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#26
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Toddrtrex
thanks for the info, how did u cut the acrylic, or did u buy ones that are exact fit? if its easier i might just go with acrylic as well im still up in the air about the overflow, just want to get the sump set up and give it a leak test before i get anything else are there any other kind of overflow boxes out there? |
#27
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Only overflow you should go with is Lifereef, Check ebay or here maybe someone is selling there's. I had other overflows and I just got my lifereef 3 days ago and I tell you best investment, really tell the diffrence, I wouldn't trust any other overflow, I had a CPR and I went to work power went out and I had a Huge water mess because power went back on and had bubbles.
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#28
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It came in sheets, want to say 18" by 36" or something like that. But, no matter what size they come in you have to cut them yourself. And it is pretty easy. I picked up a scoring tool (( blue handle in picture below )), it was right next to the sheets at HD. Just use a straight edge and score the acrylic about 10 times, then just snap it.
If you do go with acrylic go with the 1/4" thick stuff and not 1/8", the thinner stuff will work, but there will be so bowing. EDIT, here is a bad picture of me scoring it.
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But Todd is right --- mhurley |
#29
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cool thanks for the help Toddrtrex, i might just get that instead of glass,
but as mention above, he said not to use acrylic with glass, glass with glass and acrylic with acrylic, u have any problem with the acrylic with glass? hmm thats a good point drillsar, dont want a flood in my house when im not home ROFL.. but i though the CPR overflow will only work when air is pump into the overflow. so lets say for instant i use a maxijet to feed air to the overflow box( with the maxijet air thingy), then when the power goes off, the maxijet goes off and there for no air into the overflow, so the overflow will stop sucking up water. right? does that make sense or is it confusing the way i put it? lol or maybe i getting the concept of that overflow wrong |
#30
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Mine oldest sump is at least 4 years old, if not older. The silicone is still holding the acrylic to the glass, so I don't see why you would have any issues. Now, I wouldn't want to make a tank out of acrylic and glass and trust the silicone to hold, but for baffles in a sump it is fine.
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But Todd is right --- mhurley |
#31
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cool thank for all the help,
hopefully i can get all the stuff needed and get my sump up and running soon |
#32
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Just plan in extra trips to Home Depot, no matter how well you plan, you will forget something.
You're welcome.
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But Todd is right --- mhurley |
#33
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Head Loss = Loss of energy from friction. which comes from going through fittings, around corners or the friction of the water against the pipe as it flows. Head loss is typically calculated in feet so it can be added to the vertical height you need to push your water. This way you can look at a pump curve to determine your flow rate.
Here is an example, look at the red line. If the water in the pipe has a combined head loss and vertical distance of 10 feet, the pump can run about 2400 gph. At 20 ft head loss/vertical distance, the same pump can only push about 150 gph.
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Nothing is impossible if you're not the one who has to do it. |
#34
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orbit, I have a 29g display with a 10-gallon sump down below:
I put in acrylic baffles. I did a messy job and they take up too much room - probably didn't even need them in the first place, as my flow is relatively low - but they hold just fine. I kind of wish I had used the extra space for the fuge, since microbubbles from my particular skimmer aren't much of a problem. The HOB filter is just for carbon (changed weekly), which I run 24/7, as I do with the light over the chaeto. I use a Lifereef overflow rated at about 600 gph. I believe Lifereef makes a smaller overflow box now, and I wish I had that one as mine is kind of large. I haven't ever had my Lifereef overflow lose siphon and fail to restart after I shut the power off (knock on wood ). Best of luck with your project!! And Toddrtrex is right - you will make more trips to HD than planned! |
#35
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wishtofish, how is that tunze skimmer??? i'm thinking of getting one to replace my css65... your sump makes me want to clean mine up!
orbit, if you go to lowes, or to a smaller hardware store they can cut the glass to your measurements, i don't think HD has a glass cutting area... good luck! |
#36
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JUNI0R thanks for the info,
hey iwishtofish, are u using plastic tubing for the intake and return pimp? if you are, is there any problems? lol it might be easier than looking for pcv pipes and their right fitting |
#37
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I wouldnt put the cheato i the same compartment as the retur pump, the cheato will probably get sucked through the pump, you could use eggcrate like iwishtofish, but you will want some separation there. JMO
I have a 10 gal. glass sump, with acrylic baffles, and have not had a problem. I believe the original problem mentioned with this was that the acrylic would expand and contract with temperature, but your tank temp should remain constant so it should not be a probem, correct me if i am wrong
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-Eric |
#38
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And I am using plastic tubing itead of pvc. no problems yet, knock on wood
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-Eric |
#39
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xpxdx, I think I like the Tunze 9002 skimmer...I have a little trouble dialing it in just right sometimes, either too wet or too dry, sometimes just right - I tend to run it wet to be on the safe side. I do have a relatively light bioload, though, so that may affect things. I haven't cleaned the internal chamber since I set it up 6 months ago, and it still is going strong. I need to do that. I credit a couple of astrea snails for helping keep my sump somewhat clean!
I think the Tunze is perhaps a little pricey for its size, but probably worth it. I think if I had to do it again, I would buy one of the two models above it (if I had the clearance up above) since I am starting to collect SPS. orbit, I don't have any high-pressure pumping going on, so the thick-walled flexible tubing works great for me on the return pump. I think it keeps vibration to a minimum. I also have my Eheim return pump resting on 4 suction cups in the sump. This helps hold the pump in place (should I bump it during water changes) and also helps act as a shock absorber for vibrations. I am using a washing machine drain hose that I bought from WalMart for my return hose. I was able to attach it pretty easily to my LifeReef prefilter (overflow) box: |
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