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  #51  
Old 12/13/2007, 06:08 PM
Alaska_Phil Alaska_Phil is offline
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Location: North Pole
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I get a little bit of shimmer on my PC lit tank but using lots of surface agitation. It's not as dramatic as from a Halide though. I use a powerhead aimed up about 45 degrees from just below the surface. For a large tank you may need 3 or more set up like that to see any significant shimmer from your T5's.
  #52  
Old 12/14/2007, 01:21 PM
neepsync neepsync is offline
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I just recently put two of the Current Powerbrite LED modules on my setup. I use pc's (520W total) rather than T-5's. The LED's are situated near the center of the tank about 4 inches off of the surface. They produce some shimmer on the higher up rock structures. I guess they produce about half as much shimmer as I was hoping but not as bad as I expected. Oh, my tank is 24" deep. But with said, I'm axing my pc's for 2x250 MH. I want more shimmer and intensity. But the Powerbrites will work great for nighttime.
  #53  
Old 12/14/2007, 11:44 PM
tbone28 tbone28 is offline
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Location: Bay Area, CA
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I just tried this high-power LED spotlight, and didn't get a shimmer. I think I either have too many bulbs, or they're too bright. If I just leave my dusk/dawn bulbs on, then I get the shimmer.

http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/...&productId=261
  #54  
Old 12/15/2007, 12:34 AM
wabio wabio is offline
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You need a high intensity spot-focus single source light. It's definitely possible using LED's. The problem is....I don't know if anyone has made a product yet. There are flashlights out there using the latest CREE Q5, or Rebel LED's that are bright as heck (see link). You can also visit Candlepowerforums.com for more info, but I'm warning you....those guys are nutzos!

http://www.dereelight.com/dbs-2stage.htm
  #55  
Old 12/15/2007, 01:09 AM
hahnmeister hahnmeister is offline
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Many of the systems made by companies like Seaqualux use a computer to 'flicker' the LED's as well to create a flicker like the shimmer of halides.
__________________
"If at first, the idea is not absurd, then there is no hope for it"
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  #56  
Old 12/24/2007, 08:12 PM
JMBoehling JMBoehling is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 1,452
Quote:
Originally posted by guido_kp
there was a thread on this a couple months ago...check it out

here

poor guy got ripped on pretty badly. i wonder if it started growing lots of algae?
I am the poor guy that got ripped

I am extremely happy with my T5-Halogen combo.. It's been 1 month running them and I can say my SPS are doing great (Actually the Halogen may have bumped up my PAR a bit or the shimmer caused my SPS to grow faster ) I have no additional algae growth, my tank temp stays at 78 without a chiller and no ill effects from the "UV" everyone said would cause problems.

I can honestly say, my reef looks great under my current setup. It's really gonna suck when I have to replace the bulbs next year...At $ 4.75 a piece

Later,

Jim
  #57  
Old 12/24/2007, 08:35 PM
JMBoehling JMBoehling is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 1,452
Here's a video.




Later,

Jim
  #58  
Old 12/24/2007, 09:05 PM
DarG DarG is offline
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Not quite the shimmer of halides and I dont think I would do it, an extra 200 watts of incandescent for shimmer is kinda defeating the purpose of all T5 in a couple of ways. But it's cool anyway and whatever works and makes one happy, I'm all for it.
I did the same basic thing years ago BTW. I used a couple of lower wattage spots in cheap reflectors for shimmer on a fish only that was lit by 2 or 3 NO flourescents. This was 20 years ago.
  #59  
Old 12/25/2007, 01:23 PM
JMBoehling JMBoehling is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Richmond, VA
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I tried the LED's but they aren't strong enough to over power the T5's, so you don't see any shimmer. Got some great moonlights now..

For a "Cheap" shimmer effect, Halogen's work.. No they are not a crisp as Halides, but the bulbs cost a 1/20 of Halide bulbs to replace and still use less juices than running (02) 150 watt or (02) 250 Halides. You don't need a ballast either, just a cheap shop light, a couple cheap parbolic reflectors and your done.

The main reason I added these was I like the shimmer I get from the natural sun through my Solar Tube Skylights, but in the evening or cloudy days, I missed it. Now I have very similiar shimmer in the evening with a quick switch on to my Halogen bulbs.

The trickiest part is offsetting the 6000k Halogen bulb color with the right mix of Blues and Actinics of T5's.. Right now, I run it bluer than most people, close to 15000k range... I use (02) Uri Super Actinics, (01) Ati Blue and (01) Geissman Aquablue Plus (10k)

My Video didn't have the Geismann Aqua Blue Plus bulb on so it is bluer than normal.

