airated container vs. the still one. If the container is STILL the effectiveness is more constant that one that is stirred. That's all I'm saying...

Ben

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Yes, stirring or aerating limewater will deplete it rapidly. If you need to stir frequently to get lime to dissolve (like in a reactor), you would want it closed.

[Engine 7]

But I thaught you said that air wont degrade the limewater. I didnt mean stirring it.

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

No, I didn't day that, at least I didn't intend to. A still reservoir will not degrade too fast to be used. A stirred one in air will. I show both cases in the article.

[Engine 7]

Gotcha Thanks a lot for clearing that up Randy. I need to re-read that article.

[StrategicReef]

so would making the limewater in another bucket and then draining it into the reservoir make it loose effectiveness too much? I guess the whole body of lime water coming out of the drain is exposed to alot of air?

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

One transfer is likely fine. It takes substantial time for CO2 to enter the water.