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  #1  
Old 10/23/2007, 12:54 PM
Nanz Nanz is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 408
RODI Kalk Reactor

After failing miserably at building a leak proof Kalk reactor I found a link on this site to someone who used a RODI canister to build a Kalk reactor. I really liked the idea of building one out of a RODI canister since they are leak proof and they are very small. That was really important to me because I don’t have much room in my stand.



The only problem was that it had no stir mechanism. I then decided to build one that I could use with a magnetic stirrer. The only problem was the bottom of the RODI Canister has a raised tube in the center that is used to hold the DI filter cartridge. I found a plastic drain disk at Ace hardware and it fit perfectly into the canister. I sanded the one side of the disk to make sure it was smooth.



I then used some super glue and glued it to the bottom of the RODI canister.


The top part of the canister needed a line that would run down to the Kalk. I used a ½ tap to thread the inside of the top tube. This is normally the output on a RODI canister but for the Kalk reactor it will be the input.

I used some teflon tape and attached the ½ MPT x ¼” hose barb


After that was secure I attached some ¼ tubing to the fitting and cut it to be just above the stir bar. I don’t want it to interfere with the stirring mechanism.



And here it is complete. I have a ¼ valve on the output in the picture that I ended up not using since I just run the topoff through the reactor and not using it for dripping Kalk.



__________________
S.G. = 1.025
Temp = 78.0
pH = 8.10
Ca = 420
Alk = 9
Mg = 1350
NO2, NH3 = 0
NO3 = 0
  #2  
Old 10/23/2007, 01:24 PM
rustybucket145 rustybucket145 is offline
Nightime Tank Cleanin'
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: valdosta, ga
Posts: 3,436
Will you please come teach my girlfriend how to use a tread tap.... and explain to her that teflon tape isn't supposed to be sticky??

Seriously though... Great Mod! Simple, clean and functional. Where did you get your stirring plate from? does it run 24/7 or do you have it on a timer?

Great Build!!
__________________
90gal display
40gal propagation/refugium tank
30gal sump
  #3  
Old 10/23/2007, 02:23 PM
Nanz Nanz is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 408
Quote:
Originally posted by rustybucket145
Will you please come teach my girlfriend how to use a tread tap.... and explain to her that teflon tape isn't supposed to be sticky??

Seriously though... Great Mod! Simple, clean and functional. Where did you get your stirring plate from? does it run 24/7 or do you have it on a timer?

Great Build!!
Thank you

I grew up with two brothers so I know my way around tools, hehe.

I got the drain plate from Ace Hardware. It was about $1. It had two white nipples on the front and back of the plate. Sorry, I can't think of a better word for them, hehe. I cut one of them off and then sanded it so it was smooth. I left the other one on so that I could insert it into the bottom of the DI canister. Then I glued it in place.

The neat thing about this reactor is that the drain plate keeps the Kalk below it so that it wont interfere with the the stir bar wich happens when Kalk hardens. Since the drain plate has holes in it then when the stir bar rotates the Kalk comes up through the plate.

I have the magnetic stirrer set to come on every 6 hours for 5 mins. I got my Stir plate off of Ebay. It was around $30 with shipping. I use a 2" stir bar. 2.5" might be better but you need at least a 2" stir bar otherwise the magnet is too weak. I set the magnetic stir to stir or slow-medium. Its like setting 4 out of 10 on my stir plate. If the setting is too high when it comes on it will vibrate and not stir. I found this setting to work the best for me.
__________________
S.G. = 1.025
Temp = 78.0
pH = 8.10
Ca = 420
Alk = 9
Mg = 1350
NO2, NH3 = 0
NO3 = 0
  #4  
Old 10/23/2007, 02:42 PM
dhnguyen dhnguyen is offline
Moved On
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Kingston, WA
Posts: 4,753
Very simple yet impressive mod. I wish my wife could do something like that
If I tried to explain anything remotely technical and/or involving tools, her eyes would just glaze over
  #5  
Old 10/23/2007, 04:13 PM
RicGio RicGio is offline
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What timer are you using? Nice build BTW...
  #6  
Old 10/23/2007, 06:59 PM
customcolor customcolor is offline
Brighter the better
 
