sps prop tank help

[Sparkysreef]

I am looking to use my sump as a frag tank to offset the cost of this hobby. The area of the sump I will be using is 24 X 18 X 18
The water depth will be about 14-15" deep. I will be using racks also at different heights.
What would be the best overall lighting for growth, wattage/SE/DE/kelvin?

This will be a 95% sps (mostly acro) prop tank.

[Coralmkr1]

Hi there. I would use a 250 metal halide, 20kelvin XM bulb. I would supplement with vho actinics as well. My sump is crammed full, so I set up a prop. tank for my corals. I used a 33long, (48 X 12 X 12. Its a short 55 gallon tank pretty much. I use two 250w 20k xm's and two 4 ft vho actinics. I plumbed the tank into my main sump, with a pump and some flex hose (spa flex) for the return. I had the tank drilled with a 1 inch drain. Or you could use an acrylic overflow box. Hope this helps man.

Dave

[Frankysreef]

t5's are working for me...and you dont have possible heat issues.

[Coralmkr1]

Heat is always an issue, That's where my Chiller comes in.

[Frankysreef]

I used t5's cause I was afraid of putting a 250 watt mh inside of a wooden cabinet... with no ventilation...

Cabinet warping, + the possibility of fire just put the thumbs down on a 250watt Mh.

[Coralmkr1]

Ahh I C, I ventilated my sump with Fans. Hope this helps.

-Dave

[coolfishy101]

I would use a 250 watt 10k bulb because you will get much better par, which means much better growth, 20k's will give you great color, but terrible growth compared to a 10k. XM 10k's have great numbers an almost any ballast. (se or de is up to you, I prefer se because it is easier to work with but de might be easier to direct the heat given off by creating some sort of mini-ductwork in the stand)

If electricity is a concern, use an electronic ballast (also gives off less heat than a magnetic ballast). To help get better colors, supplement with any sort of florescent actinics (preferably VHO) however it is still quite easy to get excellent color without actinic supplementation so it is not totally necessary.

[Gundo5000]

10k for sure, then before you get ready to sell them put on 20ks to get them to color up. Good luck.

[SaveOurReefs]

My vote goes for to a 150-250w de halide, prolly with a 12-15k bulb. I have seen the 14k phoenix, and the 12k reeflux bulb in person, both have great color and good growth, also you can get either one of those bulbs for about 75 bucks. IMO I wouldent crowd it up with vho actinics or suppliments, esp. if its going to be under your stand. And I personaly use t5s for my sps, but I really think it would be more efficient to just use a single halide for that size space.

-Tim B.

[Frankysreef]

I'll have to say that I really like my T5's for under cabinet use.. You dont have to worry about burning your hands either...

The colors are not bad either, still deep blue's, bright yellows, only the pinks kinda dimmed a bit...

I think keeping them in the fuge with all the pods/mysis and zooplankton is really helping thier growth too...

They have been in there a mo and I think I see 1/8- 1/4 " growth on the base.

[Sparkysreef]

Thanks for all the help and info it is much apperciated. Especially since you guys are adding as to why and providing information instead of the usual just use this or that.

Have to add something here. Heat is NOT an issue. I have a small room behing my tank with a 40gal and 65 gal sump hooked up in series. I am going to use the half of the 65 gal sump for frag tank as the other half is taken up by my deltec reactor.

[vegaskid11]

I used t5's cause I was afraid of putting a 250 watt mh inside of a wooden cabinet... with no ventilation...


I use two 250 watt DE inside my totally enclosed canopy with now issues. I have four ICECAP fans on it and I dont use a chiller. I think the DE halides burn much cooler than the SE. If heat is a concern then I would deffinately use a double ended halide.

[zapata41]

i would run the 10k xm se bulb on a m58 ballast. its funny when ppl say electronic ballast use less elec. my 400w m59 ballast pulls 385w on a killawatt meter when driving a 10k xm bulb. also on a mag ballast you get a little higher kelvin from the xm bulb, mine 400w 10k xm runs close to 12k so actinics are not realy needed. if you are doing everything right you will have awesome colors. i also wouldnt switch between the 20k and 10k as that will just be more stress to the corals , kinda like having to re-adjust to the lighting everytime you switch. also forget the actinics, just more elec to use up and since you are adding the frag tank as a way to try and offset the costs of the tank. also dont foget about flow, sps require a lot of flow , in my 4x3x1 prop tank i have about 8000gph through it and still would like a little more.
Best of luck

Tim