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  #51  
Old 07/21/2004, 07:46 AM
melev melev is offline
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Where does one buy marine plywood? I bet keeping that foam sheet in place while putting the tank on the stand will be virtually impossible. No matter how many helpers I have. But still good advice!
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  #52  
Old 07/21/2004, 07:48 AM
Bomber Bomber is offline
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Home Depot

That foam comes in 4X8 sheets. Put it down and trim it after the tank is on it.
  #53  
Old 07/21/2004, 07:50 AM
Bomber Bomber is offline
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OH if you use the foam, cut the hole and line up the tank - but don't do the finish trim on the hole until the tank is full. It might compress the foam a 1/8" or so. Trim it last to take care of that.
  #54  
Old 07/21/2004, 07:58 AM
fairview fairview is offline
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Looks like a great project!

Make sure you leave yourself plenty of room over the tank for access. That's a mistake I made installing my in-wall 75gal. It's a back-breaker to work in the tank, especially to reach the front of the tank.

I'm sure you've given this plenty of thought already. You always do!

-fairview (TomW)
  #55  
Old 07/21/2004, 08:17 AM
thewuf thewuf is offline
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I was going to say a couple of strips of the good two-sided tape will hold the foam in place, but I like Bomber's idea better - trim it after the tank's in place.
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  #56  
Old 07/21/2004, 08:34 AM
jdsabin1 jdsabin1 is offline
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Will it be a front panel access thing or no? I built a canopy on hinges attached to the inside wall of the tank since I preferred the 'no front panel' look from the front of the tank (I wanted people to see the aquarium as the only thing in the wall itself, almost like a framed, living piece of art. Corny I know).

I also used strong chain at both canopy corners attached to the ceilng to reinforce and a very large eyelet hook in the front middle of my canopy so I could easily prop the canopy to work in the tank.

I also use one of these as my platform (foldable so I can easily access my sump and stuff underneath) so I can effectively reach around and do work in the tank itself:

*-----------------
Gorilla Ladders
Aluminum Work Platform / Bench
Model WP-20-06

Ultra lightweight aluminum design. Features locking safety legs and slip resistant feet. Extra wide 40 in. by 15 in. platform surface. 225 lb. Medium duty rating, ANSI Type II.

Internet/Catalog # 163539
Store SKU# 374054

Price: $34.94/ea
Home Depot


*-----

Works slicker than greased goose poop .
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  #57  
Old 07/21/2004, 09:07 AM
starmanres starmanres is offline
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Marc,

Congrats on the new tank and I'm glad you are showing all the noobies the value of patience and taking your time in setting up a new tank...

I don't know if your new fish room will have enough space for the newly installed acrylic waterfall/pool table...

I wish you all the best and look forward to watching this thing unfold!

Robert
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  #58  
Old 07/21/2004, 09:48 AM
tor101898 tor101898 is offline
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hey marc are you sure about that 50 page thread.

congrats on the new kid (tank).now get to work.
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  #59  
Old 07/21/2004, 10:02 AM
SPC SPC is offline
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Marc, I will not be using any plywood top or foam on my new 380 gallon tank. My logic for this is that a glass tank is supported only on the outside rim and anything going on inside this rim is of no consequence. If the outside band of the stand is not level and straight, 3/4" plywood and foam will not stop the tank from possibly sagging. Just make sure you build the tank in place so that you can make up for any irregularities in the floor.

BTW, if you look at one of the stands built by the major tank manufactures for a 6' tank, you will see only three 1x3's used across the back for vertical support.
Quote:
Originally posted by jdsabin1
Will it be a front panel access thing or no? I built a canopy on hinges attached to the inside wall of the tank since I preferred the 'no front panel' look from the front of the tank (I wanted people to see the aquarium as the only thing in the wall itself, almost like a framed, living piece of art. Corny I know).
How do you clean the algae off the front glass?
Steve
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  #60  
Old 07/21/2004, 10:25 AM
mane3215 mane3215 is offline
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This is actually what I was reffering too:



Works like a charm.
  #61  
Old 07/21/2004, 10:58 AM
rjwilson37 rjwilson37 is offline
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The foam helps, so if the plywood is not perfect then the foam takes up the slack and puts it perfect so you have a nice even surface for the tank to sit on.
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  #62  
Old 07/21/2004, 11:07 AM
bulkhead bulkhead is offline
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When I built the stand for my 100g, I used 3/4" plywood over the all 2x4 frame with 1/2 foam insulation under the tank, like with a sump. Personally, I think the way the stand is constructed may be more important that whether or not you use 2x4 vs 2x6's for the uprights.... Hard to explain, but here is a picture of mine, http://members.cox.net/allthrtl/pictures/standframe.jpg . Notice how the uprights are placed, vs. the GARF method.....Does that make sense?
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  #63  
Old 07/21/2004, 11:39 AM
jdsabin1 jdsabin1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by SPC
How do you clean the algae off the front glass?
Steve
Magnet . I also have the 30" scraper that works great as well.
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Reefing Law #22: The more a coral costs, the greater the likelihood it will die in your tank.
  #64  
Old 07/21/2004, 12:49 PM
Firefighter_Tim Firefighter_Tim is offline
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What a great project!!! Can't wait to see it unfold. I am going to be out of town until Aug 2nd without access to internet so I'm looking forward to alot of progress to catch up on by then. Good luck and happy reefing!!!
  #65  
Old 07/21/2004, 01:29 PM
gho gho is offline
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Cool deal marc! 14 days, eh?

