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#26
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i've thought about using these empty filter canisters for a while now (for phosban, carbon, etc...). However, i can't find one (at least at Lowes) that doesn't have metal threads for the input and output.
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#27
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Nanz... How is your RODI Kalk reactor doing for your Ca and Alk?
I built one after reading this thread. It works great. You mentioned that you use 4 TBL spoons in your reactor. Are you still using this amount? Thanks,
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"You can't depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus." - Mark Twain |
#28
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Instead of drilling a hole in the top to feed the reactor, couldn't you just use one of the pre drilled holes (with the yellow or blue RO lines) as the input and exit?
I think you would still need to add an extension to the feed line to introduce the RO water farther away from the exit and nearer to the kalk. God bless, Basset
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Isiah 40:31 |
#29
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dp
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Isiah 40:31 |
#30
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The design that Nanz has shown does exactly what you are suggesting. Since the normal operation of a filter works by pumping water into the main chamber and exiting through the center, the Kalk reactor works by simply reversing the flow. You will need to add a tube to direct the incoming water to the bottom of the chamber. The pressure of the incoming water forces the kalk-saturated water out of the top of the filter. Theres no drilling needed.
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"You can't depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus." - Mark Twain |
#31
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Yep.. Its working good.. Ca is 420 and Alk is 9dKH and they are both rock solid. I upped the amount I use to 5 TBL spoons. This lasts about 1.5 weeks for me. This is the best I have been able to do with my reactor because 6 will cause the stirbar to stick on my reactor. You want to fill the reactor so there is nothing hindering the movement of the stirbar. That point on my reactor is just above the drain plate. Kindal like a light snow, hehe. At least thats my thiniking, hehe... So far its working good for me though
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S.G. = 1.025 Temp = 78.0 pH = 8.10 Ca = 420 Alk = 9 Mg = 1350 NO2, NH3 = 0 NO3 = 0 |
#32
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S.G. = 1.025 Temp = 78.0 pH = 8.10 Ca = 420 Alk = 9 Mg = 1350 NO2, NH3 = 0 NO3 = 0 |
#33
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On the reactor that I made, I took my Dremmel tool and actually removed the circular part that rises from the bottom of the filter housing (the part that a filter would sit on) creating a flat bottom. I also bought the 2.5 inch magnetic stir bar. With this combo, I am able to just have the stir bar spin on the bottom of the container without the PVC drain piece. The 2.5" stir bar is stong enough to spin with 4 TBL spoons of Kalk powder. This mixes up the Kalk very well and by having the stirrer come on once every 4 hours or so, I havent yet seen any Kalk hardening up. I will probably up my dose to 5 TBL spoons and see what happens. I took some pics of my setup, I just havent had time to put them into my PhotoBucket account. I will post them here once I get them hosted.
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"You can't depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus." - Mark Twain |
#34
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S.G. = 1.025 Temp = 78.0 pH = 8.10 Ca = 420 Alk = 9 Mg = 1350 NO2, NH3 = 0 NO3 = 0 |
#35
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I used my Dremmel tool with my hand tightly shoved down into the filter housing to remove the plastic ring at the bottom. It was a PITA but It worked out. I used the little sanding-drum Dremmel bit to accomplish this.
Heres my RODI Kalk reactor in its home in my laundry room (my tank is in the living room on opposite side of the wall so I just made a small hole in the wall to run the RODI line directly to the sump)(The stirrer is on in this first pic) Here you can see the 2.5" Stir bar laying flat on the bottom (buried in Kalk) Another closer-up pic. Thanks Nanz for the inspiring build thread. I was sitting at work contemplating what I could DIY to start adding kalk to my tank and came upon this thread. MISSION ACCOMPLISHED
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"You can't depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus." - Mark Twain Last edited by MeuserReef; 11/21/2007 at 07:51 PM. |
#36
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Well done! These canisters make such great reactors!!
I think you could just extend that downtube in the center of the reactor to the bottom of the canister. Then drill some holes on the sides for water to enter thru, mix the kalk, and continue onto the tank. This would eliminate the need for the stirplate and stirbar. This is my CA reactor, built in the same fashion. I added a reducer and cut it down in addition to adding the holes. I think you could do this just as easily with the kalk reactor.
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Great spirits often encounter violent opposition from mediocre minds. |
#37
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BTW, your Ca RX is sweet. Good job on keeping the build clean looking.
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"You can't depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus." - Mark Twain |
#38
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You might be right, i think it would depend on the pressure going into the unit, and how often your tank tops off.
Thanks! There is a great thread that I took the ideas from here, I just added my own plumbing and it works great!
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Great spirits often encounter violent opposition from mediocre minds. |
#39
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http://www.melevsreef.com/dj88.html I dont yet have it in service but with the way that the RODI Kalk Reactor is keeping my Ca and Alk stable... Im thinking that I might not need it (yet.. ) As I continue collecting more and more stony corals, and if I can move forward with my plans to upgrade my 30 gallon to a 90 gallon, Im sure I will reach the limit of what Kalk will do, at which time I will move to a dual-dosing method of both a Ca Reactor and the RODI Kalk Reactor. The way I see it, having a tank with a high calcium demand is a good sign that your doing things right! Got to go eat my turkey now. Gobble Gobble everyone!
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"You can't depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus." - Mark Twain |
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