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  #226  
Old 06/19/2007, 03:59 PM
mckibben mckibben is offline
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WK,

I am curing my first load of un-cured live rock. I have 3 powerheads in the trashcan with a skimmer as well. 60 LBS. of rock and 25 gallons of water. My ammonia right now is off the charts, measuring 8.0.

Is it more accurate to follow my water parameters to dictate the quantity and frequency of my water changes?
  #227  
Old 06/19/2007, 04:49 PM
WaterKeeper WaterKeeper is offline
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Water quality is not important because, truthfully, there is no quality at this point. Things are changing from moment to moment and you'd need a team of lab technicians doing hundreds of tests each day to assess it.

I like to do massive water changes at this point until ammonia goes down. All that ammonia is causing more things to die and hence less and less will be left on the rock at the end of the cure. In professional curing lines a line of vats are used. The first vat has the newest rock and after a day that rock is moved down the line. That first vat is then dumped and filled with new water and moved to the far end of the line. The next day the second series of vats are emptied and dumped and the process repeated.

At the stage in the game the more water changes you can afford the better will be the final quality of the rock. Save the money on test kits and spend it on salt mix.

BTW-Using a heater on the curing vat does hasten the overall process.
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  #228  
Old 06/19/2007, 05:00 PM
mckibben mckibben is offline
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Excellent! I have plenty of salt mix and RO/DI

Currently I am keeping the temp at 76-77 degrees. I should have included that information as well.

Thanks!
  #229  
Old 06/19/2007, 05:18 PM
WaterKeeper WaterKeeper is offline
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  #230  
Old 11/25/2007, 02:58 AM
ReefGirlSara ReefGirlSara is offline
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This thread is great - I've read a lot of it, but can't find what I'm looking for. I hope no one minds me bringing it back again.

A while back I read something about using previously 'live' rock that used to be completely covered with coralline, and has since been removed from the tank, dried, and stored safely. To re-use this rock, I was thinking I'd just drop a few pieces at a time in a tank I have set up as basically a QT with some good live sand and LR in it already.

My question is, since it had so much coralline on it before, do I need to do anything to it first to get the dried coralline - which is now white and powdery off of it, or will it be fine to leave it as is?

I have about 25 lbs of it.
  #231  
Old 11/25/2007, 10:59 AM
Radicaljbr Radicaljbr is offline
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If it is dried rock as you say, I would probably just scrub what you can off and then use it as you described.
  #232  
Old 11/25/2007, 04:20 PM
WaterKeeper WaterKeeper is offline
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Dry coralline is dead coralline. You can't resurrect it unless you are a relative of Baron von Frankenstein.
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  #233  
Old 11/25/2007, 05:23 PM
otrlynn otrlynn is offline
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sand, rock, water, what order???

I put my Live Rock in immediately after the sand settles. That is what starts your cycle. Cured or uncured will work just fine, although I do like using at least partially uncured rock when starting a new tank because of the way it stimulates the cycle.

Darren Walker
www.PalmettoReefs.com [/B][/QUOTE]

I posted a thread recently regarding whether live rock should be placed directly on the bottom of the tank, or on top of the sand; the concensus seemed to be to place it on the tank bottom so that sand sifting creatures did not burrow under and possibly topple things. Also, I have read that when setting up a new tank, it is easier to do the aquascaping without water in the tank. So, I am really confused as to what the best order is to add these items to the tank. My actual situation is that I will be moving the contents of a 29 gallon tank to a 58 gallon tank, and adding about another 35 lbs of live rock that I have curing in a small tank right now. I will be using new argonite sand in the new tank.
  #234  
Old 11/25/2007, 06:07 PM
ReefGirlSara ReefGirlSara is offline
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WaterKeeper - I know the coralline is dead - I don't plan on bringing it back from the dead, lol- I just wasn't sure if I need to scrape it off, or let it sit in a vinegar and water bath, or what...
  #235  
Old 11/26/2007, 01:37 AM
shpack shpack is offline
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i'm new to the hobby, my tank has been cycling for 2 months now. I've got figi rock in my system, at first it looked white with some purple on it, now it looks rusty. any advice?
  #236  
Old 11/26/2007, 01:41 AM
shpack shpack is offline
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i'm new to the hobby, i've got figi rock in my 85 gallon, at first it looked white with purple on it now it looks rusty. any advice?
  #237  
Old 11/26/2007, 06:21 AM
pfy333 pfy333 is offline
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Whew, just read 10 pages of great info and I will be crusing in "new to the hobby" for awhile. I made the mistake of jumping into other forums and was pretty much in over my head. I am in the process of building my cabinet for a 90gal tank. Just glad there are great questions being asked.
  #238  
Old 11/26/2007, 01:02 PM
ReefGirlSara ReefGirlSara is offline
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shpak - I'm not sure what your rusty look is coming from, but I'm sure someone out there will know. Sounds like algea growth of some sort, might not be a bad thing. If you post a picture it might help us figure it out. If you haven't posted pics before, photobucket.com is a good tool to use for digital pics.
  #239  
Old 11/26/2007, 02:23 PM
edshern edshern is offline
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moving rock with aptaisa

