T-5 bulb suggestions for Aquatinics 72 inch 7x2 bulb config - Page 4

raynist · #76 09/10/2006, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
118 at the sand? I had higher hopes than that.

Grim, I think the 135 you see on the right is more representative. The 118 is at the front of the glass. The 135 is under the bulbs.

This is on a 2ft tall tank also.

I haven't done a water change in 3 months either

The splash shield could use a cleaning also (this light has a shield), but it is not too bad.

I got a lower value than that out of my Tek unit in an 18 inch deep tank with no splash shield.

--Ray

mcegelsk · #77 09/10/2006, 03:06 PM

I would be interested to see the difference in readings you get without the splash sheild. ~Matt

theedudenator · #78 09/10/2006, 03:07 PM

My tank is 24" tall also.

but I can only fit 6 bulbs.

Should I look into overdriving the icecap ballasts??

raynist · #79 09/10/2006, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mcegelsk
I would be interested to see the difference in readings you get without the splash sheild. ~Matt

This fixture sits right on the tank, I would not run it without the spash shield. My guess is I would get about 10-15% more light.

raynist · #80 09/10/2006, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
118 at the sand? I had higher hopes than that.

Also, it is hard to tell from the picture, but the rockwork above this area sticks out very close to the front of the tank. This area is somewhat shaded by this.

--Ray

Stormtrker · #81 09/10/2006, 03:40 PM

Thanks for posting the par readings Ray! I was a little disappointed with the results too. Thinking now I will go with MH for my 180G as I want to keep my SPS and clams happy.

raynist · #82 09/10/2006, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Stormtrker
Thanks for posting the par readings Ray! I was a little disappointed with the results too. Thinking now I will go with MH for my 180G as I want to keep my SPS and clams happy.

Just a note,

I have some sps and clams thriving at the bottom of my 75g tank with less par than that using a Tek Light.

The average 175w/250w bulb with a parabolic reflector will probably have similar performance. If you get a really good bulb and good reflector (lumenmax/lumenarc) it will be higher.

--Ray

The Grim Reefer · #83 09/10/2006, 04:17 PM

135 is better. I would hav liked to see them have the option of an IC ballast for 2 rows of daylights.

raynist · #84 09/10/2006, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
135 is better. I would hav liked to see them have the option of an IC ballast for 2 rows of daylights.

This fixture is really thin though. I am sure they would have to redesign it to have those fit. Their other T-5 fixtures are much higher than this one. I am not sure why that is. I do have an extra 660 laying around that I could try to wire up for my 4 daylight bulbs.

--Ray

raynist · #85 09/14/2006, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by raynist
Here are par reading taken this morning on my 180. The tank is 2ft tall.

All bulbs are less than 3 weeks old and the fixture is slightly forward from the middle of the tank.

Here is my current bulb config:

ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aqua Blue
GE Daylight
UV Lighting Super Actinic
GE Daylight
ATI Aqua Blue
UV Lighting Super Actinic

--Ray

The 820 reading is at the water level with the sensor above the water, the reading below this is just below the water level.

Something to keep in mind here, these readings are at different spots front to back. You will notice that the 290 reading appears to be only an inch or two down from the 440 reading, but it is also back about 8 inches or more from the 440 reading. The 290 reading is barely under the light fixture. Same with the 167 reading. The 118 reading is at the front of the tank (again, not directly under the fixture), it is also partially shaded by the area above it with the 210 reading. The rock that has the 210 reading on it is almost touching the glass, and again not directly under the fixture.

Here is a diagram of how the light sits on the tank and where the par values were taken in relation to the light.

