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#1
08/04/2004, 10:25 AM
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250 Gallon Starphire SPS tank
After about a year of planning I am starting up a 250 Gallon 2 sided starphire tank. I have learned so much from others here at RC that I feel I owe it to the collective to try and document much of the build for others to learn. I have a small digital camera, no camera experience, and I still have not learned how to post pictures. But I am sure that will change in time.
Anyway, I will give some details. I ordered the tank from the infamous Mitch at Inter-American or Bow Valley Aquariums. It is supposedly being shipped this Friday, but I am not holding my breath. The Tank measures 86 x 26 x 26. The front and left side are starphire. The tank will have a combo of staggered and euro-bracing. I don't know if that makes sense. It will have two 12 inch braces made of starphire. It will also have about a 1.5 inch bracing around the perimeter to stop splashes and salt creep. I will continue to give more details when I have time. I appreciate any input. 
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#2
08/04/2004, 10:33 AM
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Sounds like a great project. Good luck getting the tank on time. ;-) Keep us posted!
What other equipment will you be using? Where will the tank be located? What are your plans for stocking (aside from the SPS)? |
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#3
08/04/2004, 10:41 AM
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Since I am involved in a couple of other threads regarding Reefflo pumps and Oceansmotion 4-way units I will add some info regarding my flow plans for this tank.
I have recently purchased a Sequence Reefflo Hammerhead pump. The reason for this pump is I wanted to get maximum flow through a closed loop on my tank. I wanted to just buy one 4-way unit (heavy-duty) to keep the cost reasonable. The Hammerhead fit the bill because it has almost 6000 gph flow capabilities and reasonably high head capabilites. Two outlets of the 4-way will be plumbed to 1.5 inch manifolds above the left & right side of the tank. Each of these manifolds will have app. 7 to 10 loc-line outputs for infinitely adjustable flow in the upper half of the tank, without affecting cosmetics that much. Now here is the fun part. The other two outlets will connect to between 4 and 6 eductors each. These eductors will be connected to a bulkhead coming up from the bottom of the tank through 1.5 inch bulkheads. The eductors on the left side will all be facing the same direction. On the right they will also be facing the same way. This should supply a min of 12,000 gph       to alternately the left then the right side of the tank. So, 15 secs of flow through the top manifold on the left, than 15 secs of flow through the right "wave-generator", than 15 secs right top manifold, than left wave generator. This flow arrangement has taken me months to come up with. But I think it is fairly simple, yet hopefully very effective. |
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#4
08/04/2004, 10:53 AM
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That's going to be an amazing setup.. You'll have to get a video up of that=)
__________________
The world is a dangerous place to live; not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it. - Einstein |
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#5
08/04/2004, 12:21 PM
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Maybe somebody that knows better can chime in. How do you make drawings on the computer that can better explain things like piping, tank drawings, sump configuration, etc?
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#6
08/04/2004, 12:31 PM
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I will try to further explain my flow design with words.
The tank will have a central designed overflow measuring app 6.5 along the center of the back wall. The overflow will be about 30 - 36 inches wide. It is going to be just big enough to fit in 6 - 1.5 inch schedule 80 bulkheads. 2 are drains going to the already existing basement sump. 2 Are returns from the sump. The other two are returns for the closed loop from the 4-way going up to each manifold on the upper sides of the tank. On the left side of the overflow drilled into the bottom of the tank is going to be another 1.5 inch bulkhead where the return from the 4-way goes to the left side eductors. On the right side of the overflow there will be a similar set-up, but will also include a 2 inch bulkhead for the intake for the closed loop. The reason for all of the piping done in the tank and overflow is so the tank can be only 1 inch from the wall. I would prefer it not to be this way, but then I would lose valuable front to back tank depth. On the two sides of the overflow the piping with the eductors should be low enough that the rockwork will hide the majority of the plumbing. |
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#7
08/04/2004, 12:40 PM
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This set-up will actually be similar in some ways to Bombers barebottom tank. I will likely use blue cutting board for the bottom of the tank. The back wall and overflow will be overlaid in blue acrylic. Even the eductors are blue, so if they are visible they will blend in well until covered in coraline.
I think blue is a nice color for a tank. It makes it look much brighter then black. Obviously with the kind of flow that I am planning a bare bottom, or cutting board bottom (starboard, whatever) is a neccesity. At first I had a hard time with the look of no sand, but in the past month I have seen a few pictures of tanks with bottoms completely covered in coraline. I personally think that a bottom covered in zoo's would be perfect.  I will also be following bombers advice and allow my LR which I already own to sit in the tank with no lights allowing it to be bacterially driven and not algea driven. This should also allow a significant amount of detritus to be disposed of before the first corals go in. |
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#8
08/04/2004, 01:26 PM
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Does anybody have any experience with the hammerhead pump? I find mine a little noisy right now. But it is partially hard plumbed.