Iv'e got some rock in one reef tank that has aptaisa on it, that I would like to move to another existing tank that doesn't have aptaisa.
How would you suggest I move it?
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  #240  
Old 11/26/2007, 04:50 PM
WaterKeeper WaterKeeper is offline
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Sara,

Scrub as much as you can off before using vinegar. You can also soak it in a 1 part bleach to 3 part water solution overnight. Then rinse it well and allow it to dry for a couple of days. That removes any bleach residue.

shpack,

Most likely cause is diatoms growing on the rock. Very common on a newly set up tank. They go away on their own in a week or two but are usually replace by green algae. Water changes will help speed the process and adding some snails can also help.

Ed,

You don't want Aiptasia in a tank that doesn't have it. It can be really hard to remove. First use a paste of pickling lime to kill it before adding it to the uninfested tank. Commercial products like Joe's Juice are also used. Dosing these with a turkey baster, directly on the anemone, is a good way to apply them and you won't need the baster until next November anyway.
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  #241  
Old 11/27/2007, 04:40 PM
alittlephishy alittlephishy is offline
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Wow how time flies!! Just read all ten pages. First I must thank Palmetto the Ricordea Junkie for starting this thread.(I understand the addiction)

I'm starting a 54 gallon and really can't wait to see the hitchhiker and kill a few as required. Thanks for the Info!!

Larry O
  #242  
Old 11/28/2007, 12:33 AM
Zoophile Zoophile is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2002
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Posts: 14
Thank you to all the people that obviously have an awful lot of experience for taking the time to reply to such a useful thread! Your patience and guidance are much appreciated After several years of setbacks, saving, and dreaming, my LR will arrive tomorrow and I can't wait to get things rocking!

The funny thing is, I have absolutely no desire to add anything new to the tank for a very long time. I just want to stare at all the biodiversity I hope will survive what I understand will be a stinky soup! Now I just need a way to explain to my kids that I don't actually WANT any pirate ships or SpongeBob decorations in the tank...!
  #243  
Old 11/28/2007, 01:07 PM
WaterKeeper WaterKeeper is offline
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Hi Zoophile
[welcome]

Go to [rk] and show them our Tanks of the Month photo's and they may see why.
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"Leading the information hungry reefer down the road to starvation"

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  #244  
Old 11/28/2007, 01:15 PM
capn_hylinur capn_hylinur is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by WaterKeeper
Sara,

Scrub as much as you can off before using vinegar. You can also soak it in a 1 part bleach to 3 part water solution overnight. Then rinse it well and allow it to dry for a couple of days. That removes any bleach residue.

shpack,

Most likely cause is diatoms growing on the rock. Very common on a newly set up tank. They go away on their own in a week or two but are usually replace by green algae. Water changes will help speed the process and adding some snails can also help.

Ed,

You don't want Aiptasia in a tank that doesn't have it. It can be really hard to remove. First use a paste of pickling lime to kill it before adding it to the uninfested tank. Commercial products like Joe's Juice are also used. Dosing these with a turkey baster, directly on the anemone, is a good way to apply them and you won't need the baster until next November anyway.
Tom, I have one aiptasia that is growing under a large toadstool mushroom. If I use Joe's juice on it will it effect the mushroom in any way?
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  #245  
Old 11/28/2007, 06:27 PM
Lordhelmet Lordhelmet is offline
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don't get the juice on the mushroom. it will burn it. just make sure all powerheads and pumps are off.
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  #246  
Old 11/28/2007, 07:21 PM
capn_hylinur capn_hylinur is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lordhelmet
don't get the juice on the mushroom. it will burn it. just make sure all powerheads and pumps are off.
thanks--in that case I think I better wrap it (the mushroom) first--its really close.
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  #247  
Old 11/29/2007, 11:49 AM
WaterKeeper WaterKeeper is offline
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Yes it is the high pH (over 12.4) that makes the stuff work. It will burn coral tissue and any thing it makes prolonged contact. Heck, I have a scar on my wrist from a lime burn I got while freeing up a stuck lime slaker.
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  #248  
Old 11/29/2007, 12:13 PM
WarrenAmy&Maddy WarrenAmy&Maddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by ReefGirlSara
This thread is great - I've read a lot of it, but can't find what I'm looking for. I hope no one minds me bringing it back again.

A while back I read something about using previously 'live' rock that used to be completely covered with coralline, and has since been removed from the tank, dried, and stored safely. To re-use this rock, I was thinking I'd just drop a few pieces at a time in a tank I have set up as basically a QT with some good live sand and LR in it already.

My question is, since it had so much coralline on it before, do I need to do anything to it first to get the dried coralline - which is now white and powdery off of it, or will it be fine to leave it as is?

