Tunze nano mod

[GSMguy]

Originally posted by r00onmac
called phishy... they said the box from tunze should be there tonight so if i order now it will go out tomorrow, and should be here by thursday if i pay for fast shipping... im seriously considering it...

call salty critter their shipping is very fair. just to make sure.

ha i love it im equal distance driving to both salty and phishy both are my LFS

[r00onmac]

hmm... now salty has them in hand the guy said... BUT their ground shipping is 8.95 and i need it by friday, so id need to pay for 2 day... and they dont have a price for that on hand...

phishy said the pumps are coming today and should go out tomorrow... and their fedex home (3 day) is only 7.72... but i risk the pumps not coming today or not going out tomorrow...

dilemma!!!...

[r00onmac]

order placed at phishy... i took the risk..

im supposed to have one on the way from a local reefer but he said he shipped it last 2 thursdays ago from about 30 miles north of here and no sign of it yet... and nobody has heard from this reefer in that long either so i hope he is okay.. its an ongoing investigation by us FMAS members

[luntiz]

No wonder my Seio820 feels just as strong...820gph vs 930gph...I don't think it was worth the 100 dollars then...=(

Originally posted by jacmyoung
The stock 6045's pumping rate is 930gph, less than the Tunze claimed 1,189gph, so yes you will notice a significant increase, just not as much an increase as a 6025 mod.

[GSMguy]

Originally posted by luntiz
No wonder my Seio820 feels just as strong...820gph vs 930gph...I don't think it was worth the 100 dollars then...=(

you must not have read this thread.... thats the theme of many pages

[ceramik]

Originally posted by r00onmac
hmm... now salty has them in hand the guy said... BUT their ground shipping is 8.95 and i need it by friday, so id need to pay for 2 day... and they dont have a price for that on hand...

phishy said the pumps are coming today and should go out tomorrow... and their fedex home (3 day) is only 7.72... but i risk the pumps not coming today or not going out tomorrow...

dilemma!!!...

i talk to phishy.they just got them in and shipping out tomorrow

[r00onmac]

hopefully mine will also go out tomorrow... i only bought one, but if i like it ill be placing an order for 1 or two more... i hate the look of powerheads in my tank, but these seem to be really tiny and a great deal for the price... ill be doing the wide flow and full blast mods on page 8 as soon as i get it... it wont be turning on and off unless there is a power outage so i see no reason why either of these will be a problem...

[ceramik]

i am doing same mod, only reason i bought these

[Euclid537]

hmm, fishy

[busterb]

please delete

[dga]

Originally posted by mr pink floyd

a photography lesson maybe...

[jacmyoung]

I am no DC motor expert so want to ask your opinions on my plan for some serious mods for my future 6055.

Roger has posted some photos of his 6055 unit, it showed the transformer rated at 800mA max at the AC end, and 24V/1.2A at the DC end. The 6055 motor should have the same 24V/1.2A capacity rating.

Is my math right that the motor then will have a top watt rating at 28.8W? Tunze specs said the 6055 is rated 18W max. Of course if we try to over drive beyond the 18W we will void the warranty and can not expect any sympathy from Tunze for a premature burnt motor. So I understand any attempt at modding the drive unit will be at my own risk which I can accept.

However in theory should the motor be pushed beyond the 18W without real concern, as long as it is under 28.8W? In another word if the current is below the rated 1.2A max the motor should be safe right? If so what kind of measuring meter should I get to test the DC current in the motor and what kind of adaptors do I need?

At this point I just have a Kill-A-Watt meter which does AC end only.

[skydancer]

Originally posted by jacmyoung
If so what kind of measuring meter should I get to test the DC current in the motor and what kind of adaptors do I need?

At this point I just have a Kill-A-Watt meter which does AC end only.

You'll need a multimeter.
You turn the knod the DC current.
You "break" the path on one side of the dc connection and insert the multimeter with banana clips (in series) and will tell you how many amps are flowing.

[jacmyoung]

Originally posted by skydancer
You'll need a multimeter.
You turn the knod the DC current.
You "break" the path on one side of the dc connection and insert the multimeter with banana clips (in series) and will tell you how many amps are flowing.

What multimeter would you recommend? I don't want to spend a lot on it since it's sole purpose will be to check and make sure the DC current is under 1.2A. How to "break" the DC path without breaking the pump?

[Timbo]

jacmyoung-

Unfortunately, it's just not that simple. The 6055 is a brushless DC pump which means that it is electronically commutated by a circuit board, usually with a microprocessor. Basically, its the programming of the board that determines the speed the pump will run at. Therefor, there's no way to hot rod it. In the case of the 6055, the circuit board is probably epoxy sealed within the pump itself, so you can't even see or access it.

If you want to actually measure the current that the motor is drawing, you will have to cut the cord going from the power supply to the motor and measure there.

Honestly, this just isn't worth it. There's nothing you can do to tweak these DC motors other than opening up the housing to allow for more flow. I believe that doing this will improve the flow through the pump, however, the case size is limited and you may find that the 6055 is already pushing as much water as possible through such a small housing. Remove the housing all together and you've got a totally different ball game, but that's true for any prop pump.

