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#201
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Wanted to supply a link to related information...
The process for this, is (the same pretty much, just different aggregates) the same used for Hypertufa. Http://www.gardenweb.com forums Hypertufa Misc: The cement gets it's strength from the materials in the mix (referred to as aggregate(sp?)). Normaly in the hypertufa, one uses sand and peatmoss (or other organic forms of aggregate) in the mix...the idea being eventualy the organic materials decompose forming voids in the surface. Commonly 'rocks',planters etc created from Hypertufa or placed under a tarp and regularly misted or just placed into a body of water to 'soak/cure' after it has set. I've done a few planters that are normaly approx 3/4" to 1" thick and that fairly solid... and a partial sphere that is between 1/4 & 1/2 in thick (portland/Sand mix) that I think could/would support the weight of my 7yr old |
#202
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"So is this great and wide sea, wherein are things creeping innumerable, both small and great beasts." - Psalm 104:25 KJV |
#203
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Alright... trying this tomorrow (provided I can find the Type II cement) in lieu of "Great Stuff" to create a "cliff" for the back of my 10G nano...
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#204
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where do you find the white portland cement. I bought the grey does anyone use this stuff?
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#205
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The first rock I made was out of gray portland cement. Most of it is still in my tank. It took a while for the pH to lower. I have heard of a lot of rock that the pH never came down when using cement. That is why I like the Riverside cement because after curing for 28 days it is ready to use without any pH problems. Thanks, Scott
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President Idaho Marine Aquarium Society A fair and biased reef hobbyist. "If I were going to set up a tank, and I am going to make some people mad here, I would use VHOs" Dana Riddle 3/2/2007 |
#206
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I used the yellow pages and found a CONSTRUCTION SUPPLY company right down the street. I ended up with 90 or so lbs bag for $20.
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Sheesh, I get hung up on one reef, and they cry mutiny......blub,blub,blub |
#207
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Yeah i looked it up and found a few places to call but they were closed so have to wait for tommorow. wow the white stuff is that much more than the grey? the grey was only 7 $. oh well still worth it i guess.
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#208
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do you do the soaking in hot vinegar ? |
#209
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Tyler |
#210
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Thanks, Scott
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President Idaho Marine Aquarium Society A fair and biased reef hobbyist. "If I were going to set up a tank, and I am going to make some people mad here, I would use VHOs" Dana Riddle 3/2/2007 |
#211
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Folks, don't be too concerned who makes the white portland. Also, for barely more than twice the price of grey portland, it's still a good deal. One 90-100lbs bag can make more rocks than most reefers will need. I'm including a link to some good portland cement information. Any portland you find will be acceptable for making rocks (excluding blend/morter mixes). All of them will give off High levels of ph for a period of time. Most curing time issues have to do with methods employed for the curing not the brand or type of cement used.
Portland Cement Link Ok, I'm not intending to flame, but I thought some things could be cleared up some.
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Sheesh, I get hung up on one reef, and they cry mutiny......blub,blub,blub Last edited by CaptainCoral; 03/22/2005 at 06:24 PM. |
#212
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Tyler |
#213
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I went out and got the white stuff today. The brand was Leigh or something and was 19$.
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#214
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tgunn....man you're deffinately going to have to put them in the fountain. sorry to hear your having troubles with them. I've also made a "note to self" not to buy canadian portland cement.
rollinreefer....cool, now it's time to play in the sandbox.
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Sheesh, I get hung up on one reef, and they cry mutiny......blub,blub,blub |
#215
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Well, I just did another water change today; the cement seems to be doing some massive hydrating recently. Perhaps this is the last bit of curing before they're "really cured". These things have been going so long I just wanna 'em, but there's this overwhelming sense of curiosity as to how long they will take in the end. I'm thinking in the summer time if they're not done I'll find a lake and dump 'em for a nice long while. Tyler |
#216
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made one yesterday . It came out as a pretty cool shape but not as pourus as i wanted and are they supposed to be so heavy? I was thinking maybe i used too much cement.
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#217
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If your rock is porous, you should be able to fill a little dip in the rock with water and it should filter it's way through the rock rather than pooling up. Mine seem to be getting more porous as they cure. My latest batch where I made the mix much drier (less water) turned out even more porous. Tyler |
#218
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I made it a little wet , i think. I was using a electric drill mixer and it was burning up the drill, it was smoking.
what is the gernal mixture ratio again? |
#219
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1 part water 1 part white portland cement 4 parts crushed oyster shell 1 part sand However I think I end up using less than a part of water in the end.. I tend to rinse my oyster shells and the moisture that's left on them is about all that's needed. Tyler |
#220
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I tryed to follow that mixture the other day and I just went to see how they turned out and they just crumbled as i dug them out of the sand. Maybe i need to let them dry longer or my mix was not wet enough. I guess i will have to try again.
Brian
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The Matrix Has You |
#221
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Yes, I have found that they will be really fragile and crumbly for the first couple of days. I now let mine cure for a minimum of 3 days in the box with the lid on (keeping them moist). They seem to strengthen up quite nicely once they harden. Tyler |
#222
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Mine was dryed rock hard in 24 hours
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#223
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I bought the wrong stuff quickrete portland cement. ITs a blend OMG. I gotta go back and return it. The thing was 90 pounds. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
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RIP A+ FBM factory -Mushumatt- |
#224
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Yeah thats what i did at first. You have to go to a builders supply store and get the white, cost more but it still comes in the same size bags though.
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#225
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are you able to get the cement from lowes?? And can you use any type of cement?
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RIP A+ FBM factory -Mushumatt- |
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