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  #51  
Old 01/14/2004, 12:12 AM
Jim in santa barbara Jim in santa barbara is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Santa Barbara, California
Posts: 324
Here a couple of links:

DIY Greenhouse - PVC

LEDs - Super Bright - Moonlights DIY

Very large diameter clear fiberglass tanks / DIY culture vessels

U.S. Plastics - lots of, well um, plastic stuff

Hope they help
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  #52  
Old 01/22/2004, 11:26 AM
Reefin' Dude Reefin' Dude is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 67
here are my DIY projects. i will be adding several more in a few days.

G~
  #53  
Old 01/23/2004, 08:59 AM
Agu Agu is offline
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Venice, Florida
Posts: 15,230
Here's a simple and cheap kalk dripper with instructions on how to drip kalk,

http://www.reefwebsites.com/agu/kalkdrip/

Agu
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  #54  
Old 01/26/2004, 08:12 PM
trc_pdx trc_pdx is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 8
Here's one you may not have seen

This guy is the quintessential DIYer:

http://www.gizmology.net/index.htm

Info here on LEDs, pipe, & electrical/electronic circuits.
  #55  
Old 02/28/2004, 12:14 PM
kstockman kstockman is offline
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 890
Here is a new schematic of my water top off system. Completely automated, but the RO/DI is not hooked directly to the sump.
Attached Files
File Type: doc water top off pic.doc (36.5 KB, 740 views)
  #56  
Old 02/28/2004, 12:53 PM
kstockman kstockman is offline
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 890
Here is the run down:

What drives me here is total and complete paranoia of a flood. If you see a flaw let me know and I will address it and/or fix it. I think that it is bullet proof, but just in case.....

Parts:
3 30 gallon trash cans from Lowe's or maybe BJs--they cost about $15 each
1 pump
1 solenoid valve
2 kent marine float valves
4 bulkheads
10-20' of flexible hosing
1 timer
1 RO/DI system (maybe optional)
10-20' of 1/4 flexible pressure rated tubing


1. Fresh water: This is the automated part of the system. The water flows through a solenoid valve though the RO/DI system, then to the fresh water tank. The solenoid valve is connected to an electronic float switch in the fresh water tank. The electronic float switch has been fixed in place with a bulkhead fitting and some PCV fittings. I did not label the pump but it is the square box between the two lower cans. The pump is on a digital timer that turns on 5 minutes daily to refill to the top system. When the water in the the lower can lowers the electonic float switch opens to the RO/DI system. Notice: I have the water enter the fresh water can through a float switch just in case the solenoid gets stuck in the open position. This will keep the lower container from ever overflowing. I like turning on the pump daily so that the RO/DI system turns on for extended periods of time and is not constantly turning on and off. I collect about 4-5 gallons of water per day.

2. Gravity feed can: This can is fitted with a bulkhead and standpipe. Since the pump turns on for 5 minutes daily, I would overflow the gravity feed system very easily if the evaporation rate did not equal the fill up rate. Therefore the standpipe. When the top tank is full, water will just flow back to the frsh water tank in a loop fashion. The pump would be on for 15 minutes and it would not matter. The bottom of the gravity feed can is outfitted with a bulkhead that is reduced down to 1/4" tubing. This tube leads to the float valve in the sump.

Note: during normal operation the ball valve on the lower right is open and the left one is closed.

3. Salt water can: All this can has is a bulkhead fitting in the bottom and is connected to the fresh water can through a ball valve followed by a T. Normally this ball valve is in the closed position. There are two ways to fill up the salt water can. Firstly, open both ball valves and the water will equalize. The RO/DI system will stay on until both cans are full. Or keep the left ball valve closed and pump the water from the fresh to the salt. Since the fresh and salt are the same size, you can never overfill the salt--unless there is already water in it.