Funny how many Halide bulbs people will try to get the right color my replacing bulbs from 10k, to 14k, to 15k to 20 k ..From Hamiltons, to XM, to Iwasaki, to Phoenix, etc, etc . At $ 75.00 to $100.00 per bulb that has to get old quick.

All I have to do is switch out a T5 and can dial in the color exactly the way i like it... Just trying to give the author a suggestion that helped me achieve exactly what he was asking for, for CHEAP...

Later,

Jim
  #60  
Old 12/25/2007, 01:45 PM
tbone28 tbone28 is offline
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JMBoehling - I'm glad the halogens work out for you! And thanks for posting your experiences. For my application, however, I made the switch from halides over to T5's soley for electricity savings. I live in CA! I'm with DarG on this one - I can't justify adding 200w of lights just to get a shimmer, when my T5's are only pulling 624w.
  #61  
Old 12/25/2007, 02:49 PM
DarG DarG is offline
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Like I said, it's cool that it works for you and thats all that really matters. Personally, I would think it would make more sense to use dual halides, 150 watt, with electronic ballasts as they would be a much more usable lighting source for the corals in combination with T5's compared with two halogen spots. If you are going to add 200 watts just for shimmer, you may as well add 100 more and do the corals some more good. In fact, you would probably get more shimmer from a couple of 70 watt halides and still get more beneficial light into the tank with those compared to two incandescent spots.
Regardless, it all defeats the purpose for those that choose all T5 in large part for the energy savings.
For those who choose T5 and want to add shimmer, dont consider the energy use and absolutely dont want the expense of halide bulbs, reflectors and ballasts or the hassle of integrating them in, then it may be a good, cheap option.

But again, it works for you so thats all that really matters.
  #62  
Old 12/25/2007, 03:04 PM
JMBoehling JMBoehling is offline
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Location: Richmond, VA
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Quote:
Originally posted by DarG
Like I said, it's cool that it works for you and thats all that really matters. Personally, I would think it would make more sense to use dual halides, 150 watt, with electronic ballasts as they would be a much more usable lighting source for the corals in combination with T5's compared with two halogen spots. If you are going to add 200 watts just for shimmer, you may as well add 100 more and do the corals some more good. In fact, you would probably get more shimmer from a couple of 70 watt halides and still get more beneficial light into the tank with those compared to two incandescent spots.
Regardless, it all defeats the purpose for those that choose all T5 in large part for the energy savings.
For those who choose T5 and want to add shimmer, dont consider the energy use and absolutely dont want the expense of halide bulbs, reflectors and ballasts or the hassle of integrating them in, then it may be a good, cheap option.

But again, it works for you so thats all that really matters.


Later,

Jim
  #63  
Old 01/02/2008, 02:24 AM
StrategicReef StrategicReef is offline
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Location: Livermore CA
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What if you get a couple of driving lamps from the store and try it out, they run on 12V and if I remember correctly they are around 55W @ 12V. I think it will show a bit of shimmer. They are not expensive either for example

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37349
  #64  
Old 01/02/2008, 02:50 AM
Zestay Zestay is offline
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could always get a retro 70 watt MH set up.
  #65  
Old 01/02/2008, 03:56 AM
Newlin Newlin is offline
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Location: Noble, Ok.
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zestay
could always get a retro 70 watt MH set up.
That is exactly what I have been thinking about. Keep the T5's (two of them) for the actenic value (if needed, if not then just the Aqua Blue for a little more light) and to light up the tank a little more. Get a pair of 14000K MH's and you will not be running any more watts then you were but you have a great shimmer. And, the 14000K MH has very little red in the light so your algae growth will be at a very min. I think I will try this when I get the extra cash and post pics of what it looks like.
  #66  
Old 01/02/2008, 04:10 AM
badpacket badpacket is offline
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Location: Bay Area, CA
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iantoh,

You could add a heat sink to that and it should work. Try to get either some large old style cpu cooling sinks, or try some pieces of aluminum or copper tubing. You want to wick away the heat, or add some fans.

Quote:
Originally posted by iantoh
hi there barjam,

i shall be visiting the electrical shop that configured my LEDs for me and shall ask them the make of my diodes ya.


cheers,
ian

ps: i'm planning to buy a DSLR camera next weekend, and shall post some pics if possible then.
  #67  
Old 01/02/2008, 01:21 PM
tbone28 tbone28 is offline
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Location: Bay Area, CA
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I wonder if the JBJ K-2 Viper clamp-on 70w would do the trick. U think it's strong enough to overpower (16) T5 bulbs?

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewIt...ct~JB9111.html
  #68  
Old 01/02/2008, 01:26 PM
jpsk8man jpsk8man is offline
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lmao
 


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