Is your Water Actually Clear?

asonitez · #1 12/26/2007, 11:09 AM

For the first time ever I feel as if my sump is not adequate enough.... Is your water actually clear????? I'm thinking its my Actinic lighting thats showing up every single stupid bubble in my tank.

In either case..

I am using a Oceanic model 2 sump... Solidly built and well constructed...All glass.. piece of CARP! yes.. not CRAP CARP....

I cannot seem to get the Micro Air Bubbles out of my Fish tank!!!!!!!!!!!

My Drain goes into a filter sock on the far end of the sump with barely nary a splash... the water is then processed by 2 reactors 1 Phosphate 1 Nitrate and then allowed to go through baffle #1 and under baffle #2 to my return pump (Mag 12). It should be noted that water is able to flow freely around the reactors that are standing in sump. I cannot seem to get rid of the micro bubbles.

I have removed my skimmer completely and stopped it. The return pump (mag 12) is completely submerged and is being regulated through a ball valve. but mostly it is left wide open. It also has a prefilter sponge around the intake to try and reduce the particles and airbubbles....if there ARE any.

I'm using a MTC skimmer which is great but it kicks up more bubbles than there are hobo's in NYC seriously... I think I might have to purchase some PVC and route it above the surfave of the water.

Steps I've taken to clear my water:

Removed my Skimmer
(Plan on putting it back in after mods to the output are done to raise the output above the surface of the water.

Placed a prefilter sponge around the intake of the return pump.

Added a Diatom filter which seems to just add more micro bubbles into the water. I can't seem to stop it from producing bubbles. I have now directed the OUTPUT from being in the tank to Straight down into the over flow compartment. My Theory is the water will be cleaned through the filter ad then shot down through the overflow boxs where it will be processed by phosphate, and nitrate remover, carbon and then returned to the tank.

I have also hooked up a Canister filter filled with sponge and floss media to try and regulate the bubbles. I don't know what to do anymore. I left it running at about 2:30 last night and this morning there were still some particles in the water column but the water was visibly cleaner.

KyleO · #2 12/26/2007, 11:30 AM

Are you pushing or pulling water from your sump back to your tank? I had the same issue where I had a chiller in-line with my sump return and was "pulling" water from my sump to the tank. I always had micro bubbles!

Once somebody suggested (through a thread much like this one) that I "push" the water from the sump all the way to my tank, my water is crystal clear........

Hope that helps you like it did me.

LobsterOfJustice · #3 12/26/2007, 11:30 AM

My tank actually looks clearer under actinic only. I'm thinking you either have too much flow coming through the sump, or a small leak in the return plumbing which is acting as a venturi and sucking air in. I would try throttling back the return.

sscherin · #4 12/26/2007, 11:32 AM

It could be a leaky fitting on the return line sucking in air as micro bubbles.
If you look in the sump are there micro bubbles in the water around the Mag?

Craig Lambert · #5 12/26/2007, 11:33 AM

I would guess that the problem is your return pump. It could be cavitating, or moving too much water through the sump too quickly so microbubbles are unable to rise to the surface. What size is the tank? Your return pump should move 3-5 times the tank volume per hour.

mnestroy · #6 12/26/2007, 11:44 AM

I agree with above post, how many gallons is your display tank and how many gallons is your sump?

The key to a good sump is SLOOOOOOW water movement..

scottdwh · #7 12/26/2007, 01:22 PM

Glad you brought this up, I was going to get a Mag 12 for my return on my 120 gallon w/ a 30 gallon sump. Thinking now it would be better to get a Mag 9.5 instead.

mnestroy · #8 12/26/2007, 01:30 PM

Yah, the goal of a sump is not to have water rushing through it... if you keep a fuge in your sump your pods and macro do much better is slow water.

Obvisouly you need to figure in headloss when deciding what return pump to buy, if you putting your fuge 15ft below in your basement then a larger pump would be required.

If your after flow for your tank having powerheads or a closed loop is prob you best bet.

I have a 40breeder display with a 20L sump. I've tried Mag 3, Mag 5 and an Eheim 1250. I found the eheim 1250 gives pretty good results, when I use larger pumps I get micro bubbles, extra heat, and my overflow is much louder (which may not be the case for yourself or the sound may not bother you)

scottdwh · #9 12/26/2007, 01:52 PM

I am going to have about 4-5' of head so I would be looking at about 750 gph with the mag 9.5 which is almost perfect. I definately want it quiet as possible so hopefully this will help. For flow I am either going to go with a Dart or Barracuda on a CLS. Sorry to hijack, thanks for all the help.

usmc121581 · #10 12/26/2007, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by scottdwh
Glad you brought this up, I was going to get a Mag 12 for my return on my 120 gallon w/ a 30 gallon sump. Thinking now it would be better to get a Mag 9.5 instead.

I have a MAG 12 on mine but a ball vavle to slow it down.

asonitez · #11 12/26/2007, 03:07 PM

i think your right. It migth be the mag 12.... I think i was using the return loc lines to try and create another type of movement for my water but with 3 Sure Flow modded Maxijets in the tank i dont think i really need the added flow from the loc lines.. I will turn down my return pump and see if that fixes the problem.

Wrench · #12 12/26/2007, 03:12 PM

To clear my water and rid my tank of bubbles I did 3 things.

1.) I setup a carbon reactor.
2.) Filter socks on the drains
3.) Perhaps the biggest factor in reducing bubbles was to lower the powerheads in the display tank a little farther under the surface. The little waves created by the surface turbulence were causing little bubbles to be created and they were getting sucked through the powerheads. I raised the water level in the display just a bit and lowered the powerheads..........problem solved.

mnestroy · #13 12/26/2007, 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Wrench
To clear my water and rid my tank of bubbles I did 3 things.

1.) I setup a carbon reactor.
2.) Filter socks on the drains
3.) Perhaps the biggest factor in reducing bubbles was to lower the powerheads in the display tank a little farther under the surface. The little waves created by the surface turbulence were causing little bubbles to be created and they were getting sucked through the powerheads. I raised the water level in the display just a bit and lowered the powerheads..........problem solved.

How would a carbon reactor reduce bubbles?

Wrench · #14 12/27/2007, 08:45 AM

It doesn't. It removes tannins and other particulate matter that can cloud your water.

KyleO · #15 12/27/2007, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by asonitez
i think your right. It migth be the mag 12.... I think i was using the return loc lines to try and create another type of movement for my water but with 3 Sure Flow modded Maxijets in the tank i dont think i really need the added flow from the loc lines.. I will turn down my return pump and see if that fixes the problem.

and definitely look for leaks in your return line..........I am betting that is what your actual problem is

asonitez · #16 12/27/2007, 04:49 PM

leaks? hmmmm in my return line i have the MAG 12 going into a threaded 3/4" adapterthen from that into a ball valve and from that into a threaded 3.4inch barb... I'm gonna try and use a bunch of plumbers dape and see if that does the trick. I think thats what the problem is actually.

KyleO · #17 12/27/2007, 05:10 PM

I use aquarium silicone for all my threaded and barb connections. Easy and cleans up no problem down the road...........