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Location: kaukauna, wi.
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i was going to do something just like that, well kinda, tonight. when i get it done i to will post. but i realy like yours, nice and clean looking!
  #7  
Old 10/23/2007, 08:31 PM
jg2269jg jg2269jg is offline
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Hey where did you get the ro canister
  #8  
Old 10/23/2007, 08:31 PM
jg2269jg jg2269jg is offline
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Hey where did you get the ro canister
  #9  
Old 10/23/2007, 11:42 PM
rivdog rivdog is offline
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nanz, will you marry me?
  #10  
Old 10/24/2007, 01:15 AM
dhnguyen dhnguyen is offline
Moved On
 
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She's married dude. Didn't you see the ring?
  #11  
Old 10/24/2007, 01:41 AM
rivdog rivdog is offline
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shoot, just missed, again
  #12  
Old 10/24/2007, 07:06 AM
rustybucket145 rustybucket145 is offline
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Location: valdosta, ga
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The cannister is just a water filter housing. Available at any hardware store, HD or lowes.
__________________
90gal display
40gal propagation/refugium tank
30gal sump
  #13  
Old 10/24/2007, 07:14 AM
funlap funlap is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Maryland
Posts: 27
Very nice.... i likes whats i sees
  #14  
Old 10/24/2007, 08:30 AM
Nanz Nanz is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 408
Thanks for all the compliments.. I am married already, hehe


I got the canister from an old DI unit that I dont use anymore. I think I bought the thing from FOS around $30 but that was including the DI filter. I think you can get one for about $15 online without the DI filter.

The timer I use is Coralife Power Center - Single Digital



I originaly purchased it for my lights but found out it did not work the way I had planned. I had it in a box for a while before I found a use for it. The nice thing about the power strip is it has 7 timer cycles but I only use 4 of them. I have mine programmed to come on at (5am, 11am, 5pm and 11pm) and they stay on for 5 mins then shut off. When you program the cycle the blue outlets are ON while the Yellow ones are OFF. I have my Stir Plate plugged into a BLUE socket and my ATO plugged into a YELLOW socket. This is an added feature for my setup because it will turn off my ATO while the Kalk is stiring. Also helps to reset the ATO if it failed somehow. Its worked for me very well but I only use one BLUE and one YELLOW outlet which is a waste but still does what I want it to.
__________________
S.G. = 1.025
Temp = 78.0
pH = 8.10
Ca = 420
Alk = 9
Mg = 1350
NO2, NH3 = 0
NO3 = 0
  #15  
Old 10/24/2007, 10:40 AM
A.T.T.R A.T.T.R is offline
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nice solution also its hangable so we can get the kalkreactors off the floor!


and hate to say it. it dosnt even need to be that complicated you could just fill a old di cartridghe with kalk or.. just dump kalk into the canister ( dosnt really need to be stirred. it does the same job with less risk of slurry getting out)
__________________
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Chris

"to many tanks not enough r/o"
  #16  
Old 10/24/2007, 10:45 AM
A.T.T.R A.T.T.R is offline
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nice solution also its hangable so we can get the kalkreactors off the floor!


and hate to say it. it dosnt even need to be that complicated you could just fill a old di cartridghe with kalk or.. just dump kalk into the canister ( dosnt really need to be stirred. it does the same job with less risk of slurry getting out)
__________________
Addicted to the Reef
Chris

"to many tanks not enough r/o"
  #17  
Old 10/24/2007, 11:00 AM
Nanz Nanz is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 408
Quote:
Originally posted by A.T.T.R
nice solution also its hangable so we can get the kalkreactors off the floor!


and hate to say it. it dosnt even need to be that complicated you could just fill a old di cartridghe with kalk or.. just dump kalk into the canister ( dosnt really need to be stirred. it does the same job with less risk of slurry getting out)
I first tired that method but the Kalk kept getting solid and stuck to the bottom of the cartridge. My pH would fluctuate because the water coming out of the reactor was not saturated. If I tried to mix it by shaking it then I would just make a huge mess of slurry.