-Tim

[skydancer]

Originally posted by Timbo
jacmyoung-

Unfortunately, it's just not that simple. The 6055 is a brushless DC pump which means that it is electronically commutated by a circuit board, usually with a microprocessor. Basically, its the programming of the board that determines the speed the pump will run at. Therefor, there's no way to hot rod it. In the case of the 6055, the circuit board is probably epoxy sealed within the pump itself, so you can't even see or access it.

If you want to actually measure the current that the motor is drawing, you will have to cut the cord going from the power supply to the motor and measure there.

Honestly, this just isn't worth it. There's nothing you can do to tweak these DC motors other than opening up the housing to allow for more flow. I believe that doing this will improve the flow through the pump, however, the case size is limited and you may find that the 6055 is already pushing as much water as possible through such a small housing. Remove the housing all together and you've got a totally different ball game, but that's true for any prop pump.

-Tim

WHAT???
You absolutely DO NOT HAVE TO CUT ANY CORDS!!!

Jacmyoung, just disconnect the cable from the DC Power supply to the pump. Then use a clip to attach the one side of the Power supply to the one side of the pump (make sure the ground or (-ve) goes with the ground at the pump. The other connection of the power supply connects to a Fluke multimeter in series. (One side of the mutlimeter goes to the power supply connector, and the other side of the mutlimeter goes to the +(ve) of the pump.

PLEASE DO NOT CUT ANYTHING. Later today I'll post a schematic diagram. Or PM me and I'll call you.
(BTW, I know what I'm talking about) I'm a EE, not an ME

[Timbo]

Forgive me, I was under the impression that the power supply was hard wired into the pump. If it's not, then skydancer is right, you need only create a little harness that will allow you to measure the current going in to the pump.

Doesn't really matter anyway, you can closely estimate how much current is going into the pump based on the claimed input wattage...

18w at 24v = .750 A

obviously some of that 18w is lost within the power supply, but this is close enough.

Opening up the shroud will definitely provide more flow, how much more is really the question. The shroud is definitely the limiting factor, that's why if you compare a 6300 to a 6100, the shroud is MUCH more open in design. It needs to be to flow that much water.

[jacmyoung]

Skydancer, please provide me with the diagram, or a picture will be even better, I am no EE nor ME

Timbo, if you look a few pictures back on this thread you will see a 6055 spy plan picture I posted. Yes I will have a much bigger shroud for that baby It will be bigger than the 6000 opening but smaller than the 6200's, which I predict will be just right since the 6055 power falls right between the two Stream pumps.

[mr pink floyd]

i think i need to post here saying i switched over to a koralia. I woke up one morning(thank god it was a weekend) nad there was a loud clanking noise in my tank. I look at my tunze, its running, but putting out poor flow and shaking violently. I took it apart to discover the little tabs that hold the shaft completely shattered, with no way of getting it to stay and run. i tried drilling a hole to fit the shaft in, tryign different length shafts, but nothing would work. I needed a replacement fast, and my local LFS had koralia 4s for 45 bucks(with CTARS discount)

in comparison they are very similar flow, but the tunze does take up less space. If time for getting a new pump was not an issue i would have ordered another tunze, however i didnt have the time.

im still going to watch this thread progress, and see what else you guys can do, however i wotn be able to participate in it

[r00onmac]

you wont send it in for repair?

[chaseracing]

I just picked up my (3) 6025's. I put them in unmodded just to check them out before I removed the tunnel inside. All seemed well. I modded them and the flow is amazing.

Two if them spin backwards everytime they start up and do not reverse. The third is perfect everytime.

I did not mod the front of the pump, so I do not need to do the 6045 reverse flow mod. It sounds like the soft reverse flow method doesn't work well.

What should I do? Any thoughts? I have no idea if they did this before the mod because I hacked into them almost immediately.
I have another 6025 on its way from MD. (Auto backorder shipping) I was going to see if putting a non modded cover on would solve this problem. If so........then we need to figure out another way to fix this. I am up for the challenge.

-=E=-

[mr pink floyd]

a photography lesson maybe...

dga, you dont like it, leave. i really could care less if you like my video skills or not. If you really are that much of a loser to follow a thread just to post because a video is blurry, than please, sell your tank and livestock, and buy a life

[chaseracing]

calm down. let it go. This kind of stuff can make a good thread go bad quickly.

-=E=-

[GSMguy]

Originally posted by mr pink floyd
dga, you dont like it, leave. i really could care less if you like my video skills or not. If you really are that much of a loser to follow a thread just to post because a video is blurry, than please, sell your tank and livestock, and buy a life

dude i think he is just showing us that he cant tell the difference beetween a video and a picture

fwiw your video is fine.

[mr pink floyd]

its a video, like i said, i couldn't care less what he thinks. i just get easily annoyed by people who have nothing better to do than stuff like that