Korallin Calcium Reactor

[JohnL]

This thread was automatically split due to performance issues. You can find the rest of the thread here: http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...43#post6681043

[Codeman00]

I would spring for the adapter if I were you..those 9V batteries don't last long if you keep the pH monitor on.

[jdieck]

Originally posted by Codeman00
I would spring for the adapter if I were you..those 9V batteries don't last long if you keep the pH monitor on.

I had to quit using the adapter due to electrical noise interference with the readings, The battery lasts about two months on the pin point and I leave it always ON

[CHUCKSD]

Hi all,
I read the first several pages of this really long (REALLY GOOD) thread and thought I would toss in a small tid bit that may help..
I had trouble getting a consistent bubble rate (it would slow down throughout the day and by morning would be off). I decided that the possibility of a leak was high and I took the airline fixtures apart and placed thread tape on them. When I got it back up I found that I could get whatever bubble rate I wanted (I use a pump no syphon). At that point I followed the threads guide to make the appropriate adjustment for my tanks needs. A side note to this is that I did have a bubble issue as well but using the 2nd line with a 1 - 2 bubble per minute fixed that problem completely.
Hope this is useful to someone...
CS

[jdieck]

Originally posted by CHUCKSD
Hi all,
I read the first several pages of this really long (REALLY GOOD) thread and thought I would toss in a small tid bit that may help..
I had trouble getting a consistent bubble rate (it would slow down throughout the day and by morning would be off). I decided that the possibility of a leak was high and I took the airline fixtures apart and placed thread tape on them. When I got it back up I found that I could get whatever bubble rate I wanted (I use a pump no syphon). At that point I followed the threads guide to make the appropriate adjustment for my tanks needs. A side note to this is that I did have a bubble issue as well but using the 2nd line with a 1 - 2 bubble per minute fixed that problem completely.
Hope this is useful to someone...
CS

Where the leaks in the CO2 line? If were they before or after the check valve?
The reason I ask is that I am trying to figure as much as I can about his common problem.

[dragon_slayer]

jdieck

it's been my experience that leaks before the check valve can often give varied pressure on the output side of the check valve but leaks on the output side Usually keep a consistent pressure and play little roll in bubble count variations.

kc

[jdieck]

Originally posted by dragon_slayer
jdieck

it's been my experience that leaks before the check valve can often give varied pressure on the output side of the check valve but leaks on the output side Usually keep a consistent pressure and play little roll in bubble count variations.

kc

That is logical. But in theory despite one case being variable and the other unafected. I am still trying to find why the flow stops as again in theory very small leaks although accounting for variations do not really explain why the flow stops. So I keep on searching.

[CHUCKSD]

Originally posted by jdieck
Where the leaks in the CO2 line? If were they before or after the check valve?
The reason I ask is that I am trying to figure as much as I can about his common problem.

The leak (or leaks) I found are where you attach the hose(s) to the unit. {The pressure screws that expand the hose over the inlet/outlet. I am sorry that I do not know the correct terms} I used thread tape there and have not had any additional problems. I suspect they may leak due to shipping or hot/cold expansion.

[jdieck]

Thanks Chuck. I have always speculated that somehow trapped air migrating within the media (as it does not dissolve) may affect changes in internal pressure making dripping unstable and some loose connections may not only leak to outside but under some circumstances may also suck in.

[Kenfuzed]

Is anyone using a larger circulation pump on their 1502 than the Eheim 1048? I was thinking of using a larger pump (mag 2 or 3) to try and keep the media from compacting. Once my media melts down to the half way mark (30 days) I have to shake the reactor every couple of days to keep it from compacting. Part of the cause is I'm running this reactor to it's maximum and refilling every 3 months (using ARM). I recently added a DIY second chamber made from an old Phos reactor to take up the excess CO2. However if the main reactor clogs then it seems all of the water would go straight to the second chamber and stop circulating through the compacted media in the first chamber. Does any of this make sense?

