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Otohime news
I recently obtained my Otohime sampler and am running some experiments with it.
I am comparing growth and colour of A.frenatus and A.ocellaris fed Otohime vs my regular feed. And I am trying to raise larvae of L.amboinensis exclusively on Otohime. Will post results.Itīs been some time since the Otohime fad started in this Forum,anybody would like to comment how you like it so far?
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Luis A M |
#2
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I like it but allot of it does wind up on the bottom of the tank.
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Why is this so addicting? Mike |
#3
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My survival rate post meta, second food-wise has been night and day.
I was using CE as a second food, and seeing significant losses. Size A as a second food has reduced those losses to neglible.
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Prisoner Number 642 On parol for reefkeeping Currently doing "time" in a medium security breeding facility for the terminally insane |
#4
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I have also used Oto A as a second food, and I like it, but I switch them to ON formula 1 pretty early because I do not like the color, or lack thereof, in my ocellaris fry with Otoheim.
I do like the sizing and the slow sink of the smallest Oto's. I have not had a problem with them wasting it. |
#5
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I'm not impressed with the colour or lack thereof in late stage anything with Otohime either. Some species, notably A. frenatus and A. ocellaris are almost translucent. But I have them on homemade food weeks before any make it to market.
As for the sinking issue, really only noticable for me with B2 and up.
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Prisoner Number 642 On parol for reefkeeping Currently doing "time" in a medium security breeding facility for the terminally insane |
#6
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If CE was affordable, it's all I would use. I used Oto B2 & C1 as a "bulk feed" for a while, but I wasn't too pleased with the color it produced, although there was definitely a positive feeding response to it and not much even makes it to the bottom, where they find it and clean it up anyway. Losses post-meta have always been close to zero unless someone gets bullied (maroons & toms!), but I'm strictly nhbbs as 2nd food.
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I just don't enjoy looking at translucent fish. This is my hobby, so enjoyment is a big part of it.
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Interestingly, I have one runt that is just not coming along well, and in the past two weeks he seems to be developing an underbite that didn't used to be there. Hmmm... no, it's not an underbite, it's more like an over-developed lower jaw.
I separated the runts out about a month ago on the theory they were not competing well enough for food. All have taken off but him. Yesterday I watched him spit out all the F1 although he kept trying to eat! I offered a little Otohime and he ate it ravenously.
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Don't count your gobies before they've metamorphasized. |
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While I still consider myself a beginner I do think I see fault here with the "second food" mentality. For me it is "second foodS". Assuming "first food" is rotifers, I move quite quickly from there yet keep up the rots through 12 days or until I need them for somone else. Each species is different but for ocellaris I have found that they will take oto "AA" long before bbs, I start them on the morning of day 4. Oh, you don't have "AA" ? Well you have to make it I think oto A is too damned big, don't know why they don't make a smaller feed. I use a 125 um screen to sift out what I need and then a 36um screen to trash what I don't. What I get from that is food for 4 day old oc's, by day 5 they can take oto A. The big advantage that I can see from the otohime is rapid growth, the big disad is **** poor color. ( I only know this from posts here since I've never releyed on it exclusively) At 6-7 days I feed out fortified bbs and asap I start with frozen CE. Then that is the diet for the first 30 days, Oto in increasing sizes, frozen CE and live fortified bbs. Basicaly my fish are the same color as CE. I guess "you are what you eat" applies
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These are my rotifers. Without my rotifers I am nothing. Without me my rotifers are nothing. |
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Oh btw, people ask me when I stop feeding fortified live bbs. The answer is NEVER I need to culture them twice daily no matter what what so I make enough to feed every fish I own, I think it stimulates the broodstock and when the juvies are so stuffed they think they can't possibly take another grain of dead food they can suddenly take in a few pounds of live
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These are my rotifers. Without my rotifers I am nothing. Without me my rotifers are nothing. |
#11
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Quote:
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#12
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Mortor & pestol to grind, screens to sift. I originally bought the assortment pack & have no use for the larger stuff. I suspect that the nutritional profile changes a little with the size increase, that would make sense, so maybe it's not ideal but I have it so I'm gonna use it. I asked Randy about that he said it was a tad different but not much as far as he knew.
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These are my rotifers. Without my rotifers I am nothing. Without me my rotifers are nothing. |
#13
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Quote:
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Put it in the brood stock gel diet...
David if i feed my clowns blue berries, will I get indigo clowns? Ed |
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Quote:
http://www.reed-mariculture.com/otohime/details.asp I'll consult with the manufacturer, maybe they can create a mix more suited for color.
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Gresham _______________________________ Feeding your reef...one polyp at a time |
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I would be grateful if they would, because I like the diet otherwise
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Quote:
However; a Japanese breeder using it (and it is #1 food in Japan)finds colour of clowns is poor and must supplement with CE to correct it. While somebody here (Edgar?) says it is good as it is without need to supplement. For one thing in the ingredients list I donīt see asthaxantine nor b-glucan,but I donīt see vitamins either,so may be every ingredient was not shown. In any case,it is a simple matter to top dress the feed with the needed products.It could be made by the manufacturer,the importer or the user.
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Luis A M |
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Even Edgar, the one who started this fad, feeds CE exclusively the last two weeks before market to color them up.
Luis, what is your experiment, and, importantly, when do we get to see your results? |
#19
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Kathy, this is the opening post to this thread
"I recently obtained my Otohime sampler and am running some experiments with it. I am comparing growth and colour of A.frenatus and A.ocellaris fed Otohime vs my regular feed. And I am trying to raise larvae of L.amboinensis exclusively on Otohime. Will post results.Itīs been some time since the Otohime fad started in this Forum,anybody would like to comment how you like it so far?"
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These are my rotifers. Without my rotifers I am nothing. Without me my rotifers are nothing. |
#20
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Thanks David !
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Luis A M |
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Sorry to be so thick....
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Quote:
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Gresham _______________________________ Feeding your reef...one polyp at a time |
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Quote:
Now second round begins,grow-out up to market size.
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Luis A M |
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I'm currently using Otohime to raise silversides in a research lab. The A is used to suppment newly hatched brine shimp for the larvae. The growth and survival has been impressive for larval fish rearing, even the experimental batches that typically do poorly are doing well. B2 is used for the juvenilles and C1 and C2 for the adults, with adult brine and mysis shrimp also. Now these guys being silversides don't have any color, so I can't make any comments on that aspect. However, I think simply adding some asthaxantine and/or CE will do the trick nicely.
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Bill "LOL, well I have no brain apparently. " - dc (Debi) |
#25
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Luis, to which feed are you comparing Otoheim?
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