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#51
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Another good choice is the ViaAqua reactor. It comes with its own pump and is slightly longer than TLF, although the volume may not be so much different since the TLF has a thicker tube. The ViaAqua reactor comes with its own pump.
I have owned both and so far I like the ViaAqua. I used to have a problem with the TLF leaking from the elbows sometimes and therefore I have had to zip tie the elbows to the tubing. I like the Via Aqua since the exit tubes are barbed and have a nut that then locks the tube in place. Also, the intake tube is a rigid tube of a fixed length. This can be good or bad depending on the depth of the tank at the location you want to place the pump in. I like the idea of the rigid tube for the intake. Just my 2c. |
#52
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I like the kent, I have both and the tlf reactor took a bit of work to get up to speed, for instance, i tested the elbows and they only require 4 punds 5 ounces of force to pop off, which is 3 ounces less than it takes to pull the trigger on my kimber custom II the screw on lid on the tlff is definately cool, but the GFO.. granualr feric oxide (pelitized rust) falls through the sponge pad and if you are using it in the sump, the paper label will likely polute your tank so it needs to be removed. the kent input and output tubs point down so it is more compact in your sump but the twist n snap lid is a PITA if you don't put vacaline on the oring
i am using the Mini-Jet 404 Powerhead on both of mine which, unless you already have a >100 gph pump is the way to go as you can adjust it's gph
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A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them G.Washington |
#53
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What is the max and min flow rate for this reactor? It should be slow right? The slower the better? Can I put two together and just use one pump at a slow flow rate?
Carbon could be bad for fish if it is not washed properly. The carbon dust causes fish to get a disease that causes holes in their heads and eventually killing them. Last edited by leoslizards; 01/02/2008 at 10:40 AM. |
#54
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carbon--this is why I like running it in a phosban reactor--two filters at each end.
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"evrr bean to sea Billy--evrr smelled a fish?" "Aye capn..experience is the best teacher" |
#55
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Flow rate through the Phosban is determined visually. You want the flow adjusted so the top surface of Phosban media looks like a pot of water just before it starts to boil. Also, it is fine to run two reactors off one pump. I do it and it works great. I've never heard stories about the dust causing Hole in the Head or HLLE (I've always read it's a nutrition issue), but if you are worried about carbon dust, reactors are the best way to go. There is a filter pad at each end and you can purge all the dust by directing the reactor output into a bucket when you first start it. |
#56
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seapug--please explain the two reactors with one pumb?
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#57
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Ok thanks for the responses. I wanted to know the flow rate so that I can buy the perfect pump for it. I don't want to buy a pump which is overkill for the reactor and won't ever be used to it's fullest potential. Plus I'll save money buy buying the smaller weaker pump.
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#58
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Pump sits in sump. 1/2" tubing goes from pump to reactor with carbon, 1/2" output of reactor with carbon goes to input of reactor with PhosBan. I use the valve on the input of the one running the PhosBan to slow the flow to the proper rate. Output of reactor with Phosban empties back into sump. You can theoretically inifnitely "daisy chain" them together like this to run various types of media-- carbon, GFO, Purigen, etc. Just put the GFO last, that stuff is a bit expensive and needs slow flow, so you can extend it's life by "cleaning" the water as much as possible before it goes into it. Make sense? |
#59
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I am setting up a 125 gallon. I have 2 TLF reactors (one for carbon, one for Phosban Media). I plan on daisy chaining them together in the sump. Will the MiniJet 404 be sufficient?
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#60
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Minijet 404 is fine. You'll be surprised how much you'll still have to crank back the flow valve on the reactor to keep the GFO from turning into a dust cloud.
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#61
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take a look at my post on the second page--I posted a picture of a typical setup for phosban reactors.
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"evrr bean to sea Billy--evrr smelled a fish?" "Aye capn..experience is the best teacher" |
#62
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Is there a smaller pump then the Minijet 404?
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#63
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The Micro-Jets might be slower.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
#64
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Thanks for the replies. I seen capn_hylinur's set up on pg 2. So, for optimal performance should I use 2 pumps total (1 for each reactor) or would one pump total for both be best?
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#65
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Either way will work, but using one pump might require a stronger unit.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
#66
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I use 1 pump with a T bar to split the output. I also have the reactor with the GAC in reverse flow so the flow pushes the media down rather than up. However, you can't reverse flow with the phosphate remover as it will clump together.
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I've spent a lot of money on booze, women and fish. The rest I just squandered. |
#67
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but two valves come with the reactors so if you use a stronger pump like Bertoni suggested you still can control the flow individually.
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"evrr bean to sea Billy--evrr smelled a fish?" "Aye capn..experience is the best teacher" |
#68
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I didn't buy any pump, I put a TEE in my return pump line and used the included valve that came with my TLF reactor to slow the flow to the speed I need.
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#69
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#70
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i have a TLF running GFO from the return back into the overflow so that it runs back into the skimmer. I just ordered last week another for the carbon. Should I also run it the same way or can the carbon just empty back into the return?
thanks
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90G bowfront corner reef tank-1.7 years- Calcium:450-Nitrates:15-Nitrites:0-Ammonia:0-PH:8.0 temp:78-S.G.:1.026-dkh:9 95lbs LR- 4" LS Base- 2 DE 150w MH 20k |
#71
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I don't understand your setup, but I'd run the reactor out of and back into the same area of the sump, or put them on a T off the return line.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
#72
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I pump the water out of the return through the reactor and dump it back into the overflow so that it is processed via the skimmer again to get out any pieces that may escape the sponges. That way I all but insure that none of the GFO ever gets into the main tank or any dust that may linger after repeated washings in RO/DI after changing out the media. I just wasn't sure if I needed to do the same on the carbon or not....I guess I probably should to be safe....
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90G bowfront corner reef tank-1.7 years- Calcium:450-Nitrates:15-Nitrites:0-Ammonia:0-PH:8.0 temp:78-S.G.:1.026-dkh:9 95lbs LR- 4" LS Base- 2 DE 150w MH 20k |
#73
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I probably wouldn't bother with the more complicated plumbing, but I don't think it'll hurt anything, if I understand the setup.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
#74
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Well I decided to save my money and make my own! I'll post it in the DIY section once I got it running.
The only question I got is..... What media to use? Phosban - 150g - $20 shipped, Seachem PhosGuard - 1200g (I think) - $31.98 shipped, PhosPure Filter Media - 150g - $17.98 shipped or 454g - $30.79 shipped or, Granular Ferric Oxide - 453g - $30.99 shipped. They have a new High Capacity Granular Ferric Oxide but it's $20 more than I would like to spend. Does anyone recommend another brand besides these? |
#75
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There's no objective data available. The PhosAR HC from Warner has gotten good reviews, and PhosBan and Phosphate Killer have worked for me.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
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