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  #26  
Old 11/26/2003, 11:25 AM
dmiannay dmiannay is offline
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Thanks for the comments on the electrical!

Our stand is all 3/4" hardwood (red oak) plywood. I temporarily removed the center brace so I could install the sump. I purchased some red oak plywood and will cut a replacement center brace since the stand will definitely need it in-place to properly, and safely, support the 135 gallon tank.
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  #27  
Old 11/26/2003, 12:18 PM
jgmclellan jgmclellan is offline
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So stupid question from someone who knows nothing about electrical work... it looks like there are plugs running from the receptical panel to the power centres - yes? So why the middle man? Why not just plug straight into the power centres?

Appologies in advance for my ignorance!
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  #28  
Old 11/26/2003, 12:30 PM
Fliger Fliger is offline
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Awesome set-up! Just tagging along!
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  #29  
Old 11/26/2003, 12:51 PM
dmiannay dmiannay is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by jgmclellan
So stupid question from someone who knows nothing about electrical work... it looks like there are plugs running from the receptical panel to the power centres - yes? So why the middle man? Why not just plug straight into the power centres?

Appologies in advance for my ignorance!
Not a stupid question. I'm in the training business and we have a saying... "The only stupid question is the one you don't ask."

Many of the receptacles are wired to a single power center switch since I needed a way to power more than one item at a time with a single switch. For example… one of the power center switches powers one of the timer receptacles, and the timer powers one the two-outlet receptacles. This way a single timer can operate a Metal Halide lamp as well as a canopy fan (both of which have their own chords and require separate receptacles). There are several other items of equipment that I desire to energize with a single switch and this is the method I chose to accomplish it. Another reason is that access to the reverse side of the power centers will be difficult once the stand is positioned next to the living room wall. My preference was to have all the system components plug into a single location that was easily accessible and visible. It provides for a measure of convenience, ease of use, and aesthetics as well as safety. Since this is a piece of furniture in our living room, how it looks is as important as how it works!

HTH and thanks for the question

We're head'n out for Thanksgiving, so I won't be online until about 24 hours from now.
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  #30  
Old 11/26/2003, 12:57 PM
LowCel LowCel is offline
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Wow, much better now that I can see the pics. Looks great so far, looking forward to seeing more pics though.
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  #31  
Old 11/26/2003, 01:04 PM
drifter drifter is offline
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Happy Thanksgiving,
Just tagging along for more updates.
  #32  
Old 11/26/2003, 03:53 PM
Dr.King Dr.King is offline
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Location: West Chester, PA USA
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I'm in the process of setting up my 125 RR tank and this is very inspirational. I will be using some of these electrical ideas in my stand, thanks for sharing! If the reef looks half as good as the wiring your sure to have a beautiful tank.
  #33  
Old 11/26/2003, 04:10 PM
REEFnR6 REEFnR6 is offline
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Awesome job guys! That is a set-up to be thankful for! If you're ever in New Mexico can you help me with something like that for my 135? Is it safe to put the tank on sawhorses like that. I thought the entire bottom rim had to be supported anytime you put water in it, guess not. Keep up the good work.
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  #34  
Old 11/27/2003, 08:45 PM
dmiannay dmiannay is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by REEFnR6
Awesome job guys! That is a set-up to be thankful for! If you're ever in New Mexico can you help me with something like that for my 135? Is it safe to put the tank on sawhorses like that. I thought the entire bottom rim had to be supported anytime you put water in it, guess not. Keep up the good work.
REEFnR6,

Thanks to you and the others for the kind comments. We're just noobies here, so the encouragement is very welcome!

Your comment about the tank being on sawhorses while filled with water kinda took my breath away for a second I never thought of that I don't think anything bad came of the event since there were never and leaks and the tank looks just fine now that it's empty. I appreciate the comment and will be very careful about that if the opportunity ever presents itself again.

Tomorrow the plumbing starts as well as painting the back glass of the tank. I've done exhaustive research here on backgrounds and am not concerned about painting the glass directly. If I ever have to remove it, the paint will come off quite easily using a variety of different methods. But I don't see that ever being necessary since we'll never use this tank anywhere but against a wall.

