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  #976  
Old 02/01/2007, 09:47 PM
first-chevalier first-chevalier is offline
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Drilling 10g Huzzah!

Houston we have a hole!

Thanks to the strength from our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ I am able to report you CAN successfully drill a Presto Manufacturing 10g tank IF it does not have the orange sticker on it.



I was praying the entire time and when the bit dropped through to the other side on the pilot hole I nearly crapped myself and dropped the dremel. It's not the neatest job cutting and hopefully it will seal but it's a hole and the bulkhead goes through it.



I filled it and emptied it about five times testing the leaks. Leaked every time. I didn't do a very clean job cutting the gaskets apart so I'm gonna get another one and try to do a better job. That will also give me a spacer for the outside to hopefully help with the seal. Anyway, it's on to the acrylic work for the clafo, painting, and then installing all the acrylic in both the overflow and the sump. Hurray, progress.
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But how can it be a closed system if there's a big opening in the back of my hood......
  #977  
Old 02/01/2007, 09:50 PM
first-chevalier first-chevalier is offline
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Sorry, that's perfecto manufacturing.....
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But how can it be a closed system if there's a big opening in the back of my hood......
  #978  
Old 02/02/2007, 08:44 AM
phishtail phishtail is offline
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congrats
  #979  
Old 02/02/2007, 09:53 AM
Travis L. Stevens Travis L. Stevens is offline
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I knew you could do it, first-chevalier. That's really great. I've found a knew way, yet more expensive, for those makeshift bulkheads. It seems to work a smidge better. If you run out and grab a couple rubber washers of sufficient size that there is rubber around the edges, you can cut a hole out in them and place them on each side of the glass. Here are some pictures.

First, take the male threaded piece that you will be using and use it as a guide to mark how wide the hole will need to be


Though the rubber washers are black, the ink from a permanent marker is darker and shiny


Then, take a razor blade or x-acto knife and trim out the middle.


Always make sure that you have a solid fit. Make sure that the hole that you cut isn't too large or too small.


When the washers are all cut out to your liking, add the male piece first.


Add the other washer


And lastly, add the female end. Twist down snuggly, but don't over crank it. It should work like a champ.
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  #980  
Old 02/02/2007, 11:12 AM
first-chevalier first-chevalier is offline
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thanks for the tip. The reason my washer isn't working is because I wasn't especially careful when I seperated the two pieces. There are a lot of high and low spots. Plus there isn't enough thickness to allow me to hand tighten the male and female pieces. I would have to use a wrench and I an unwilling to do that and risk cracking my glass.

To solve this I am going to purchase another one of the suggested washers and ever so painstakingly slowly cut them apart. This will not only give me a better seal, but I can use the flat side from the failed first one as a spacer which will allow me to get a better seal. Should work. Solution of last resort is to use silicon and seal the gaskets in there when I install the bulkhead for the final time.
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But how can it be a closed system if there's a big opening in the back of my hood......
  #981  
Old 02/02/2007, 11:20 AM
Travis L. Stevens Travis L. Stevens is offline
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Make sure that you have the uncut side out pointing away from the tank's glass. THis will ensure that you have a manufactured edge around the rim of the hole.
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  #982  
Old 02/02/2007, 11:25 AM
first-chevalier first-chevalier is offline
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I'm placing the cut side on the two pvc pipe with the machined side against the glass. I have the rounded piece on the flang inside the tank with the curved, machined piece against the jagged hole and the flat piece outside again with teh smoothed machined side against the glass and jagged hole. Is that right?
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But how can it be a closed system if there's a big opening in the back of my hood......
  #983  
Old 02/02/2007, 11:31 AM
Travis L. Stevens Travis L. Stevens is offline
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That's what I do.
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  #984  
Old 02/02/2007, 03:46 PM
mascencerro mascencerro is offline
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i'm not exactly sure of the thickness, or possibility of use (got the flu, not thinking at 100%), but wouldnt a rubber grommet like used on a car where the wiring harness goes through the body panels work? That would make a 1 piece rubber washer.
  #985  
Old 02/02/2007, 03:49 PM
Travis L. Stevens Travis L. Stevens is offline
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*shrugs* I have no idea what you're talking about. I'm not a car buff I'll have to look into it though.
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  #986  
Old 02/02/2007, 04:13 PM
Paul B Paul B is offline
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A grommet from a car will also work but I would not use either method. Grommets are rubber and soft rubber at that. They rot, as does all rubber. If you really want to make a bulkhead fitting out of a nylon barb (I wouldn't) you should use a washer that you could get from a plumbing supply. They are white and do not rot or stretch out of the fitting like anything rubber will do.
Have fun.
Paul
  #987  
Old 02/02/2007, 08:37 PM
NanoCube-boy NanoCube-boy is offline
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nice write man. bumb...
  #988  
Old 02/04/2007, 02:19 PM
JerseyWendy JerseyWendy is offline
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WOW