I have about 25 lbs of it.


i might be baron von frankenstein


BUT.......

i removed about 40# of lr that had majanos on it
4-5 weeks ago... bleached it sundried it... then let it sit in an enclosed rubbermaid container for several weeks in ro/di - w/ heavy dose of dechlorinator...

it was interesting because
there were little specs of coralline algae on the bleached white rock... i ***-u-ME it is coralline algae (what else could it be?)... they are purple specs all over the rocks... i forgot about the rock until couple days ago - stuck about half in my fuge of the reef and the other half went to fowlr tank... (admittedly was concerned about adding it back to system)...

alas no problems since!!!

perhaps these purple specs
are new coralline from sitting in the darkness dont know... but if the majanos made it threw the bleaching process then they are 'FRANKENSTEINS' !!!
  #249  
Old 01/06/2008, 12:40 AM
Zatko Zatko is offline
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My scenario:

Started my 34 gallon Red Sea Max on 12/19/07. Live sand, RO water (with a little Prime, because I'm paranoid about chloramine), salt, and buffer. Four damselfish are struggling, but since my diatom bloom is receding, they are much better. They had a couple days of labored breathing while staying on the bottom of the tank after being happy for about a week and a half. Now they are swimming around again, so I added some blue legged hermits and an emerald crab.

I brought back some Haitian live rock from my trip down in south Florida, and it has been curing 1 week.

My curing method for ~50 lbs:
Day 1 - after scrubbing off the crud, I put it in a 25 gallon tub with salt + 20 gallons RO water + buffer (I don't listen to the complete darkness rule; it gets ambient light from old T5 fluoros about 8 feet away - I think I'm safe).

Day 3 - another diligent scrubbing with a toothbrush, complete water change, same combo, added heater set at 78F

Day 5 - some scrubbing, complete water change, same combo

Day 7 - complete water change, same combo

Seems to be working alright. It's getting less and less smelly as time goes by. Luckily I work at a LFS and can cure it there, right next to the RO unit, and while on the clock to boot.

Anyway, the rock still smells kind of funky. Definitely not something I want to toss in my tank immediately. Or is it? I have read that cycling a tank with uncured live rock is a way to go, and can be more beneficial in the long run, but take about a month longer than a "normal cycle". But since I added the sand the water first, I'm afraid the rock will let off too many nutrients if I were to have added it at say a two-week hash mark. I know that those nutrients can get deep into the sandbed, causing trouble down the road. But would it be at all beneficial to add my rock after about two weeks of curing and finish the job in the tank? Or fully cure the rock for 3-4 weeks, then add it to the tank?

I'm just debating on whether or not it's worth the ammonia spike that will accompany it. Will this set me back, or possibly move me forward?

I'm just looking for opinions.
  #250  
Old 01/06/2008, 11:23 PM
capn_hylinur capn_hylinur is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Hamilton, Canada
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zatko
My scenario:

Started my 34 gallon Red Sea Max on 12/19/07. Live sand, RO water (with a little Prime, because I'm paranoid about chloramine), salt, and buffer. Four damselfish are struggling, but since my diatom bloom is receding, they are much better. They had a couple days of labored breathing while staying on the bottom of the tank after being happy for about a week and a half. Now they are swimming around again, so I added some blue legged hermits and an emerald crab.

I brought back some Haitian live rock from my trip down in south Florida, and it has been curing 1 week.

My curing method for ~50 lbs:
Day 1 - after scrubbing off the crud, I put it in a 25 gallon tub with salt + 20 gallons RO water + buffer (I don't listen to the complete darkness rule; it gets ambient light from old T5 fluoros about 8 feet away - I think I'm safe).

Day 3 - another diligent scrubbing with a toothbrush, complete water change, same combo, added heater set at 78F

Day 5 - some scrubbing, complete water change, same combo

Day 7 - complete water change, same combo

Seems to be working alright. It's getting less and less smelly as time goes by. Luckily I work at a LFS and can cure it there, right next to the RO unit, and while on the clock to boot.

Anyway, the rock still smells kind of funky. Definitely not something I want to toss in my tank immediately. Or is it? I have read that cycling a tank with uncured live rock is a way to go, and can be more beneficial in the long run, but take about a month longer than a "normal cycle". But since I added the sand the water first, I'm afraid the rock will let off too many nutrients if I were to have added it at say a two-week hash mark. I know that those nutrients can get deep into the sandbed, causing trouble down the road. But would it be at all beneficial to add my rock after about two weeks of curing and finish the job in the tank? Or fully cure the rock for 3-4 weeks, then add it to the tank?

I'm just debating on whether or not it's worth the ammonia spike that will accompany it. Will this set me back, or possibly move me forward?

I'm just looking for opinions.
IMO--remove the damsels--they have suffered enough

put the live rock in the tank and let the curing of the live rock cycle the bacteria. any big ammonia spikes then do a water change
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