anyone have a water pressure gauge for RO?

[Piazzon12]

I finally purchased an 100GPD RO/DI Unit, but I feel like it has poor performance. I'm wondering if my house has poor water pressure, and wanted to borrow a meeter if anyone happens to have one.

[Dave VG]

Which one did you get Adam?

[Piazzon12]

purewaterclub*com 100GPD 6 stage, 0 ppm (PW-22-37). Actually bought it through e-bay because it's cheaper, but it's the same place.

Can a pressure gauge be purchased locally at Lowes or something?

[03Mach]

Thats the same one I have. What type of performance are you getting?

I would think you should be able to pick an inline gauge up from any of the big hardware stores. If not, you could try a place like Tri-Bros Supply. The hardest part will be figuring out all the adapters you will need to get it to fit! I had a heck of a time getting mine all hooked up... So many different fittings were needed to hook it up for my needs.

[Piazzon12]

I only got about ~15 gallons in 10-12 hours...

[Blugobi]

How long have you had it running? Most membranes need about 24-36 hours to reach peak perfomance. I have 75gpd unit and my water pressure is about 45psi and it makes about 50-55 gal in 24 hours.

[Piazzon12]

ok thanks, I'll try to pick up a pressure gauge tonight, and will turn it back on to let it run to see if things improve... the amount a waste water just drives me crazy!

[stressed damsel]

Just a little heads up on membranes. A 100 GPD membrane has a rejection rate of 90% While a 75 GPD has a rate of 98% . So a 75 GPD is a better choice IMO. Think of it this way if you have water comming in at 200 PPM before the membrane a 100 GPD will give you 20 PPM after the membrane while a 75 GPD will give you 4PPM Just something to think about. You can always change the membrane to a lower GPD but u also need to add a flow restrictor

[Dave VG]

The colder the water temp the less they produce.

[03Mach]

Originally posted by Dave VG
The colder the water temp the less they produce.

That was the next thing I was going to say. Over the summer I got about 1 gallon every 10min. Now it takes about 14 min to get a gallon. I have read if your water is too cold you can buy like 25' of line and coil it up in a bucket of water with a heater in it and use that as the supply line. Doing this will allow the water to heat up, thus causing a more productive filter.

[stressed damsel]

Though water temp does affect productivity it still does nothing when it comes to the output of TDS in the water...

[Piazzon12]

FYI according to them,
Water Purity Reference:
(1.)Tap or well water(300 PPM) ---> (2.)After RO system(20 PPM) ---> (3.)After DI filter(0 PPM)

[stressed damsel]

Who is that info from the manufacture? I believe what my meter tells me not what a manufacture does...

[03Mach]

Your concern is with output quantity not quality correct? You get 0ppm with yours? I can't seem to get mine to 0 it's at about 2-3.

[stressed damsel]

Originally posted by 03Mach
Your concern is with output quantity not quality correct? You get 0ppm with yours? I can't seem to get mine to 0 it's at about 2-3.

I get 0 PPM
u should be concerned with quality not quanity.
I run 2 10" canisters with DI material also

[Piazzon12]

at the moment, I'm concerned with quantity... later I will be concerned with quality.
Right now anythings better than the raw tapwater (w/ startright conditioner) that I've been using for the last 1.5yrs. I've started seeing high phosphate levels which is why I went RO/DI.

[Dave VG]

Originally posted by stressed damsel
Though water temp does affect productivity it still does nothing when it comes to the output of TDS in the water...

Didn't say it did affect TDS just productivity.

[stressed damsel]

Originally posted by Piazzon12
at the moment, I'm concerned with quantity... later I will be concerned with quality.
Right now anythings better than the raw tapwater (w/ startright conditioner) that I've been using for the last 1.5yrs. I've started seeing high phosphate levels which is why I went RO/DI.

You should be more concerned with quality... will save u a lot of headaches in the future.

[03Mach]

Do you have low pressure coming out of your faucets? Where is the unit hooked up?

[stressed damsel]

Originally posted by Piazzon12
at the moment, I'm concerned with quantity... later I will be concerned with quality.
Right now anythings better than the raw tapwater (w/ startright conditioner) that I've been using for the last 1.5yrs. I've started seeing high phosphate levels which is why I went RO/DI.

You should be more concerned with quality... will save u a lot of headaches in the future.

[Piazzon12]

SD... this is a new unit hooked up yesterday. I want to verify it works properly before I ever bother looking/caring about TDS. If this is the rate at which it will produce water (30 gallons/day) I'm better off buying.

Mach: it's in my basement near a wash basin. The pressure's not terrible, but not great as I'm at the top of the hill. I will try to get a pressure measurement tonight. I'm sure the temp is rather cold as it's in the basement and near the house input

[03Mach]

Even if you have low water pressure you can fix that buy putting a booster on the line. with a pressure booster you will be able to set the water pressure for what the unit call for.

How much waste water are you getting per gallon? I think with mine it's like 4 gallons for every 1.

[Piazzon12]

Feed pressure is only 35 PSI... looks like I need a booster pump

[RCBrooke]

I wasn't happy with the output volume if my RO/DI unit either but 50' of line in 80 degree water preheats the feed water enough to just about triple my output. I'd give more exact numbers but I don't remember the exact figures from last winter when I hooked it up. Course I didn't hit on preheating until after I bought an extra RO unit, flush kit and pressure gauge.

Randy

[03Mach]

What does the system say for optimal pressure?