Hi Travis,

Another total and utter newbie here, who just finished reading this thread. ( I did skim through some parts, but I've got you "bookmarked" AND subscribed )

Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU for all this information, for taking so much time and writing it all up, and for writing it in a way that even I can understand it.

I became a member here a few days ago (thanks to the super dude from my LFS who guided me in the right direction), and have been busy reading, exploring, oohing and aahing.

My goal is to save up for a 75 gallon - and since I'm a "stay-at-home-mom/housewife - it'll take me a while to "gather up" the funds, but where there's a will there's a way, right? This thread has certainly encouraged me that there's tons of things I can do by myself, saving me quite a bit of money.

Here comes my first question: I'm eye-balling the RR 75 AGA, and am very confused about their overflow system because they say they're rated at a maximum flow-through of 600 gph. Shouldn't it at least be 700 gph to be efficient?

Also I'm confused about their design. I've never used a sump, so this will be a whole new adventure for me, and I honestly don't know how big of a sump I would need with the tank I have my eyes set on (in case of a power outage - which my neighborhood occasionally has). I don't see any "teeth (weirs???) on their overflow.

Am I making any sense? (Sorry, English isn't my first language)

Thank you in advance.

---
Wendy (the ultimate noob)
---
  #989  
Old 02/04/2007, 05:28 PM
TitusvileSurfer TitusvileSurfer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Travis L. Stevens
Okay. This is purely RUMOR as of right now. I have not tried it. Supposedly, if you look at a glass tank with Polarized Sunglasses, the tempered glass looks different than regular glass. I don't know the validity of that statement. I guess I need to get off my lazy but, toss on some cool shades, and make a trip down to our local Petco and see what I can see.
Look at the windows in your car with polarized sun glasses. You need to be looking into the sun and move your head from side to side. The checker board pattern you see is the proof of the pudding.

I just picked up a 50 gallon tank (48x12x20") for $10 at a garage sale. It passed a leak test, though the silicone looks pretty shady. Against my better judgment I am stripping out all the silicone and re-sealing the entire tank using your 'GE Silicone 1'. Tomorrow I am ordering a diamond hole saw set for $7.99 from Harbor Freight Tools 1-800-423-2567. Thank you for all your help, wish me luck on the drilling (and sealing)!
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Our Father, who art in heaven, Hallowed be thy Name. Thy kingdom come. Thy will be done, In the ocean as it is in heaven. Give us this day our daily surf. And forgive us our stolen waves, As we forgive those who pull out in front of us. And lead us not into white water, But deliver us from the tube. For thine is the kingdom, and the power, and the glory, for ever and ever. Amen.
  #990  
Old 02/05/2007, 09:48 AM
Travis L. Stevens Travis L. Stevens is offline
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JerseyWife:
[welcome]

Quote:
Another total and utter newbie here, who just finished reading this thread. ( I did skim through some parts, but I've got you "bookmarked" AND subscribed )

Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU for all this information, for taking so much time and writing it all up, and for writing it in a way that even I can understand it.
You're very welcome. I'm glad that it was able to help out thus far.

Quote:
I became a member here a few days ago (thanks to the super dude from my LFS who guided me in the right direction), and have been busy reading, exploring, oohing and aahing.
I remember those days. Everyone starts out like that.

Quote:
My goal is to save up for a 75 gallon - and since I'm a "stay-at-home-mom/housewife - it'll take me a while to "gather up" the funds, but where there's a will there's a way, right? This thread has certainly encouraged me that there's tons of things I can do by myself, saving me quite a bit of money.
I completely understand. My current work/home situation leaves me with very little play money. The key is not to be in a rush. I've been working on my 75g tank for almost 8 months now, and I still don't have water in it I'm just waiting to move and a few other things. Eventually, you'll get the tank up. Plus, the longer you wait, the more you will learn and be able to get a tank just like you want.