[dragon_slayer]

i had a Mag 5 on my old 1501, no complaints out of it.

kc

[jdieck]

Originally posted by Kenfuzed
Is anyone using a larger circulation pump on their 1502 than the Eheim 1048? I was thinking of using a larger pump (mag 2 or 3) to try and keep the media from compacting. Once my media melts down to the half way mark (30 days) I have to shake the reactor every couple of days to keep it from compacting. Part of the cause is I'm running this reactor to it's maximum and refilling every 3 months (using ARM). I recently added a DIY second chamber made from an old Phos reactor to take up the excess CO2. However if the main reactor clogs then it seems all of the water would go straight to the second chamber and stop circulating through the compacted media in the first chamber. Does any of this make sense?

By the way, you are suposed to refill the media after it reaches the half way mark otherwise the addition falls very quickly. You can take this time to rinse the remining media and mix it with the new one.

[Kenfuzed]

I've been refilling once it drops below the label which is just under half. I was just trying to keep the media loose from the 3/4 to 1/2 point. I like using the ARM brand media because of it's ability to melt at a higher pH, but sometimes it seems too fine.

[jdieck]

Originally posted by Kenfuzed
I've been refilling once it drops below the label which is just under half. I was just trying to keep the media loose from the 3/4 to 1/2 point. I like using the ARM brand media because of it's ability to melt at a higher pH, but sometimes it seems too fine.

Yes, we need to keep in mind that the media does not dissolve from top to bottom but rather dissolves the surface of each grain and the grain size keeps on getting smaller as it is consumed.
At certain point the grains are small enough that the resistance to flow increases. Mixing the reminder with new larger grains helps a bit at least until some grains get so small that star plugging the flow again.
This effect is reduced in upflow reactors but they suffer from line obstruction due to sediment migration and breakup so bad if we do and bad if we don't, until we find a better way I think the issue comes with the territory.

[tybox]

Im sorry if this has already been mentioned, I have read through several times and have not really found a answer. is there a formula that determins the bpm in ratio to efluent ml/min.

[tybox]

was running 30ml/min and 20 bpm, was getting a ph of 6.88 and alk was comming out about 16 per sailfert test. so this morning I backed it down to 20ml/min and left the co2 the same. the pH started to drop a little after about 30 mins. will check the alk in a few hours.

[Kenfuzed]

Originally posted by tybox
was running 30ml/min and 20 bpm, was getting a ph of 6.88 and alk was comming out about 16 per sailfert test. so this morning I backed it down to 20ml/min and left the co2 the same. the pH started to drop a little after about 30 mins. will check the alk in a few hours.

With an effluent pH of 6.88 I'm surprised you aren't getting a higher Alk reading. Are you sure you weren't supposed to double that reading (32) on your kit? I run my effluent at 40ml/min and 35 bpm and get a reading of 6.98 pH and alk is 34 DKH.

Check out the directions written by dragon_slayer. They are top notch and will get you dialed in perfectly.

[tybox]

that is with reading doubled, the original test came out at a tiny bit over 8. I had every thing dialed in with the 40 drips/min, 10 bpm formula, the alk was coming out in the 30's. I had to raise because alk and ca levels in the tank were dropping(the tank is a fully stocked sps 125gal/20 gal sump). last nite with the 30ml/min, 20 bpm I was getting a reading of alk in the 30's and the ph was between 6.55-6.65(raised slowley over a 2 hour span).then this morning the ph was at 6.89 and the alk was at 16. so I backed the efluent down to 20ml/min and the ph started to drop I didnt get a chance to check the alk because I had to go to work, I will check the alk again in a hour or so when I go to lunch. Is there a fomula so that if you are dripping x ml of efluent then you should have x amount of co2, or should I just keep playing with it.

[tybox]

Rechechked the efluent at lunch. The alk=29DKH and the PH is 6.60 at 20mil/min 21 bpm. I think I am going to try to up the efluent to 25mil/min and see if that raises the dkh a little bit more.


