Custom Cabinet for 90g Reef (Build Thread)

[lakee911]

Get an IP camera (network connection over Ethernet) and a controller that has an Ethernet interface. You can then pull them up over the Internet too see what's up and check the stats.

Jason

[RedEDGE2k1]

Being able to see the water on the floor from 1,000 miles away doesn't help much

I have a friend who is reasonably intelligent checking on the tank every 2 or 3 days and calling with updates. So far, so good.

[H20ENG]

Hope your "reasonably intelligent" friend doesnt read RC and see you calling him names. Your tank will get bleached!

[Brandon Cassidy]

I may have missed it on here, but what are the dimensions of your 90 gallon tank?

[Ratpack]

Originally posted by Brandon Cassidy
I may have missed it on here, but what are the dimensions of your 90 gallon tank?

A 90 typically has the same footprint as the 75, but is 5" taller.

[Brandon Cassidy]

Thats what I thought. I figured a 90 was 24" mine is 20" I was thinking of upgrading again, but i just did so I'll wait for 120 or something. Thanks.

[saltydragon]

wow...love the cabinet....it looks really good where it stands......now i have ideas when i upgrade

[wmfsoll2]

Great setup!

You did it right by planning ahead. That is how i have done my tanks. There will always be things that come up during the build, but they will usually be minimal when you have planned ahead.

I may use that program for building my cabinets in my garage.

Take Care, keep up the good work, Bill.

[RedEDGE2k1]

I just got back in town from the 10-day holiday break, and was relieved to see the tank with no immediate problems.

I say no immediate problems because the auto top-off pump wasn't responding to the float switch (it wouldn't turn on and pump water). Apparently it malfunctioned within the last two days, because the water level in the sump was about 4 gallons low.

Needless to say I replaced the Maxi-Jet 1200 pump with another one, and everything seems to be working normally now. The fish and corals are all fine, and the live rock has a good coating of green algae. Looks like the "new tank" bloom is taking place....either that, or my UV sterilizer deserves credit for keeping algae at bay in the past. I turned it off before leaving for the holidays because the plumbing was leaking and I didn't feel like messing with it at the time. I'll see if I can trace down the leak tomorrow, get it turned back on, and see if the algae clears up. Otherwise I'll be adding an "algae attack pack" from Drs Foster & Smith.

Interesting tid-bit, my last name is Smith, my girl's is Foster.

Take care gang-
Dustin

[Cprowler]

Originally posted by RedEDGE2k1 [/B]

Looks good!

I built one that is not too different, here's a pic and all the details are in my thread if your interested. I like yours way better.

[RedEDGE2k1]

Looks good....I don't have the carpentry skills to do stain-grade work

Is that a cat on top of the cabinet?

[Cprowler]

Originally posted by RedEDGE2k1
Looks good....I don't have the carpentry skills to do stain-grade work

Is that a cat on top of the cabinet?

Your far too kind....it looks like you have the skills to do what ever you want, and mine is good from afar but far from good.

I just skimmed through your thread last night, it was getting late. I want to see if there are any ideas I can borrow. I still have minor heat issues in the summer.

Keep up the good work and documentation of course.



Yes the cat had to get up there fist day it was together and now it is his favorite spot.....stupid cat.

[RedEDGE2k1]

This afternoon I finally got around to tweaking something that has been annoying me since the tank was first setup & running.

The drain & return lines on my Perfecto Corner-Flo tank are in the same overflow box as usual, with the return nozzles spitting water back into the tank right in front of the overflow box. This design is common I've learned, but it doesnt make much sense to me -- seems like having the return line on the opposite side of the tank from the drain would make for much more efficient water circulation to the sump. Another thing about this original design is the water isn't skimmed from the top properly, because the return nozzles keep slime & sludge blown to the opposite side of the tank.

Before this turns into a novel, I replumbed my tank so that the returns would be opposite the overflow. I did this with only a couple dollars worth of 1" PVC & fittings from Lowe's.