Quote:
Here comes my first question: I'm eye-balling the RR 75 AGA, and am very confused about their overflow system because they say they're rated at a maximum flow-through of 600 gph. Shouldn't it at least be 700 gph to be efficient?
The rated amount of flow is from the size hole that is in the tank. The drain is most likely a 1" drain. This is fine. Just make sure that you don't get a pump that is too powerful that the drain can't keep up. If you feel you need more flow (and you most likely will), then you can supplement in tank flow with a variety of powerheads and pumps.

Quote:
Also I'm confused about their design. I've never used a sump, so this will be a whole new adventure for me, and I honestly don't know how big of a sump I would need with the tank I have my eyes set on (in case of a power outage - which my neighborhood occasionally has).
Get the biggest sump that you can fit under the stand. It will help you with total water volume, amount of evaporation before you need to top off the tank, and a variety of other areas. One thing that you will want to do is to calculate how much water will drain from the display tank to the sump. After you figure that out, you'll just need to make sure that the sump can hold that amount of water. For example, say you drain 5g off of the display tank. Make sure that the sump can hold an extra 5g or more before it would spill over in the case of a poweroutage. Obviously something like a 10g tank would only allow you to have 5g or less of water in it, thus a 10g tank would not be an ideal candidate for a sump. Something on the 30g range would give you 25g or less of water which would be great, plus you'll have enough room for overflowed water.

Quote:
I don't see any "teeth (weirs???) on their overflow.
Most likely it is an All-Glass Aquariums Mega Overflow kit. It doesn't necessarily have teeth. Instead, water flows in the middle of the overflow through slits in the overflow, and then the water has to spill over a secondary inside wall. This is what keeps the water level. So, if you measure from the top of the tank to the top of the inside wall of the overflow, you can use that number in the following equation; (Length x Width x Height)/231=~Gallons. So, since you are looking at a 75g aquarium, we can do part of that equation for you. (48 x 18 x X)/231=~Gallons; where X=Height between top of aquarium and top of overflow wall. Just to move a little further, let's just say that there is two inches between the top of the tank and the top of where the water would stop flowing over. The equation would look like (48 x 18 x 2)/231=~Gallons. Condense it down, and it will look like this; 1728/231=~Gallons. Do the last step in the math, and you will see that there are approximately 7.48....gallons. The end value isn't completely accurate, but it sure helps. Also, you will most likely not have your aquarium filled all the way to the top of the tank. Surface tension will cause the water to back up slightly as it spills over, but not enough to push it to the top of the aquarium. Hopefully that helps explain it.

Quote:
Am I making any sense? (Sorry, English isn't my first language)
You're doing great if English is your second language, and I understand it fine.

Tituse: Thanks for the clarification. I've been trying to remember to do this for over a year now I'll have to find a way to take a picture of it, too.
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  #991  
Old 02/05/2007, 10:20 AM
JerseyWendy JerseyWendy is offline
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Thank you so very much, Travis. You are of more help than I can put in words.

I'm already looking at "modifying" the overflow of my future tank (found some great threads). I'm sure I'll be bombarding you (and other victims) with millions of questions when it's time to start setting this baby up.

Since I am planning on building the stand and canopy myself, I'll make sure and leave plenty of room under the tank for the sump. Is it at all possible to use a rubbermaid (or similar) container as a sump? If so, how does one go about fitting and attaching baffles to one? I do have a 20 gallon tall auqarium, but I'd rather go bigger for a sump because from what I've read, the more water volume I can add the better, right?

Oh, and before I forget, I may have found the tank already.

(I'm doing the happy dance) Step #1 is then accomplished.

Thank you again, Travis - and for the warm welcome, too.

---
Wendy
---

PS. We lived in Oklahoma from 1988-1995 (Lawton)
  #992  
Old 02/05/2007, 10:32 AM
Travis L. Stevens Travis L. Stevens is offline
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Quote:
I'm already looking at "modifying" the overflow of my future tank (found some great threads). I'm sure I'll be bombarding you (and other victims) with millions of questions when it's time to start setting this baby up.
Hey, that's what we are here for. We are either learning and asking questions, or sharing information and answering questions. It won't be long until you are around here helping everyone

Quote:
Since I am planning on building the stand and canopy myself, I'll make sure and leave plenty of room under the tank for the sump. Is it at all possible to use a rubbermaid (or similar) container as a sump? If so, how does one go about fitting and attaching baffles to one? I do have a 20 gallon tall auqarium, but I'd rather go bigger for a sump because from what I've read, the more water volume I can add the better, right?
Correct. The more water the better for MANY reasons. There are a few drawbacks, but they are so minor, it doesn't matter. You can use rubbermaid containers just fine. You might need to be a little ingenious about how to put baffles in, but actually, it's not that hard. One of the easiest ways to put "baffles" in a rubbermaid sump is to just add smaller rubbermaid containers. For example, you can put a smaller rubbermaid container in, use it as the refugium and have the display tank's drain flow into that, and then have a skimmer and return pump in the larger rubbermaid container. You might need to modify the smaller one with holes, drains, slits, or a variety of other things.