How much Kalk do you add to the canister?

With the stirbar/reactor I add 4 TBL spoons which is 12 teaspoons. Thats how much fits below the drain plate and lasts about 2 weeks. My evaporation is only 1 gallon a day and thats using a fan to speed it up, hehe.
__________________
S.G. = 1.025
Temp = 78.0
pH = 8.10
Ca = 420
Alk = 9
Mg = 1350
NO2, NH3 = 0
NO3 = 0
  #18  
Old 10/24/2007, 10:02 PM
wingmans10 wingmans10 is offline
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Location: San Diego
Posts: 112
i'm new to the concept of the magnetic stirrer. Does the stir bar ride ontop of the drane plate? If so, would it be benificial to have a solidplate so the stir bar is in direct contact with the kalk, keeping it from going solid on you? I assume the magnetic stirrer comes in various sizes, what size is the one you are using? very well done and am planning to do the same thing, just looking to answer a fiew ? before i start.
  #19  
Old 10/24/2007, 11:25 PM
siropa siropa is offline
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that's awesome. I've been thinking of how to build one for my tank and it never occurred to me to use those canisters. I've got several just laying around. Thanks for posting this.
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See red house for pics.
  #20  
Old 10/25/2007, 07:27 AM
Nanz Nanz is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by wingmans10
i'm new to the concept of the magnetic stirrer. Does the stir bar ride ontop of the drane plate? If so, would it be benificial to have a solidplate so the stir bar is in direct contact with the kalk, keeping it from going solid on you? I assume the magnetic stirrer comes in various sizes, what size is the one you are using? very well done and am planning to do the same thing, just looking to answer a fiew ? before i start.
I use a 2 inch stir bar. I think a 2.5 inch bar would fit though. The canister is 3 inches in diameter. The reason for the drain plate to have holes is to keep the kalk from settling and hardening on the plate. If I add too much Kalk then the stirbar seems to get stuck. But if I add just enough to keep the kalk below the plate then it does not get stuck. Maybe if you used a 2.5" stir bar then it would stir settled kalk on top of the plate.
__________________
S.G. = 1.025
Temp = 78.0
pH = 8.10
Ca = 420
Alk = 9
Mg = 1350
NO2, NH3 = 0
NO3 = 0
  #21  
Old 10/25/2007, 10:19 AM
wingmans10 wingmans10 is offline
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Location: San Diego
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Ok, with that being said, the settled kalk below the plate is agitated enuff by the sir bar w/o direct contact to keep it from going solid? Thanks for the help
  #22  
Old 10/25/2007, 01:59 PM
MeuserReef MeuserReef is offline
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Posts: 927
Awesome build Nanz. Its awesome to see the female reefers out there showing off their DIY skills.

I have an old clear filter housing that Im no longer using so I might give this a try.
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"You can't depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus." - Mark Twain
  #23  
Old 10/25/2007, 09:32 PM
customcolor customcolor is offline
Brighter the better
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: kaukauna, wi.
Posts: 870
here is a 30 sec movie of my slow mix reactor that mixes 24 hous aday with no cloud! and the build is here

  #24  
Old 10/26/2007, 11:35 AM
Nanz Nanz is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Ohio
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Thats Great! I love it when you tank a bunch of junk and convert it tinto something useful.. Great Idea
__________________
S.G. = 1.025
Temp = 78.0
pH = 8.10
Ca = 420
Alk = 9
Mg = 1350
NO2, NH3 = 0
NO3 = 0
  #25  
Old 10/26/2007, 11:42 AM
dhnguyen dhnguyen is offline
Moved On
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Kingston, WA
Posts: 4,753
FWIW... If you have an old computer hard drive lying around you could easily make yourself a magnetic stirrer from that as well, those magnets are extremely powerful.

one of these can be built pretty easily too

http://brewiki.org/StirPlate

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/show...Number/7082339
 

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