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#1
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CaribSea PO4 remover.
I saw this product and was curious if anyone had tryed it? and the results please!
The label: PHOS-BUSTER PRO, INSTANT PHOSPHATE REMOVER. 8oz. bottle, treats 250G. Directions: 5mL per 10G will remove 1.0ppm PO4. pH should be @ 8.2 min. Alk @ 3.5meq/L or 10 dKH min. wait 24 hours before second dose, if needed. TIA
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GIVE A MAN A FISH, YOU FEED HIM FOR A DAY. TEACH A MAN TO FISH, HE FEEDS HIMSELF FOR LIFE. Last edited by reefnetworth; 10/12/2007 at 03:48 PM. |
#2
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I don't know exactly what's in that product, but it sounds like a lanthanum-based solution. They can work, but leave the phosphate in the tank as a precipitate, and have been known to kill animals. I wouldn't risk using it, personally.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
#3
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use phospure or rowaphos in a reactor for best results
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the only dumb question, is the one not asked... |
#4
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I have used it. It works very well used the whole bottle to reduce 2ppm of phos. It is not 100% reef safe despite what others say.
Urchins and starfish become stunned. Tube worms are retracted and some fish beath rapidly. However, a drip system would minimize theese effects slightly. I would invest into somthing that works without large side effects like gfo. I wrote a review, wich i cant find about it. And an alternative source of this in a huge bottle for cheap! I use it now. Search for it.
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Its a good idea to have a refrence sample for alk test kits. 1.1350 grams of baking soda in 1gallon of distilled water=10dkh. Check your alkalinity test kit! |
#5
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the side of the bottle states: " Instantly removes dissolved phosphate. Helps control green hair, slime,and other nuisance algae. Promotes the growth of hard corals, soft corals, pink and purple coralline algaes."
would the 'dissolved phosphate' be the precip. that Jon is refering to? i currently use Rowaphos, none of the LFS here stock the phospure, which think ive read is better than Rowa.
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GIVE A MAN A FISH, YOU FEED HIM FOR A DAY. TEACH A MAN TO FISH, HE FEEDS HIMSELF FOR LIFE. |
#6
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Dissolved phosphate refers to phosphate in the water column, not precipitates.
I don't know of any data on how well the various GFO products compare.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
#7
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thank you jon.
so dissolved would be floating in a molecular or ionic structure or free floating?
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GIVE A MAN A FISH, YOU FEED HIM FOR A DAY. TEACH A MAN TO FISH, HE FEEDS HIMSELF FOR LIFE. |
#8
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the reason for asking is if you run floss only and change it after so many days, wouldnt it be collected in the floss and removed?
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GIVE A MAN A FISH, YOU FEED HIM FOR A DAY. TEACH A MAN TO FISH, HE FEEDS HIMSELF FOR LIFE. |
#9
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Dissolved should mean it's in ionic structure, in this case.
Floss might catch any precipitate that's fairly large in size and doesn't just sink to the bottom of the tank. That's not how these products generally are described as working, though. The precipitate is said to sink to the bottom, requiring manual removal.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
#10
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You are correct Jon on what is in the bottle and it being left behind in the water as a precip , although the skimmer may take out some
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If you See Me Running You Better Catch-Up An explosion can be defined as a loud noise, accompanied by the sudden going away of things, from a place where they use to be. |
#11
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The precipitate doesn't sink quickly. Early experiments of mine in a completely still jar showed the particulates to take several hours to sink completely. In a tank with any amount of reasonable flow it would easily be kept in suspension. Only in a slow flow section of a sump or in dead areas of the tank would it have a chance to settle.
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#12
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What color is the precipitate?
Is the reaction reversible? In other words, is it possible for the precipitated phosphate to later dissolve again into the water column? |
#13
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Would a magnum 300 that traps 5ml particles, collect and trap the precipitate?
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#14
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The precipitate is usually white and particle size varies but I would imagine a fine filter, sock etc would capture it. I have pics of my experiments at home, if I remember I'll post them tonight. They show varying stages of precipitate settlement.
It's possible for it to "discombobulate" to use a technical term but that requires pH much lower than typically found in a reef tank. Around 5 or 6 from memory. However, it's possible for there to be localised low pH micro zones where this may happen (in the sandbed or LR for instance) or it may be consumed by organisms and broken down eg by cucumbers etc. Therefore it's best to remove it through skimming, filtering, syphoning etc. Note that these products also lower alkalinity (by La carbonate precipitation) so it's VERY important to maintain and monitor it. They've also been known to adversely affect some livestock, yellow tangs in particular. Any dosing should be slow and closely monitored. |
#15
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their are 2 other products out like that one. Anyone used those before.
The Salifert Phosphate Eliminator and Blue Life Phosphate Control |
#16
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The Blue Life is a lanthanum-based product. I don't know how that Salifert product works, but it might be safer than the lanthanum approach.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
#17
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There are more than 2 products like that. Try over 20! Most are designed for pool use but often state suitable for aquariums. In fact most seem to be rebadges like some of the GFOs are rebadges of Bayoxide 33 etc.
The Salifert one is not Lanthanum, it's iron based. Don't know exactly which but in effluent plants typically it's ferrous/ferric chloride or sulfide. Could be one of those or something else. |
#18
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Salifert Phospate Killer is a GFO (iron) product. I don't think the other one is. The Salifert forum would be the place to ask.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
#19
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PO4 Eliminator is a liquid. I saw Habib mention on another site it was iron based so I took a stab at what it might be. The ads just say it contains a PO4 binder.
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#20
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Posted some pics in a new thread here -
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1229786 |
#21
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Dilute your dosage and drip it directly in front of the skimmer's pump intake. Watch the sides of your skimmer riser collect the lighter colored precipitate.
Test your PO4 before and after treatment and you'll see the difference based on your dosage. No need wait a week to see what's be removed, you can see the difference hours after treatment. No guessing when the media is exhausted. Be sure to monitor and maintain alkalinity since the La can bring it down. If you're running near natural alk levels I'd suggest very small and diluted dosages to reduce the risk. I've been using the Blue life product since it came out. 2 systems and not one fish loss. I've never seen any animal react to it when dosed using the above method. Reports of fish loss have been limited to yellow tangs as far a I know. Most of those IMO were due to overdose issues and the resulting precipitate suffocated the yellow tangs which have a different gill structure than most other fish. SteveU
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AKA, Riff |
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