Weld-on 3 instead of 4?

ronbis · #1 01/31/2006, 07:38 PM

I am building a sump and ordered acrylic and weld-on 4 from Delvies plastic. However, they sent me weld-on 3. I was kind of wondering as their website interchanges the two... So I'm betting that they only carry weld-on 3. Anyway, since I'm only building a sump, the joints don't need to be beautiful. I was planning on using the "pins" methond. Wondering how I should alter the method? Just pull the pins faster?

Any help would be greatly appreciated as my old sump broke when I setup my new tank and transfering the sump was part of the fish move. So, I have a 5 gallon bucket for a sump. If I get a power outage my new wood floors are soaked!

-Ron

bassnman11 · #2 01/31/2006, 10:13 PM

Weldon 3 set very fast and will wick into a seam. The edges to be fastened need to be very flat and smoothe, no tool marks. Flame polish if possible. Clamp and tape the pieces together and use a fine tip syringe, flow the # 3 along the joint. It will suck in, but has no ability to fill, so if the pieces are not smoothe and flat, it will leak. I like to go back over the inside of the seams with weldon 16.

ronbis · #3 01/31/2006, 10:50 PM

I believe #3 is similar to some stuff I used for my first sump several years ago. One of the vertical seams came apart as I was trying to move it out of the stand. I didn't have a router back then, so I should be able to make better edges this time.

I'm wondering if I should try to set my router table up as a jointer by shimming the outfeed fence or simply clamp a straightedge to it and do it by hand. Probably would be good enough.

I did get two syringes with the weld-on. Do I want to put much pressure on the joints with the clamps? Maybe snug them up after wicking the weld-on in?

I was really looking forward to trying the "pins" method but I'm wondering if the weld-on would setup too quickly. My first sump had a couple of leaks and I had to go back and fill in some spots with some homemade #16 (mixed acrylic chips and cement). I guess I'll start cutting and see what happens when I try to glue.

badpacket · #4 02/01/2006, 03:40 AM

I'd suggest breaking out the table and doing the best job the first time around. I almost picked up the #3 myself, and the counter guy told me that you really do need good clean edges. Otherwise you just end up going over it again with #4, which kind of defeats the purpose.

a4twenty · #5 02/01/2006, 06:45 AM

i would suggest trying to get them to ship you the 4, unless the sump is small and your confident in your tech. 3 sets up pretty fast and any extra time you have can really come in handy. i used a router to prepare my edges and they worked perfect. if your using the pin method you don't need to add pressure, usually the weight of the piece is enough. you just have to hold the pieces square ( they get slippery when you apply the solvent ) i even went one further than bassnman11, and went over the inside and outside seams with a small bead of 16

ronbis · #6 02/01/2006, 11:21 AM

Urghh. Just as I expected, I called Delvies and they don't carry #4 any longer. Apparently the shipping regulations have recently changed and they can no longer ship it. So, I would probably have a problem getting it from anyone.

420,
I know how to make good edges with my table saw and router though, and the sump is small since I have a oceans motions 4-way and a sequence pump in the same small stand. So, I'll just have to make up for having the perfect materials with proper technique - something that you get good at when you live in BFE! Perhaps I'll take some pics as I work.

badpacket,
I may setup the router table, but by using the router by hand with a straightedge, I think I should get just as good of a finished product. Life Aquatic Rules!