|
|
|
|
#1
09/21/2006, 04:15 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Overbuffered tank help?
I searched and found a few threads here and there about adding too much buffer to a tank and solutions, but nothing too concrete.
Obviously since the tank is just overbuffered and all my other params, except obviously Ca, are fine, I need a way to bring the KH down without bringing the pH down and quickly. Since the tank just finished cycling anyway the only things in the tank are sand, liverock, and chaeto so harming livestock is not an issue. The LFS said to just dump liquid calcium into it and beings that they are a seesaw it would offset the buffer without harming anything else as well as the added benefit of the calcium. That seemed off to me, just because KH determines how much Ca precipitates out it doesn't neccesarily hold that the opposite is true, maybe I'm wrong, hoping someone can tell me. I read about using selzter water but I'm not so keen on that either, anyone have any experience with this? |
|
#2
09/21/2006, 04:39 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Just how high is your KH right now ? And whats your calcium level ?
|
|
#3
09/21/2006, 07:59 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
__________________
When people are nuts about their pets it's easy to sell them sh*t they don't need - Penn Jillette |
|
#4
09/21/2006, 09:22 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I added some liquid Calcium before I went to work upon returning here are the water parameters:
Ca: 260 ppm dKH: 30 degrees pH: 7.8 Before I started this the pH was fine and the dKH was around 40, which is odd that the pH would drop before the kH did... |
|
#5
09/21/2006, 10:16 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Since you do not need to worry about any live stock. I would change 90% of the water at one time. This will correct any parameter issues and you should do a large water change after a cycle any way. I after the water change monitor your parameters for a week or so to make sure they are stable. Only replace additives when the test shows they are low until you become familiar with how much your tank uses.
__________________
Brad "The only true wisdom is in knowing you know nothing." - Socrates |
|
#6
09/22/2006, 08:09 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Yeah, I'd probably do several very large water changes to bring the parameters back into check. If there is Live rock in the system make sure to match temp and salinity.
What exactly was added to the tank to knock the parameters off this much anyway? Also what salt are you using, and are you using RO/DI? |
|
#7
09/22/2006, 09:26 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
The only thing added to the tank was Kent SuperBuffer dKH. And that was because upon first filling it I had a terrible time getting the pH to balance right (it wanted to stay around 7.8 for some reason) even after the correct amount of buffer was used. I use RO, I can't be sure it is DI, but it was purchased at Sailfin so I'm sure someone else here could answer that.
I use oceanic salt. I will try the water change as you stated and give it a day or two to let the levels settle and retest. Obviously using buffer to manage a low pH isn't going to help me in this situation is there a specific product anyone has had success with for raising pH without raising alkalinity? |
|
#8
09/22/2006, 10:10 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Wow, what brand test kits are you using ?
It is almost impossible to have 260 calcium using Oceanic Salt. That salt tests in the high 500's right out of the bucket. Unless your sg is way low. 2nd, pH buffer is not a good way to maintain pH. As you can see it will raise alk through the roof. I still doubt its 30 dkh though. Limewater is a good way to maintain pH. I would do a major water change and check on those test kits. If you want to understand your water better and what limewater is all about, go th the Reef Chemistry Forum here on Reef Central and under Reef Chemistry Articles, read up on Randy's take on all this stuff. |
|
#9
09/22/2006, 12:26 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I have a pretty decent understanding how how water chemistry works, just not why all of a sudden the kh went through the roof. This tank was up and running before I moved down here and I never had any problems. I cracked the glass during the move and had to let it sit for a few days until I got the new one shipped out here.
I would use limewater but I don't have dosing equip and its a nano so I don't want to have the pumps and whatnot laying off to the side (aesthetics obvoiusly). I'll try the water changes and see what happens. Maybe it was one of those fluke things... |
|
#10
09/26/2006, 09:15 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
As an update after water changes and the addition of liquid calcium the parameters are:
dkh: 13 pH: 7.8 caclium: 380/400 So about one more water change should fix it, thanks for those who offered advice. I have one more question: Since all I did was lower the buffering capacity without exhausting it why is my ph still low? Once I reached the kh I wanted shouldn't the buffer have raised the ph back up to 8.3? Is there something I'm missing? |
|
#11
09/26/2006, 09:36 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Low pH is almost always an excessive CO2 problem in the home. If you keep using buffer to raise pH your alk will climb through the roof.
More fresh air to the room or limewater are your best options. Its getting cool out now. Try opening a window in the room to get more fresh air in and you will see your pH rise. 
|
|
|
Linear Mode