The inner rectangle represents the light fixture

Thanks
Ray

Bradco · #86 09/14/2006, 07:58 PM

Good to finally see others with the same light, I got mine in May and have been very happy with it, I haven't seen anyone here say wether they have moon lights setup has anyone figured that out, as I would like to get some this weekend, mine sits on top of my 125 my LFS was supposed to e getting me legs, should I keep it this way or use the legs that they have, also I wanted to get a canpy but shyed away from that unless someone has had luck with the canopy and this light, any help greatly appreciated, oh and you guys were licky I got my light before any of the sales, oh well price to pay to play

Bradco · #87 09/14/2006, 08:00 PM

Oh Raynist what model tunzes do you have there and is that a good setup for a 125 also

raynist · #88 09/14/2006, 08:02 PM

I have one 6060 (not controllable) and one 6000. It probably needs more flow though. I think I am going to go with 2 - 6100's on the multicontroller.

Bradco · #89 09/14/2006, 08:13 PM

Thanks, anyone on the moonlight question

atvdave · #90 09/14/2006, 08:24 PM

Got mine setup the other day. The only problem I had with it was that it would trip my GFCI with all 3 switches (Light rows) on. So I just ran one leg to a different GFCI and it works fine.

Here's my setup

(1) ATI Aquablue Special (may replace with Super Actinic)
(3) ATI Blue Plus
(2) UVL AquaSun
(1) ATI Aquablue Special
(2) UVL AquaSun
(3) UVL Super Actinic (will replace with ATI Blue Plus)
(1) UVL Super Actinic

(#)=switch number

Pic's

theedudenator · #91 09/14/2006, 08:25 PM

That light is great
I wish they made a 60" set....

The Grim Reefer · #92 09/14/2006, 09:01 PM

Sweet tank Dave!

atvdave · #93 09/14/2006, 09:15 PM

Thanks Grim, It's definitely a work in progress. I basically just took all the stuff I had in my 92g corner and put in the 125g. I wanted to get a few things done before I added more LR and live stock.

I'm upgrading my sump, and just upgraded my light's. I'll be moving my sump into my garage on the other side of the wall and run my pipes through the wall, trying to kill the sound a bit and make it easier for water changes.

After I get that done I'll start loading up on more LR, fish, and corals.

Hey.. It's only money

Dave

theedudenator · #94 09/14/2006, 09:22 PM

Do you plan on putting that hood on timers?

atvdave · #95 09/14/2006, 09:41 PM

It is on timers, 3 of them.

switch 3- 10am to 9pm
switch 2- 11am to 8pm
switch 1- 12pm to 7pm

That's what I'm trying now. I only had these lights running for 2 days now so I'll just have to see how it works out.

theedudenator · #96 09/14/2006, 09:43 PM

Is the hood made well?
I am thinking of getting their MH/T5 hood in 60"

vonodie1 · #97 09/14/2006, 09:46 PM

I really like the looks of this fixture, but have a question. I know that it can sit right on top, but what would it do if I sat it about 12 inches above. (on top of my canopy)?

Thanks

atvdave · #98 09/14/2006, 10:00 PM

South Padre Island, Lucky you!!!

I'm sure the PAR rating will go down just a bit but you still may be OK all depending on what you want to keep.

Tom at Aquactinics or Grim can give you a better answer than I can.

theedudenator. I didn't take the hood apart, I just took the shield out to check that the bolts where tight, and to put the bulbs in. It looks made well to me. I didn't see anything wrong with it.

Dave

raynist · #99 09/14/2006, 10:01 PM

You could do it, but the farther the bulbs are away from the water the less light you will get into the water.

--Ray

vonodie1 · #**100** 09/14/2006, 10:35 PM

Thanks guys!

I guess being that I am just starting out it would be fine cause I wouldn't have any of the more light loving corals...

I just got this canopy that has the doors in it and am not sure how the lights would or wouldn't interfere with feedings and such.

Yeah atvdave, most people like it here....I do too, just work so much don't get to enjoy it like I would like to. We have to work our behinds off just to make it with the cost of living actually ON the island. (but right now our job requires it). The only time I don't like living on the island is during Spring Break, but it isn't all bad cause that is when I make the most money. hehe

(just the last 2 spring breaks my car has been vandalized by the breakers that stayed next door; first window broke out then this year a major gouge from window to door jam all the way to metal).

Thanks for the quick replys!