To have a silent tank I anticipate building a seperate compartment within my stand just for the pump. That way I can put some foam on the interior walls of that compartment and the door along with some weather strippping. Hopefully that will cut down on the noise. It is amazing how much space you have left over in a stand, and the flexibility that a basement sump affords. Having my sump in the basement was the best decision I have made yet in reef-keeping. Right now my 100 gallon basement sump is running my 90 gallon bow-front. They are plumbed together with 1 inch clear flexible tubing. Mistake. The barbed ends that connect that style of tubing causes too much flow resistance. I will be changing this to 1.5 inch spa-flex tubing. Currently I am using 2 GenX Mak4 pumps for sump return. I think eventually I will upgrade one of them to something that puts out 1500 gph at 15 feet of head, but in the meantime I think the tank will work fine as it is. There always has to be something to upgrade in the future. 
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#9
08/04/2004, 01:51 PM
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The building of the stand and hood will take place in the garage. That way I will be able to test and tweak everything there with freshwater before I move it into the house. I anticipate that I will spend much time working on the flow, changing manifolds, aiming nozzles & eductors, before I am happy with it and install it all in the house.
I will also work on the lights in the tank while it is in the garage. I currently own 3 - ROIII pendants 2 - ice cap 250 W ballasts 1 - blue wave 250 w HQI ballast 1 - Ushio 250W DE 10K bulb for supplemental lighting I currently own 2 - SLR reflectors for t5s 48 inches long 1 - ATI 48 inch Blue plus bulb (450 Nm spike) 1 - ATI 48 inch aqua blue bulb (the 11k one) 1- icecap 660 ballast I hope 3 - 250W halide lights will work for a tank that is 7 feet 2 inches long. But in the long run if it does not work I will install a linear light mover by Sunlight Supply. The light mover will move all three lights about one foot left to right. I believe that will cover the tank quite well. Give the corals nicer growth patterns to. Not only will this cost less then adding a 4th light, but it is one less bulb to buy every year, less heat, and less electricity. When I build the hood I will account for all these so it will not be a major pain to upgrade in the future. The hood will likely be almost 2 feet high! It will be heavy, so I hope that the 24 inch height will enable me to aquascape and work in the tank without difficulty. Just move the light up and out of the way, and have full access to the tank. I am not sure exactly how this will work, but it will be sorted out in the garage while I can still change things. I plan to use t5s as supplemental lighting. 4 - 48 inchers should cover the tank well. If I go with 10k lighting all around, I think that the blue plus bulbs will be a nice enhancer. I'm not sure though. Living in Canada there are not many nice tanks to look at. But I will buy different bulbs and experiment as I go. I am thinking of getting an AB 10K and also maybe a BLV 10 K. Also, I can experiment with the electronic and magnetic ballasts. I will probably wait until Sanjay comes out with his report on thos bulb before I spend the cash. |
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#10
08/04/2004, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
 Or when having a drink after supper. I will post pictures when my wife is back from holidays with the camera. Of course, that is assuming that I learn how to post pictures.The alcove has built with the tank in mind and there is extra support built in. I don't forsee a problem though, because the center of the tank is right over an 8 foot concrete foundation wall. As for my stocking plans. Well I'm not quite sure yet. I already own a variety of snail and crabs. One 5 inch regal tang, one 6 inch Naso tang, one flame angel (hope he behaves), and two true percs. Because the only coral I have ever owned came as a hitchhiker on LR (mushroom) I plan on taking it easy. A few SPS frags to start, and then watch them grow. My aquascaping plans include two separate reefs one on each side of the tank. The middle area should be the area of least flow, and I plan on some clams in there. As far as other equipment goes, I am currently running a custom built skimmer, similar to MRC. The skimmer stands 36 inches tall, has an 8 inch wide primary reaction chamber (not sure if that is what you call it) and it has dual becketts. I also have a custom made calcium reactor, stand 18 inches tall, and is made of 6 inch diameter acrylic. I believe both should be big enough, or should I say oversized enough to work well. The basement sump has a rather large fuge. Currently I am growing Graciliara (spelling?) and have a DSB in the sump. I will probably take the DSB out of the fuge but will closely monitor nitrate. Interesting note, since I installed the skimmer on my tank the Graciliara is showing signs of discontinued growth. Hopefully because of lack of organics. Right now the hammerhead is running the skimmer, and it is way oversized for the job. I have it throttled back quite a bit. When the hammerhead pump is used for the main tank I will likely use an extra GenX Mak4 that I have, see how that works, and if it works well powering one beckett then I will get another one. If not I will probably buy a blueline 70. The nice thing about my sump downstairs is that it will be big enough to house my livestock in for a few weeks while I get the new tank up and running. |
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#11
08/04/2004, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
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#12
08/04/2004, 10:13 PM
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The stand will be made out of 3/4 plywood. It will be divided into 4 different compartments. One compartment will be divided into a lower and upper part. The lower for the hammerhead pump. The upper for the OM 4-way unit. The second compartment will house all the electrical for the lights, and closed loop. The other two compartments will have shelves and be used for storing aquarium related products. If I can fit a bar fridge into the cabinet I think it will make a nice place to store fish food, and occasional beverage.