Quote:
Oh, and before I forget, I may have found the tank already.
That's great! Good luck with that.

Quote:
(I'm doing the happy dance) Step #1 is then accomplished.
You see, it really goes by quicker than you think. I know I've worked on my 75g for 8 months, but it feels like only a month ago when I started piecing it together.

Quote:
Thank you again, Travis - and for the warm welcome, too.
You're welcome. I try to welcome everyone that I can, but I'm just not as good at it as Waterkeeper

Quote:
PS. We lived in Oklahoma from 1988-1995 (Lawton)
If you come down to visit any family or friends, give me a holler and I'll show you around. Oklahoma City and Tulsa have some GREAT aquarium societies and fish stores.
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  #993  
Old 02/05/2007, 10:40 AM
solenowski solenowski is offline
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NICE
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  #994  
Old 02/05/2007, 01:13 PM
toddc76 toddc76 is offline
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Awesome thread here, This thread alone has convinced me to give a marine tank a second try after a catastrophic failure 5 years ago. If interested checkout my build out thread HERE


I have a quick question for you experts of the watery craft:

I have a 65 tall that will be an in-wall installation with the wet room right behind it. So only one side of the tank is visible and noise is not an issue. So, with that being said, is it worth my time and effort to drill the tank or just use an overflow or 2?

Also, if anyone could reccomend a a good broad test kit I would appreciate it. I plan to go electronic test probes in the end, but not all at once. Any advice would be cool.

-Todd C
  #995  
Old 02/05/2007, 02:12 PM
Travis L. Stevens Travis L. Stevens is offline
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Quote:
I have a 65 tall that will be an in-wall installation with the wet room right behind it. So only one side of the tank is visible and noise is not an issue. So, with that being said, is it worth my time and effort to drill the tank or just use an overflow or 2?
The benefits of a drilled tank far outweighs the benefits of a removable syphon overflow.

Quote:
Also, if anyone could reccomend a a good broad test kit I would appreciate it. I plan to go electronic test probes in the end, but not all at once. Any advice would be cool.
For titration test kits, I prefer Salifert for accuracy. But their price keeps me from using them constantly. I use Aquarium Pharmecuticals for general testing. I'll bust out the Salifert any time I need accuracy, or if it is time for the monthly check up.
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  #996  
Old 02/05/2007, 02:26 PM
toddc76 toddc76 is offline
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Travis, thanks for the prompt reply.

So on a 36" tall tank should I use one centered overflow or 2, one in each corner? I am planning on around 1000+ gph through the sump so would 1.5" be enough for a return?

Thanks for the advice on the test kits, I added them both to my list.
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-=Todd C
  #997  
Old 02/05/2007, 02:31 PM
Travis L. Stevens Travis L. Stevens is offline
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The number of overflows is your choice. In fact, you might want to go with multiple drains no matter how many overflows you have. You can use the calculators on Reef Central's home page (located down the left) for Drain Size Calculator to see what you would need.
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  #998  
Old 02/06/2007, 10:05 AM
toddc76 toddc76 is offline
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I am about to order a pump and some other drygoods. I am looking for a pump that will push around 1000-1100 gph at a 3' head. There are MANY options in this range, I originally picked out a Pan World pump.

Is this a decent pump for the money? Should I be looking at something else?
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-=Todd C
  #999  
Old 02/06/2007, 10:17 AM
Travis L. Stevens Travis L. Stevens is offline
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I would search around the Vendor experience forum and ask around. It would be better to get many opinions on this than just my own. FWIW, I don't have any experience with Pan World, but I hear that they are decent.
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  #1000  
Old 02/06/2007, 10:17 AM
JohnL JohnL is offline
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This thread was automatically split due to performance issues. You can find the rest of the thread here: http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...readid=1038919
 

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