This simple mod is unseen when the canopy is closed, and really keeps the surface of the water clean & clear. Note I didn't glue the PVC pieces together, I only used teflon tape for a good tight seal so that the pipes can ever be removed if needed.

[kfisc]

Fascinating modification on the return- was adjusting the flow at all an issue? is it as easy as using a gate valve on the return line? Thanks-

[kfisc]

oops- double post.

[RedEDGE2k1]

Originally posted by kfisc
Fascinating modification on the return- was adjusting the flow at all an issue? is it as easy as using a gate valve on the return line? Thanks-

Not at all...just threw on the plumbing mod and turned the return pump back on.

The water surface is now 100% clear and rippling, unlike before where one half was clear & ripply, and the other half was flat and stagnant.

[killagoby]

Tagging along...

[Bkndsdl]

Red, I must say this is a very nice build. I am planning on a cabinet somewhat similar, and was curious as to how you screwed the 2x6 and 2x4's to the front panel; did you drill holes beforehand for the screws in both the 2x's and the plywood? If so, what size? How far do the screws penetrate through the 3/4" ply? Also, when screwing the 3/4" ply top to the 3/4" ply sides and back, did you pre-drill these holes as well?

Sorry for the question onslaught!

[bower23]

Great thread... I want one!! I really liked the idea of leaving the top sides open. Now.. time for me to go to work on mine!

[bower23]

I'm a little confused on mine.... I have three options for the stand now, the 3/4 oak you used, 2x4's with hemlock skin, or cabinets from work (Kraftmaid). Most of the stands I've seen use lots of 2x4's and makes me wonder if the 3/4 oak or my cabinets would be enough. My current stand has 3x4 cherry with 2x4's support for a 72g and it's fine but It's hard to know how much is needed and how much is overkill.

[RedEDGE2k1]

Originally posted by Bkndsdl
...curious as to how you screwed the 2x6 and 2x4's to the front panel? How far do the screws penetrate through the 3/4" ply? Also, when screwing the 3/4" ply top to the 3/4" ply sides and back, did you pre-drill these holes as well?

I used 2" wood screws to attach the 2x6s and 2x4s to the front panel, with no predilled holes. I sunk them about 1/8" in the lumber, so the screws would go far enough into the plywood for a good grip, but not so far that they would pierce the face side of the plywood. I also used TiteBond III wood glue all over the pieces; as the glue is much, much stronger than the screws. The screws are primarily used to clamp the pieces together while the glue dries.

I did predrill every plywood face-to-plywood edge screw connection. Otherwise, the plywood edge will almost always split. I believe I used a 1/16" or 1/8" bit, I can't really remember.

Good luck with your project,
Dustin

[RedEDGE2k1]

Originally posted by bower23
Most of the stands I've seen use lots of 2x4's and makes me wonder if the 3/4 oak or my cabinets would be enough. It's hard to know how much is needed and how much is overkill.

That's because the stands you've seen are probably built by the average DIY'er who knows very little about structures, and chooses to overkill their design in order to feel safe.

Try this -- go into any aquarium store, find the biggest tank/stand combo they have to offer (probably 200+ gallons) and take a look inside the stand. It will be 3/4" plywood, with no 2x members whatsoever.

If the average Joe buys a 220g tank & stand from the local fish store, he never gives a second thought as to whether or not the stand is going to fall apart. Give him some tools and ask him to build a stand for the exact same tank, however, and suddenly he's at Home Depot buying 4x4 posts, 2x6 braces, 6" deck bolts, etc etc etc. It's just a case of "better safe than sorry" in a situation where there is an understood lack of confidence.

[bower23]

My thoughts exactly but just wondered if I was missing something..

[cannarella]

You really need the glue on the edge of the plywood b/c screws don't hold very well in the end grain of plywood. They can strip really easy. Predrilling is a must in end grain.

[itnerd]

RedEDGE2k1,
I sent you a PM.