The outside of the stand will be finished in kitchen cupboard doors from kitchencraft. This is what our kitchen doors look like. http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/...1mapledoor.JPG For the stand I will use the same style. It will also be in maple but stained a very dark charcoal. The hood will be the same. I have yet to see anybody make a stand like this. Any input would be appreciated |
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#13
08/04/2004, 10:15 PM
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 Sorry for the extra post. Just trying to figure out a way to actually show the picture instead of sending a link to it. |
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#14
08/11/2004, 06:48 PM
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Quick update on progress.
Or shall I say, no progress.  Called Mitch at IA last Friday and he said the tank was done and ready to be shipped. Now it is Wednesday and still no tank, no tracking number. Called Mitch's glass cutter. He said the glass has not even been cut yet. Said, "I don't know why Mitch lies like that, ****es me off. He does it all the time, you're like the tenth call like this today". Got Mitch's cell phone number He said he cut the glass himself and they are soo busy, but it is made and will be shipped by Friday. (Taking that statement to the bank) So, I guess we will see. If I get the tank by the first week of Sept I will actually be happy. If the quality is good, I will have some very good things to say about Mitch. If I ever get the tank, at least I got it for a good deal. (Is it a good deal if you never get it?  )
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#15
08/11/2004, 09:26 PM
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Good gosh!!! were you talking to yourself?
Just jokeing man, you sound excited and for good reason. This tank sounds pretty awesome. Hopefully it will be shipped soon so you can get this bad boy going. I like the bar fridge idea. Fill the whole thing with beer that way you never have to leave your tank. Well other than the pit stops from drinking all the beer I have some new cabinet doors that I am going to use on the stand I'm making for my new tank. I remodel houses so every once in a while I get some bad cabinets so I just save them for times like these. Mine will be a light oak to go with everything else in the house. Post some pics when you get it. |
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#16
08/11/2004, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
I just hope that my stand turns out as good as it looks in my head.
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#17
08/12/2004, 06:21 PM
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I'm just seeing if I can upload pictures from my internet provider's server. I've never done anything like this before. Now I know what HTML means.
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#18
08/12/2004, 06:23 PM
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Cool, it worked. I have 10 Mb of space available to me. But I am able to have 7 accounts with them. So that gives me 70 Mb of space. Is that enough to host video files? It should be good for a few anyway.
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#19
08/12/2004, 07:25 PM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by littlesilvermax
[B]Are your cabinet doors the same kind as a modern kitchen? I'm a big fan of concealed hinges, looks a lot neater IMO. Yeah they are the concealed hinges I don't think I would ever use the cheapy hinges on anything.I like to see the door and not the hinges. |
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#20
08/12/2004, 10:03 PM
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Surfy I noticed in your profile that you have a 90g bowfront. So do I! I'm curioous how you aquascaped that thing, and how you light it. IMO the tank is too narrow (front to back) for a serious SPS tank. More of a FO show tank IMO. That's why I haven't even tried doing corals in my 90. Waiting for my "
bad boy" to be set up. Send some pics if you have some. |
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#21
08/12/2004, 10:25 PM
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M5, 250 gallon tank...Whoa, you must be loaded.
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#22
08/12/2004, 10:39 PM
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First of all, M3 not M5.
 Try 2000 slightly customized silver Nissan Maxima. (hence the name littlesilvermax) Poor man's M3.
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#23
08/12/2004, 10:43 PM
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My mistake...just playin around.
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#24
08/12/2004, 10:49 PM
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Got new tires last year. Had to use up the old.
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#25
08/12/2004, 11:01 PM
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looks like fun!
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Linear Mode
