Buildup of a 90 gallon Reef (picture intensive) - Page 3

MacnReef · #51 05/13/2004, 12:15 PM

No thats okay. I appreciate it though. I already have my tank all plumbed with a Blueline 30HDX as my return and a 820gph SEIO pump.

That is going to be a lot of flow in a 90, definitely over kill but dial them back and you will be set. Your overflow will be noisy with the one as the return, mine is noisy and I don't have anywhere near that much out of my blueline. And I use a durso, I am having trouble getting the air hole set right on the durso. But I used both drain and return in the overflow box as drains. The 3/4" is higher than the durso drain and is just a stand pipe so if my durso get a little clogged or any flow changes it will handle the extra flow.

Mike

thrlride · #52 05/13/2004, 12:19 PM

How noisy are we talking? I am going to use the stockman design. Does the noise come from the overflow or from the sump?

MacnReef · #53 05/13/2004, 12:25 PM

Talking have to turn the TV up whenever it freaks out. Then I have to go over and mess with the hole. The noise is from the over flow. I will have to look up more on the stockman design and see what others say. I might try it.

Mike

thrlride · #54 05/13/2004, 12:42 PM

Next purchase should be tomorrow. I am buying 2 250w metal halides with magnetic ballast and 10k xm bulbs. In addition to that will be two T5 actinics. Also, I will purchase an ASM G-3 skimmer that is designed for up to 250 gallons. Hopefully that will be big enough for a decent bio-load. Then it is time to save money again.

MacnReef · #55 05/13/2004, 01:04 PM

Let me know how you like the XM's...I am planning on getting them. I run 2-250W magnetic PFO ballast with 2-14K halides a 2-96W PC.

Also, let me know how you like the T5s. I personally didn't like them when I saw them on a smaller tank. Might make a nice combo on a 90 though.

Mike

thrlride · #56 05/13/2004, 01:39 PM

I've never seen them in action. Hopefully I like them! I will let you know and keep this thread posted.

rufio173 · #57 05/13/2004, 08:23 PM

For those with noisy dursos. You might try threading the hole for a small ball valve, such as a john guest ball... or if you don't want to thread, just drill a small hole to input the line with a little silicone and attach it to a John Guest ball valve and Voila! You've got yourself an easily adjustable air valve to input the right amount of air into the standpipe.

Peace,
John H.

thrlride · #58 05/13/2004, 08:33 PM

Here is a picture of the canopy with one coat of flat white paint and the urethane caulk applied. This is a slow process, hopefully it will turn out well.

starmanres · #59 05/13/2004, 10:22 PM

Rufio: Do you have a graphic or picture of what you are talking about?

Thrl: Excellent work! I may paint mine white on the inside to take advantage of the reflection.

Robert

rufio173 · #60 05/14/2004, 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by starmanres
Rufio: Do you have a graphic or picture of what you are talking about?

Thrl: Excellent work! I may paint mine white on the inside to take advantage of the reflection.

Robert

Here we go, here's a pic of lunchbucket's new setup with the valve on the durso overflow.

thrlride · #61 05/14/2004, 07:22 AM

I am going to use the stockman design and use the airvalve like that to make it easily adjustable.

starmanres · #62 05/14/2004, 03:17 PM

Rufio,

Thanks for the picture - it helps me view what you are saying.

It did generate a couple of questions though:

So the water flow into the durso is restricted by the flow of available air into the top? If the airflow was too little, would it cause the overflow to fill up too high because the durso would not be able to handle the flow? Or am I misunderstanding?

Also, with the valve up above the tank, would my MH be too hot for the thinner plastic on the valve? Would I be better running it through the back of the hood and placing the ball valve outside the heat zone? Again, it might not be an issue...

Thanks again,

Robert

MacnReef · #63 05/14/2004, 03:32 PM

If there is not enough air in the durso, the water level in the overflow drops and it starts sucking air and water making a VERY loud slurping noise. If the hole is too big letting in too much air, the durso sucks more air then water so the water in the overflow rises.

Mike

rufio173 · #64 05/14/2004, 04:47 PM

MacnReef summed it pretty well. You should have absolutely no problem controlling flow rate with the valve. If you have too little air, then siphon effect will occurr and the level in the overflow box will constantly change as the siphon breaks over and over again. However, with the valve, you should have no problem adjusting the airflow. You most likely will never have an overflow in your tank due to the siphon effect, but that all depends on how large your pump is.... It's a balance. If you change the flow into your tank, then you must change the amount of airflow in the durso pipe with the valve to keep it quiet. Some people just drill multiple tiny holes as needed and seal them as needed. The valve just gives you more options.

Peace,
John H.

starmanres · #65 05/14/2004, 04:51 PM

Thanks Mike and John.

I will be looking at making this addition to my dursos.

Robert

thrlride · #66 05/14/2004, 05:49 PM

I got my two pumps in today. They are both little giant 4-mdqx's and are capable of 1380 gph each at 0 head. I'm going to need to dial these babies back! Also, I ordered the ASM G-3 skimmer and the t5's and mh's. They should arrive next week.

thrlride · #67 05/14/2004, 08:29 PM

Quick question, sorry if already asked. One of these pumps will go to the return and I will make a spray bar that is the width of the tank. I will have holes in the bar all along the surface to offer flow. The other pump will split and go to a pair of sea-swirls. Should I use 1/2" or 3/4" sea-swirls. Is this enough flow for an SPS tank?

thrlride · #68 05/18/2004, 01:29 PM

MH came in today. Skimmer should arrive within a few days and the T5's should arrive next week. Can't wait!!!

MacnReef · #69 05/18/2004, 02:38 PM

To answer your question on the spray bar. I used a spray bar originally like the one that electric130 uses. Every few seconds one of the outlets would pull a vortex and spray air all into the tank. And that was with a 950gph pump at 0' of head, so make sure the spray bar is a few inches under water level, not right on the surface.

Mike

thrlride · #70 05/18/2004, 03:04 PM

Thanks for the suggestion! I actually got the idea from him after seeing his in person.

MacnReef · #71 05/18/2004, 03:06 PM

10-4. I loved it but once it was running, it was more of a PITA for me.

thrlride · #72 05/18/2004, 03:08 PM

Why was it a PITA? The vortex's?

MacnReef · #73 05/18/2004, 03:13 PM

The vortex's plus the side opposite from the overflow kept dropping lower into the water about 3-4" lower than the opposite side and it just didn't look right...ALTHOUGH, I loved the way the flow was in the tank!

thrlride · #74 05/18/2004, 03:14 PM

I was just thinking about how to attach the far end. How did you do it or did it just hang?

MacnReef · #75 05/18/2004, 03:16 PM

I used a suction cup mount that I had. It worked for a short period but will all of the flow and constant moving of the spray bar, it kept coming lose and the suction cup would fall behind the rock work. I am sure there is something better to do that would make the spray bar awesome. I just couldnt' figure it out.