To make up salt water: Fill up the saltwater can. Move the plastic flexible line (from the pump) from the gravity feed can to the salt water can. Close off the ball valve to the fresh water (right) and open the left ball vavle. Turn on the pump and add salt. You now have a closed loop for the salt water make up. Leaving the pump on for a few hours warms the water up to 80F and makes the water homogeneous and warm.

I siphon water out of the bucket in my sump (where all the water returns from the overflows). At the same time I pump water back into the main sump.

The only failure point of the system is the float valve in the sump. If this failed, then I could endup with an extra 20 gallons of fresh water in the sump. But the more water that enters the sump, the more pressure will be on the float valve.

Final notes: Have had this system in operation in one form or another for 4+ years. In my old system, I did not have the ability to drain water from the gravity feed system back to the fresh water system. This led to numerous overflows. The can-over-can with standpip approach has been in operation since I moved over two years ago.

Hopefully this helps some one.

Just some less random thoughts.

ken
  #57  
Old 03/11/2004, 09:10 AM
Hellcat Hellcat is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 26
Here is a 150 gal I built. I did all the woodwork and used a pre-drilled oceanic 150 tank.



My father inlaw gave me 6 sheets of 3/8 inch acrylic so I made some filters with it too.

I really dont know if they are working or not yet. I used to have a tank 6 years ago it was a 100 gal, that I had to sell off due to a move. I am basically new to this, and finding out what I am doing wrong here

I have a refugium and skimmer that I made but so far all I am getting from the skimmer is water. If you want to see them I will post pics.
  #58  
Old 03/11/2004, 09:43 AM
Doppler Doppler is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Westchester,New York
Posts: 586
HOLY!! thats beautiful craftsmanship.Yes please post the other pics
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  #59  
Old 03/11/2004, 11:45 AM
Hellcat Hellcat is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 26
Ok here are some other shots

here is the hidden side door to vie the over flow boxes

open


closed



Here is the refugium, I used a gutted skilters protein skimmer and added a power head and some pvc pipe to make it taller. So far nothing has came out of it but clear water! but I also realized that I put fish in too soon so I am learning as I go.

I am getting a lot of bubbles, and from reading on here it looks like my plumbing may be too small.
Please if any of you have advice I am always eager to learn.



a close up



Here is the trickle filter I made as well.



Here is the pump connection

  #60  
Old 04/14/2004, 08:23 AM
J19M J19M is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Bear Creek, PA
Posts: 136
I got my Acrylic here: www.norvaplastics.com

I bought some acrylic on ebay from him. Then asked about some Acrylic tubing. He will sell it by the foot too.

Good guy to deal with.
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30 Gallon River Tank (wifes class room)
55 Gallon River tank
125 Gallon Freshwater

75 Gallon Semi-Reef (has water in it now)
  #61  
Old 05/14/2004, 07:52 AM
mmcaleer mmcaleer is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Gainesville, VA
Posts: 29
Hellcat,

Very nice stand. How did you build the canopy? How does it open for access into the tank? I am getting ready to build a new stand for my 90 gallon. I am building mine out of black walnut.

Mike
  #62  
Old 05/14/2004, 07:52 AM
mmcaleer mmcaleer is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Gainesville, VA
Posts: 29
Hellcat,

How did you build the canopy? How do you access the tank? I am getting ready to build a new stand for my 90 gallon out of black walnut.

Very nice tank by the way.

Mike
  #63  
Old 05/28/2004, 01:28 PM
Carl_in_Florida Carl_in_Florida is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Delray Beach, Fl
Posts: 2,325
Quote:
Originally posted by Doppler
Where can I get venturi valves for DIY skimmer?
Bump for answer
  #64  
Old 06/13/2004, 01:42 AM
neo1013 neo1013 is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Muskegon, Mi
Posts: 571
Here is one for cabinet doors. http://www.cabinetdoorsandhardware.com/default.asp
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  #65  
Old 06/14/2004, 08:47 AM
Mr.Jingles Mr.Jingles is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: MI
Posts: 206
weld-on