Again, all the comments are truly humbling. Thanks!
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  #35  
Old 11/27/2003, 09:07 PM
kanankeban kanankeban is offline
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Hi,
Do you have GFCI in those outlets?
Just curious?
or do you have then in the circuit board panel?
if not,
put them in either way...
I can see why you like lots of switches LOL...Aviation Training... guess it looks like a cockpit
Regards...
Hector
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  #36  
Old 11/27/2003, 09:19 PM
dmiannay dmiannay is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by kanankeban
Hi,
Do you have GFCI in those outlets?
Just curious?
Each of the American DJ power centers is powered by its own separate 15 amp circuit. The two 15 amp circuits are new and dedicated only for aquarium use. The outlets in the living room where the power centers plug in are both GFCI protected. With kids in the house, as well as me and my wife... there's no excuse for not taking safety seriously! Thanks for the concern!

And yes, I do like switches Convenience and neatness are things that mean a lot to me ... oh and to my wife, Cathy as well
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Maturing reefer with a love for the Lord who created it all!
Check out our website... click small red house above my post.
  #37  
Old 11/28/2003, 08:35 AM
cmiannay cmiannay is offline
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Haha! Can you say, "GADGET MAN?!!"
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  #38  
Old 11/29/2003, 12:26 AM
dmiannay dmiannay is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Woodstock, GA
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Thumbs up Well, Here's the Start of Plumbing

Started the plumbing today and got a lot of help from several members of RC. The first task was to build the Durso standpipes for my twin overflows. After finally figuring out what pieces of PVC were needed, I rounded them all up between HD and Lowes and finished building them this afternoon.

Here they are waiting to be installed...
.
.

.
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And here's one installed in the right hand overflow next to the 3/4" return pipe...
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.

.
.
Tomorrow, errr... rather later today I'll start with plumbing the interface between the livingroom and basement. Now that ought to be a real blast
.
.
Also, got word today that the custom canopy will be here tomorrowl. Once it arrives I'll be able to get all the lighting installed Can't wait
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Maturing reefer with a love for the Lord who created it all!
Check out our website... click small red house above my post.

Last edited by DJ88©; 01/20/2004 at 11:25 PM.
  #39  
Old 11/29/2003, 01:23 AM
melev melev is offline
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Doug, thanks for the link to your thread. You've gotten a lot done already.

Like everyone else, I'm really impressed with your electrical setup, because you have the simplicity of hitting a switch to turn something off instead of having to unplug it. Plus it looks like you labeled each one so you know what is what. Sharp!!! Mine is way less impressive, but sure does the job. 1/2 the outlets are GFI protected, the other half are not. That way hopefully some of the equipment is running even if I get a false trip.
http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com...newlywired.jpg

That sump looks really good in there on the cherry wood. I may steal one of those pictures for the webpage on my site that has your sump.

Regarding the back glass, you have one more option if you don't want to actually paint it. You can buy the black corrugated plastic that they use for sign material. I have a sheet on the back of my 29g that looks really good, plus it is removable because it is affixed with small pieces of self-adhesive velcro.

Here's a picture where you can see the black background.
http://www.melevsreef.com/pics/1103/...03_newtank.jpg

Keep us posted, you are doing a great job both on the tank and the documentation here.
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  #40  
Old 11/29/2003, 01:33 AM
thetedinator thetedinator is offline
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Outstanding thread. Thanks.
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  #41  
Old 11/29/2003, 01:54 AM
dmiannay dmiannay is offline
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Location: Woodstock, GA
Posts: 893
Quote:
Originally posted by melev
... 1/2 the outlets are GFI protected, the other half are not. That way hopefully some of the equipment is running even if I get a false trip.

That sump looks really good in there on the cherry wood. I may steal one of those pictures for the webpage on my site that has your sump.

Regarding the back glass, you have one more option if you don't want to actually paint it. You can buy the black corrugated plastic that they use for sign material. I have a sheet on the back of my 29g that looks really good, plus it is removable because it is affixed with small pieces of self-adhesive velcro.
Marc,

I have all my equipment divided between the upper and lower power centers. If one or the other GFCI trips, the remaining power center will keep critical items powered until I discover the problem and make the fix.

As for using one of my pictures... you don't even need to ask You're welcome to any you see. If you want me to take one from any specific angle, just let me know.

As for the black corrugated sheets... where can I get some, or at least stop by and take a look?