My project took months:


Too bad you're not local, or I could maybe lend a hand.
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  #66  
Old 07/21/2004, 02:01 PM
rjwilson37 rjwilson37 is offline
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I put my 2x4's directly on the inside of the stand and from the ground to the top of the tank. I lost a little space on the inside in the 4 corners, but I like the fact that all the weight is on the 2x4 directly from the bottom of the tank to the ground. I figure there won't be a chance for swaying with some long screws from the stands top and bottom sections to the 2x4's.

I would think Marc will want to use 4x4's for the 4 corners.







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24g Aquapod
MJ 900
Standard Pump
Standard 72w PC Lighting
  #67  
Old 07/21/2004, 03:05 PM
rjwilson37 rjwilson37 is offline
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Since my tank was only a 55 gallon, I used just some thin foam padding under the tank. I have a buddy that picked up some thicker foam padding for his 180 when it was put in place, I can't recall the exact kind it was. His tank was Acrylic and they are alot lighter and a bit more forgiving on sitting on a perfect surface compared to a glass aquarium.
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Isn't life just wonderful.

24g Aquapod
MJ 900
Standard Pump
Standard 72w PC Lighting
  #68  
Old 07/21/2004, 03:53 PM
weatherson weatherson is offline
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Hey Marc,
Congats again on the new tank. I'd recommend the 3/4" plywood top also. The foam is a different story though. I used Styrofoam under my tank but only inside the trim area and of a thickness less than the gap so it doesn't actually rest on it. I placed it there more for insulation purposes. One problem with large tanks with bottom trim and foam is that the edges compress leaving the large area of the bottom to create pressure on the bottom glass panel. A large flat area of foam will not compress easily and can actually due harm. Of course, if your new tank is of trimless design, then never mind what I just mentioned. Either way, it's always better to fabricate the stand properly and ensure that it is perfectly flat and level. The plywood should fix any minute imperfections.

How do you plan to handle the construction of the corner of the upper wall? Is it not a load bearing wall? Will you be utilizing a header beam?

Joseph
  #69  
Old 07/21/2004, 04:11 PM
melev melev is offline
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Great comments everyone.

Since I can't do computer rendering, what I'm about to describe will require your imagination to follow along. Accesss to the tank will be from the living room side and from the garage of course.

My plan is to create a lighting rack that will be supported on the ends. These ends will have 3 wheels each, rolling in a track. A stop will be built into the track.

With the canopy door opened, I will be able to push the lighting forward from inside the garage, to gain access to the rear of the tank and still see. From the front of the tank, I'll be able to push the rack away from me and into the garage.

With the wheels evenly spaced, the center wheel would hit the stop either direction, to prevent the rack from rolling too far outward. Just getting 12" of space from either end should do nicely.

My plan is to create a mantle of sorts, which will wrap arond the front and side of the tank. It'll only stick out 6" to 8", and help hide the front edge of the sand bed. Plus it'll give me a spot to put a drink down, or rest my elbows during picture taking. Just a handy shelf.

The top canopy door will also be some type of woodwork that wraps around the front and side, but only the front will open. I'd actually like that door to lift up and slide in, but I may just lift up and lock it in place instead.

Using the lighting box on wheels method, I'll probably create a box with highly polished aluminum, so I won't be blinded when opening the door.

Thank you for the advice about the platform surface. The tank appears to have a plastic frame, although it might even be some type of black aluminum perhaps. I don't know whether to use foam or not now.

Jeff, I like that little platform. I recently read about the 800g reef in the Large Tanks Forum, and loved how that guy had a walkway behind his tank - reaching in that tank must be so much easier that way.

Joseph, this isn't a load-bearing wall, and my roof is made of trusses. I had a framer come over to discuss this corner, and he told me I could tear out all the interior walls of my house and it would still stand. That being said, when I cut out the corner, I'll probably hold my breath and watch for disaster for.... I dont know...90 seconds?
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  #70  
Old 07/21/2004, 04:12 PM
melev melev is offline
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I almost forgot....

Fairview,

[welcome]
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  #71  
Old 07/21/2004, 04:24 PM
SOMEthinsFISHY SOMEthinsFISHY is offline
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YES welcome 2 u fairview !
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  #72  
Old 07/21/2004, 04:40 PM
bulkhead bulkhead is offline
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Granted my tank is only 100g, but in 3 month's the styrofoam insulation I used under my tank, has only compressed a little over 1/16th of an inch. However, it probably isn't a necessary to have the foam, I just felt better about it, even though the stand was perfectly level....I read to many disaster threads I guess.....
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  #73  
Old 07/21/2004, 05:48 PM
SPC SPC is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by rjwilson37
The foam helps, so if the plywood is not perfect then the foam takes up the slack and puts it perfect so you have a nice even surface for the tank to sit on.
Think about that for a minute, rj, how much weight do you think the foam can actually support? In other words, if your stand is out of level by 3/4"" in a 6' span, then how is 1/2" foam going to make it sit level on the 3/4" dip end? The tank is going to compress the foam....what, about 50%? If this is the case, then it will be compressed down to 1/4" on one end, but barely touching on the other, which of course means that the tank is not being supported on that end.

BTW, no major tank manufacture uses foam on top of their stands, in fact, it seems that I have read where they advice against this.
Steve
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  #74  
Old 07/21/2004, 05:56 PM
jobryan26 jobryan26 is offline
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I see what you are talking about Chris. Marc that is a cool idea for the lights! I think it would work great unless I was the one trying to do it.lol
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  #75  
Old 07/21/2004, 05:58 PM
SPC SPC is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by jdsabin1
Magnet . I also have the 30" scraper that works great as well.
How do you get the magnet connected to the outside of the front of the glass?
Steve
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