By the way I just wanted to say thank you to everyone that has contributed to this thread.Without it I dont think I would have been able to set the reactor up. Koraline should start using dragon_slayer's instructions instead of there own.lol

[jdieck]

tybox.
Try giving the reactor a chance to stabilize at least 24 hours. If you are not using a PH controller the PH of the effluent rises and drops as the PH in the tank changes with the time of day. Expect higher PH at the end of the day and lower before lights on.
For a more stable reading take it at the same time of day. Again this is if you are not using a controller.
By the way, there is no ratio between effluent flow and bpm as all the reactors are different and also the level of saturation of the incoming water.

[Codeman00]

jdieck or anyone else,

I finally got my GEO reactor and the drip rate is rock solid. Now, I have found out that my bubble rate is fluctuating a bit..anywhere from 31-44 BPM...after I set it to 38 BPM and it stays there for a day or so. The reactor works..now I need to fix the regulator or needle valve. I have the Blueline regulator and needle valve setup shown here: http://www.championlighting.com/pics...ics/co2new.jpg

What is your opinion of the problem? Dragon_Slayer hates the reg...I ordered a new needle valve but haven't put it on yet. Do I need a better reg and needle valve setup?

What could be causing this problem?

[jdieck]

Originally posted by Codeman00
jdieck or anyone else,

I finally got my GEO reactor and the drip rate is rock solid. Now, I have found out that my bubble rate is fluctuating a bit..anywhere from 31-44 BPM...after I set it to 38 BPM and it stays there for a day or so. The reactor works..now I need to fix the regulator or needle valve. I have the Blueline regulator and needle valve setup shown here: http://www.championlighting.com/pics...ics/co2new.jpg

What is your opinion of the problem? Dragon_Slayer hates the reg...I ordered a new needle valve but haven't put it on yet. Do I need a better reg and needle valve setup?

What could be causing this problem?

Well I hate it also but been using it for three years! With a controller that is not an issue but if you do not have one the variation may be bothersome.
If the bubble rate variation is between 31 and 44 I would not even bother. That much variation you will get sometimes with temperature changes but if it goes say from 50 to 120 then there is an issue. Try increasing the output pressure to 25 psi if is not there already. It will give a bit more stability but will make the needle valve more sensitive. Also check your CO2 check valve, if it is hard to open it will increase the surging.

I have been testing a more permanent solution when using a single stage regulator. a surge CO2 tank betwen the needle valve and the regulator. It is nothing but a reservoir maintained at the 25 psi discharge pressure.

[tybox]

I got the ph to 6.7 and has stayed there for the most part and I am dripping 30ml/min and 26bpm the alk of the efluent is only reading 23dkh, should I try and get the dkh of the efluent higher. The reactor held the levels in the tank overnight. I do have a ph controller, I am just using it in the efluent cup as of right now to read the ph. after I got the reactor stabilized I was going to run the reactor on the controller.Also I am running the secondary output at about 10dpm, is this alright or should I try to back it down to the recomended 3-5. When I go below 10dpm the drip eventually stops.

[jdieck]

Irrespective of the effluent flow or bubble rate try adjusting the reactor for constant tank alkalinity and use the settings as a base line reference to set it again if you have to shut it off regardles of whatever the alkalinity of the effluent is.
If you have a controller set it now, there is no reason to wait. Remember to set it in a way that it is not turning on and off continuously but say if you set it up to open at PH 6.75 and off at 6.65 then keep the 30 ml/min and 26 bpm as the set point. The setting will try to maintain the PH between the set range and the controller does not need to go OFF and ON continuously and if by chance it fails the setting will not allow for a damaginf failure as the PH will stay close to the range.
Leave the secondary output as it is. If it continue being an issue you can use it for all the effluent and shut off the primary effluent.

[tybox]

I backed the efluent down to 25ml/min and the efluent alk is at 32dkh, and the tank levels held steady again. So I think I got it dialed in other than some minor adjustments. I also set the reactor to the controller. Thanks again for the help.