|
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
#976
|
|||
|
|||
Drilling 10g Huzzah!
Houston we have a hole!
Thanks to the strength from our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ I am able to report you CAN successfully drill a Presto Manufacturing 10g tank IF it does not have the orange sticker on it. I was praying the entire time and when the bit dropped through to the other side on the pilot hole I nearly crapped myself and dropped the dremel. It's not the neatest job cutting and hopefully it will seal but it's a hole and the bulkhead goes through it. I filled it and emptied it about five times testing the leaks. Leaked every time. I didn't do a very clean job cutting the gaskets apart so I'm gonna get another one and try to do a better job. That will also give me a spacer for the outside to hopefully help with the seal. Anyway, it's on to the acrylic work for the clafo, painting, and then installing all the acrylic in both the overflow and the sump. Hurray, progress.
__________________
But how can it be a closed system if there's a big opening in the back of my hood...... |
#977
|
|||
|
|||
Sorry, that's perfecto manufacturing.....
__________________
But how can it be a closed system if there's a big opening in the back of my hood...... |
#978
|
|||
|
|||
congrats
|
#979
|
|||
|
|||
I knew you could do it, first-chevalier. That's really great. I've found a knew way, yet more expensive, for those makeshift bulkheads. It seems to work a smidge better. If you run out and grab a couple rubber washers of sufficient size that there is rubber around the edges, you can cut a hole out in them and place them on each side of the glass. Here are some pictures.
First, take the male threaded piece that you will be using and use it as a guide to mark how wide the hole will need to be Though the rubber washers are black, the ink from a permanent marker is darker and shiny Then, take a razor blade or x-acto knife and trim out the middle. Always make sure that you have a solid fit. Make sure that the hole that you cut isn't too large or too small. When the washers are all cut out to your liking, add the male piece first. Add the other washer And lastly, add the female end. Twist down snuggly, but don't over crank it. It should work like a champ.
__________________
Travis Stevens |
#980
|
|||
|
|||
thanks for the tip. The reason my washer isn't working is because I wasn't especially careful when I seperated the two pieces. There are a lot of high and low spots. Plus there isn't enough thickness to allow me to hand tighten the male and female pieces. I would have to use a wrench and I an unwilling to do that and risk cracking my glass.
To solve this I am going to purchase another one of the suggested washers and ever so painstakingly slowly cut them apart. This will not only give me a better seal, but I can use the flat side from the failed first one as a spacer which will allow me to get a better seal. Should work. Solution of last resort is to use silicon and seal the gaskets in there when I install the bulkhead for the final time.
__________________
But how can it be a closed system if there's a big opening in the back of my hood...... |
#981
|
|||
|
|||
Make sure that you have the uncut side out pointing away from the tank's glass. THis will ensure that you have a manufactured edge around the rim of the hole.
__________________
Travis Stevens |
#982
|
|||
|
|||
I'm placing the cut side on the two pvc pipe with the machined side against the glass. I have the rounded piece on the flang inside the tank with the curved, machined piece against the jagged hole and the flat piece outside again with teh smoothed machined side against the glass and jagged hole. Is that right?
__________________
But how can it be a closed system if there's a big opening in the back of my hood...... |
#983
|
|||
|
|||
That's what I do.
__________________
Travis Stevens |
#984
|
|||
|
|||
i'm not exactly sure of the thickness, or possibility of use (got the flu, not thinking at 100%), but wouldnt a rubber grommet like used on a car where the wiring harness goes through the body panels work? That would make a 1 piece rubber washer.
|
#985
|
|||
|
|||
*shrugs* I have no idea what you're talking about. I'm not a car buff I'll have to look into it though.
__________________
Travis Stevens |
#986
|
|||
|
|||
A grommet from a car will also work but I would not use either method. Grommets are rubber and soft rubber at that. They rot, as does all rubber. If you really want to make a bulkhead fitting out of a nylon barb (I wouldn't) you should use a washer that you could get from a plumbing supply. They are white and do not rot or stretch out of the fitting like anything rubber will do.
Have fun. Paul |
#987
|
|||
|
|||
nice write man. bumb...