BTW: When I was out in FW a couple weeks ago I stayed very close to your home. I was at the AmeriSuites located just south of 820 on Bryant Irvin. Had an excellent steak my last night at the Saltgrass Streakhouse right behind the hotel. Hopefully my next trip out I can feast my eyes on your 55 gal setup!
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Maturing reefer with a love for the Lord who created it all!
Check out our website... click small red house above my post.
  #42  
Old 11/29/2003, 02:00 AM
melev melev is offline
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Well, any sign making company will have it for sale. FastSigns is pretty big in the metroplex here, but I don't know if they are national. Regal Plastics carries it in various sizes, and it is dirt cheap. I got a 2'x4' piece for .54 or something rediculous. I bet any hobby/crafts store would have it as well, but maybe not in the length you need... but maybe I'm wrong. If you need a picture of the black material, I'll take one tomorrow and post it in your thread so you know what you are looking for.

Sorry I missed you when you were in town, because you were very close. Be sure to contact me on your next trip and you are definitely welcome to visit and chat.
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  #43  
Old 11/29/2003, 02:13 AM
jjmg jjmg is offline
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  #44  
Old 11/29/2003, 02:33 AM
jun41 jun41 is offline
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Geez, nice setup. I just got my oceanic 75 and your overflow pictures gave me a better idea of what my standpipe and return should look like. Thanks.

Any powerheads going in there? Or are you just going to use the hose thing? I'm asking because I have that grey pipe and the hose with mine and I just was curious as to how you were going to set that up.
  #45  
Old 11/29/2003, 02:52 AM
Tcook Tcook is offline
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Doug,

If your Oceanic came with the standard perforated standpipe, you can use it as an effective snail-blocker on your Durso standpipes.
  #46  
Old 11/29/2003, 03:10 AM
Reefmedic79 Reefmedic79 is offline
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Awsome job I to value oranization and you gave me some ideas for overhauling my set up. Is there room for possibly placing another partition between the sump and the power units?(to prevent splashes/salt build up)
Keep up the good work.
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  #47  
Old 11/29/2003, 05:45 AM
isom isom is offline
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Talking

more pics! more pics!
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  #48  
Old 11/29/2003, 07:55 AM
dmiannay dmiannay is offline
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Location: Woodstock, GA
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Quote:
Originally posted by jun41
Any powerheads going in there? ... I just was curious as to how you were going to set that up.
Jun41: Yes, I will have 3 or possibly 4 MJ 1200 PHs in the 135 along with the two return Loc-Line hoses. The PHs will all be driven by a Red Sea WaveMaster Pro to provide variety and turbulence in the current. I'll post pictures when the time comes to show their placement. I'm certain finding the right position and direction for each will depend on how we aquascape, etc.
Quote:
Originally posted by Tcook
If your Oceanic came with the standard perforated standpipe, you can use it as an effective snail-blocker on your Durso standpipes.
Tcook: Wow... what a great idea. I was wondering yesterday what I would use... terrific suggestion Thanks a million!
Quote:
Originally posted by fleetmarine79
... Is there room for possibly placing another partition between the sump and the power units?(to prevent splashes/salt build up)
fleetmarine79: I'm not exactly sure what you mean, but I will already have a full-height and width plexiglas barrier between the sump and the entire electrical end of the stand. The one I will install should completely separate and protect the electrical components from any type of splash. Did I mis-understand your question?

Here's a picture of the guide channel I installed for the plexiglas barrier.
.
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Last edited by DJ88©; 01/20/2004 at 11:25 PM.
  #49  
Old 11/29/2003, 08:12 AM
vanburen vanburen is offline
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How much are the power centers? They look like something we could all use! Thanks!
  #50  
Old 11/29/2003, 08:19 AM
dmiannay dmiannay is offline
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vanburen,

I ordered the American DJ PC-100/A AC Power Centers for $29.99 each. Very reasonable

I purchased one from a guy on eBay with free shipping but couldn't find anymore there, so I found another company (idjnow) on the internet and ordered the second from them. Both units are identical. I would avoid idjnow, though... they're service was not too good. If you do a Google search for the American DJ PC-100/A you'll get many, many hits from places that sell them. Just take your pick!

HTH. If you want more pictures of the units, let me know.
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