DIY Coil De-nitrator

[jtesdall]

Covey, I can't disagree because mine is not working yet. But there are many reports of this working very well. Some folks have been using them for years successfully. The main person in the thread to build these swears by them. I realize some people say Elvis is still alive and that they have seen him, but this is definitely worth a try. I know of one person that I know and trust in GIRS that has seen them in action and working very well. Only not on their own tank.

I will keep the updates coming. Like you say, it isn't expensive to try, but is a patience game. Covey, have you tried them? You are a DIY guy.

Also, you metnion BB, is that bare bottom or bio balls? I don't see how either are going to help nitrates in their traditional use. I am using the other methods and they have me down to about 5 but I can't seem to go lower. I want 0 darnit, like others claim to ave.

[Coralfreak]

You could always try doing Vodka

[jtesdall]

I keep trying that, but the more I dose the quicker I fall over. I just don't understand, my nitrates don't go down at all. ;0)

I know old joke ......

[Coralfreak]

Youre not "dosing" enough

[jtesdall]

You all heard it ...... our trusted coralfreak told me to do it ...... dose more Vodka! So that is exactly what I will do. Allen's advice has never failed me. Urrrr, maybe I will wait until Friday night though. I want to make sure I am here to watch those nitrates drop.

[leeweber85]

Originally posted by jtesdall
I realize some people say Elvis is still alive and that they have seen him, but this is definitely worth a try.

LOL

[mwood]

How are these DIY De-nitrators working for you guys?

[jtesdall]

Welllllll, I had a leak ... so I had to pull the cap to seal it. I was getting a little less nitrate on the output, but nothing dramatic yet. Hopefully I do not have to start my cycle over.

[mwood]

Just out of curiosity, what's the difference between what you built and running a slow drip through 200'-400' of 1/8" tube?

[pangea]

I think the idea behind the bio balls is to be able to "bank" bacteria to eb and flow with the bio load changes. Then you will get a more consistent nitrate reduction. The key to this system is getting the right ratios so no O2 from 1/4 line to bio balls, and long contact time in the chamber for no3 reduction.

This is my understanding after researching and contemplating the build [18-20" x 4" X 50" .170 ID w/4-8 bio balls = zero NO3 on 125gl]

[jtesdall]

Originally posted by mwood
Just out of curiosity, what's the difference between what you built and running a slow drip through 200'-400' of 1/8" tube?

Sorry MWood, saw this when you posted but got caught up in work that day.

The drip through the tubing would be good for the aerobic bacteria to remove the ammonia and nitrites, but as I understand it the water would be moving too fast for anaerobic bacteria to live. The concept is to slow the water down by being in a much larger chamber. That way the anaerobic bacteria can hold on.

But hey I am not an expert at this. I can't even say mine is definitely working yet. But I (as many) have read the threads about how they are supposed to work. Supposedly the design comes from technology used in water treatment plants on a much larger scale obviously.

[badpacket]

Uhh, I'm not positive, but didn't someone say they had multiple 50' lengths of tubing?

150' run would be too long most likely, unless you had the perfect flow. But 50' is most likely too short. I would do as follows to minimize the variables.

1. only have one tube running for now, not three.
2. Connect one of the disabled 50' runs back to the end of the first 50' run.
3. Connect your now 100' run into the pvc.

Your flows will take some time to adjust properly, however you should ultimately see the following:

Nitrates coming out should be lower than coming in.
If you see Nitrites, then you should lower the flow.
Smell HS, raise the flow.

I'd pretty sure this will solve your problem with a couple of weeks.

[jtesdall]

I finally gave up and bought a Midwest Aquatics Sulfur DeNitrator. It cycled in three days and has had my Nitrates at near 0 (undetectable on seachem chart) for about a month. Expensive but it works awesome!

[ZLTFUL]

How much did you end up paying for your denitrator Joel?

I am going to see how much mine come down once I get my sump set up and a big wad of chaeto in it but if that fails to lower it then I will look for options...right now I have been hovering between 5 and 10 for the last 3 months...

[jtesdall]

You don't have too high a fish load so I would think Chaeto and a refugium will get you down. I have Chaeto if you need it. I bought the MW DeNitrator used, new they are $330 small and $440 large. JJ and I can both attest that they work VERY VERY well!!

http://www.midwestaquatic.com/products.htm

[mwood]

Media is $16 a lb. How much will you go through or how much is annual maintenance?

[jtesdall]

From what JJ told me and what I have noticed not too much. You don't add CO2 so the calcium lasts a long time. The sulfur is expensive and I understand it needs replaced about once a year and will cost about $70.

[musty baby]

Is that not just an oversized phosban reactor + media? I guess the question I'm asking is: Why in the hell is that thing $440?

[jtesdall]

I agree Ryan but it works. It seems to be the about the only thing on the market so not much competition. I don't imagine they sell too many and their R&D was probably fairly high. Bottom line, it works and it was definitely worth it to me, but then again I paid a bit less.

[jtesdall]

Oh and trying to build one yourself is one heck of a PITA, IMO. If after 6 weeks it doesn't work you sort of have to start the cycle over.

[mwood]

Pretty sure I've seen diy versions of the sulfur denitrators. Still have to buy the media though.

[musty baby]

I believe he meant a coil denitrator.

Having a thought...
1. Build denitrators
2. ?
3. Profit

[mwood]

I have a coil "cycling" right now, but may make a sulfur if I decide to give up on the coil.