Ive been looking for weldon #3,4 and 16 and the places I've been to have said I need to place a minimum order. anyone know of a reasonable store for me to purchase inexpensive weldon?
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  #66  
Old 06/14/2004, 05:17 PM
neo1013 neo1013 is offline
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Location: Muskegon, Mi
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weld on

go to tap plastics.com, I got 1 can at a time from them
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  #67  
Old 06/16/2004, 07:21 PM
Mr.Jingles Mr.Jingles is offline
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k, sweet. thanks.
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Christian
  #68  
Old 07/05/2004, 08:32 PM
wildangel_04 wildangel_04 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: High Desert, CA
Posts: 205
Anyone know where i can get a strip heater to bend the acrylic that's 3/8 to 1/2 thick and will make 3/4 bends?

please give me a link if you know, or a place in so. Cal, thanks!
  #69  
Old 07/19/2004, 11:52 AM
hail_sniper hail_sniper is offline
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Location: Downey, California
Posts: 362
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=405314

that is a diy moonlight
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Sam H.

No, Officer i swear, its just kalkwasser
  #70  
Old 08/27/2004, 04:42 PM
starting_dude starting_dude is offline
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 145
Not sure if this link is already there ..
A good DIY if you don't want to even buy a ballast ..

http://www.overgrow.com/growfaq/966
Agoog read on MH components for people who are just starting ..
http://www.personal.psu.edu/faculty/...hlighting.html
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29 G bow front
20#LR
40# Aragonite sand
Remora skimmer
1 Powerhead
Status (6/19): 0 Amo, 0 Nitrite, 5 Nitrate
  #71  
Old 08/27/2004, 08:00 PM
Hellcat Hellcat is offline
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Posts: 26
I put plans on here somewhere. As far as getting into the tank Its open on top except for 2 braces in the middle. There are 4 lids with vent holes on top made of 3/8 inch plywood. The top is about 3 inches taller in the front and the sides so the lids sit down below and cant be seen if they warp a bit.
  #72  
Old 08/27/2004, 08:05 PM
Hellcat Hellcat is offline
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Posts: 26
My tank has been kind of giving me trouble lately, I need better lighting, but money is tight. All I have now is 4 4ft 40 watts with 2 actinics and 2 whites. Plus I have 2 tiny leaks at my drain fittings.

Is it true that you dont need teflon tape for plastic fittings?
  #73  
Old 08/28/2004, 06:35 AM
Unresistible Blue Unresistible Blue is offline
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Location: Ohio
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Teflon tape acts to lubricate the threads and will allow you to screw together fittings tighter (without applying additional force). This is true with metal and plastic fittings. It also acts to seal the fittings if there are irregularities in the threads.

When people talk about leaking bulkheads the typical question that comes up is the pro's and con's of using silicone on the bulkheads when you install them.

Blue
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200g tank w/ SD dsb, ~150 lbs LR, 2 Maxijet 1200, 2 x 400w MH, 2 x 165w act blue; 55g refug. w/ dsb, grape and razor, NO 40w on 12 hrs, Minijet 404; 44g rubbermaid sump.
  #74  
Old 09/01/2004, 06:52 AM
trueladyme trueladyme is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: pensacola fl
Posts: 12
WE ARE BUILDING A ACYRILIC TANK 250 GALLON ......................ANY ONE HAVE INFO ON DOING THIS YOURSELF. FACTS PLANS IDEAS ETC? ANY HELP GREATLY APPRICIATED.
  #75  
Old 09/04/2004, 05:02 PM
zemuron114 zemuron114 is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Pilgrim State (Mass)
Posts: 3,288
refugium/sump

I want to make sump with a refugium out of my old tank.. how do i do this.. i've seen many pictures, but i havntquite grasped it yet... does anyone have any sugestions or websites with specific designs???? please help!!

dj
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