|
#988
|
|||
|
|||
WOW
Hi Travis,
Another total and utter newbie here, who just finished reading this thread. ( I did skim through some parts, but I've got you "bookmarked" AND subscribed ) Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU for all this information, for taking so much time and writing it all up, and for writing it in a way that even I can understand it. I became a member here a few days ago (thanks to the super dude from my LFS who guided me in the right direction), and have been busy reading, exploring, oohing and aahing. My goal is to save up for a 75 gallon - and since I'm a "stay-at-home-mom/housewife - it'll take me a while to "gather up" the funds, but where there's a will there's a way, right? This thread has certainly encouraged me that there's tons of things I can do by myself, saving me quite a bit of money. Here comes my first question: I'm eye-balling the RR 75 AGA, and am very confused about their overflow system because they say they're rated at a maximum flow-through of 600 gph. Shouldn't it at least be 700 gph to be efficient? Also I'm confused about their design. I've never used a sump, so this will be a whole new adventure for me, and I honestly don't know how big of a sump I would need with the tank I have my eyes set on (in case of a power outage - which my neighborhood occasionally has). I don't see any "teeth (weirs???) on their overflow. Am I making any sense? (Sorry, English isn't my first language) Thank you in advance. --- Wendy (the ultimate noob) --- |
#989
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I just picked up a 50 gallon tank (48x12x20") for $10 at a garage sale. It passed a leak test, though the silicone looks pretty shady. Against my better judgment I am stripping out all the silicone and re-sealing the entire tank using your 'GE Silicone 1'. Tomorrow I am ordering a diamond hole saw set for $7.99 from Harbor Freight Tools 1-800-423-2567. Thank you for all your help, wish me luck on the drilling (and sealing)!
__________________
Our Father, who art in heaven, Hallowed be thy Name. Thy kingdom come. Thy will be done, In the ocean as it is in heaven. Give us this day our daily surf. And forgive us our stolen waves, As we forgive those who pull out in front of us. And lead us not into white water, But deliver us from the tube. For thine is the kingdom, and the power, and the glory, for ever and ever. Amen. |
#990
|
|||||||
|
|||||||
JerseyWife:
[welcome] Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Tituse: Thanks for the clarification. I've been trying to remember to do this for over a year now I'll have to find a way to take a picture of it, too.
__________________
Travis Stevens |
#991
|
|||
|
|||
Thank you so very much, Travis. You are of more help than I can put in words.
I'm already looking at "modifying" the overflow of my future tank (found some great threads). I'm sure I'll be bombarding you (and other victims) with millions of questions when it's time to start setting this baby up. Since I am planning on building the stand and canopy myself, I'll make sure and leave plenty of room under the tank for the sump. Is it at all possible to use a rubbermaid (or similar) container as a sump? If so, how does one go about fitting and attaching baffles to one? I do have a 20 gallon tall auqarium, but I'd rather go bigger for a sump because from what I've read, the more water volume I can add the better, right? Oh, and before I forget, I may have found the tank already. (I'm doing the happy dance) Step #1 is then accomplished. Thank you again, Travis - and for the warm welcome, too. --- Wendy --- PS. We lived in Oklahoma from 1988-1995 (Lawton) |
#992
|
||||||
|
||||||
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
__________________
Travis Stevens |
#993
|
|||
|
|||
NICE
__________________
Steve O 55G Reef - 90lbs Eva LR, 5" Sandbed, 660W URI VHO, 18 Watt UV, ETSS Super Reef Devil W/Quiet One 3000 46G FOWLR - 80lbs Eva LR, 4" Sandbed, 96W 50/50 PC, 9 Watt UV, Remora Pro W/ Mag3 |
#994
|
|||
|
|||
Awesome thread here, This thread alone has convinced me to give a marine tank a second try after a catastrophic failure 5 years ago. If interested checkout my build out thread HERE
I have a quick question for you experts of the watery craft: I have a 65 tall that will be an in-wall installation with the wet room right behind it. So only one side of the tank is visible and noise is not an issue. So, with that being said, is it worth my time and effort to drill the tank or just use an overflow or 2? Also, if anyone could reccomend a a good broad test kit I would appreciate it. I plan to go electronic test probes in the end, but not all at once. Any advice would be cool. -Todd C |
#995
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Quote:
__________________
Travis Stevens |
#996
|
|||
|
|||
Travis, thanks for the prompt reply.
So on a 36" tall tank should I use one centered overflow or 2, one in each corner? I am planning on around 1000+ gph through the sump so would 1.5" be enough for a return? Thanks for the advice on the test kits, I added them both to my list.
__________________
-=Todd C |
#997
|
|||
|
|||
The number of overflows is your choice. In fact, you might want to go with multiple drains no matter how many overflows you have. You can use the calculators on Reef Central's home page (located down the left) for Drain Size Calculator to see what you would need.
__________________
Travis Stevens |
#998
|
|||
|
|||
I am about to order a pump and some other drygoods. I am looking for a pump that will push around 1000-1100 gph at a 3' head. There are MANY options in this range, I originally picked out a Pan World pump.
Is this a decent pump for the money? Should I be looking at something else?
__________________
-=Todd C |
#999
|
|||
|
|||
I would search around the Vendor experience forum and ask around. It would be better to get many opinions on this than just my own. FWIW, I don't have any experience with Pan World, but I hear that they are decent.
__________________
Travis Stevens |
#1000
|
|||
|
|||
This thread was automatically split due to performance issues. You can find the rest of the thread here: http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...readid=1038919
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|