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Stand Build Plans
Im coming up with the plans to have a stand built for my 24x24x18 acrylic tank and could really use some with the structural integrity of the plans as I dont have woodworking experience and want to be sure it is safe. Your input is greatly appreciated!
A pic of the basic design (I've seem similiar already here on RC) My concern is this strong enough. Light Brown = 2"x2" posts (is this big enough) Green = 1/2" thick plywood Red= 1" thick Cherry wood The 1" thick Cherry board on the top is 24"x24" and the 24"x24" tank will sit flush on this board. The 2"x2" vertical support posts are 1/2" in from edge of this so i can have the doors flush with the edge of the tank. Top View Bottom View just another pic to show idea of stand |
#2
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Is this going to be viewable on three sides?
Looks very nice. |
#3
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Thanks eznet2u. Im definitly excited to get it started
Ya, all three will be viewable, both sides will look similiar the pic below when doors are closed. |
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One thing you will want to be careful about is that the stand can't "rack". if all of the sides open, this might be a potential problem. If the boards at the bottom of the sides are glued and screwed to the upright supports on each side, this would probably be enough to prevent racking. Good luck.
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Thanks for the reply Eldredge. What do you mean by racking ? The boards at the bottom will be mounted as you mention to the supporting posts. -thanks
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#6
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Without some suppoort, the top could "fall" to one side while the bottom stayed on the floor - kind of like a house of cards falling down. This is called "sheer" by engineers I believe, and your house has bracing or sheathing to keep this from happening when the wind blows, etc. A stand made with just upright supports could be very strong for downward force, but if someone pushed on it, it could easily collapse to one side.
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#7
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OK I see. Maybe I'll wrap four more horizontal 2"x2" posts at 3/4 length up the vertical 2"x2" posts.
How about the use of 2"x2" posts ? Will this be a large enough for a 45gallon ? Thanks again for the suggestions! |
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I'm not really sure about the 2x2's - I've never built with them.. I've never really used them much. I just finished a stand for a 125, and I used 3/4" plywood without much else. I just cut out the door openings while leaving enough on each side for strength - just like the commercially made stands. This is very strong, and won't warp. If you can get by with smaller openings, this would work well I think. Every application is a little different though. Maybe someone who has built a stand more like yours will have some advice. There are some good threads here that will probably give you some good ideas.
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#9
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As long as the 2 sides and back are skinned with 1/2" plywood, your stand will be plenty strong, and sturdy, for a 48 gallon set-up.
__________________
"It is never too late to give up your prejudices" H. D. Thoreau |
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Eldredge - Thanks, this sounds like an option I should consider as well.
RumLad - It will be skinned with the 1/2" cherry but also need to incorporate the doors somehow...maybe i need to head back to the drawing board to make it work. thanks! |
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I originally wanted to "stick-build" the weight bearing portion of the stand for my 125g but when I started to decided on joints I couldn't conceive a 'sturdy' method. Case in point, how do you plan on joining the ends of your 2x2's as illustrated ? I don't feel that anything except lap-joints or mortising while offer the strengh you seek. Furthermore the joints would be very challenging to create. I agree with the previous post suggesting one-piece cut-out of the frame using plywood and later applying a veneer-layer of cherry. My stand is constructed using pre-finished 3/4" maple plywood while my veneer is 3/4" cherry MDF. All of the door hardware is hidden such that the cherry doors appear to float. My stand is essentially a beefed-up cabinet carcase and I feel that your build could be simplifed by adopting a cabinet-building approach rather than a "stick-build". One last point is if you decided on cherry plywood doors, only use MDF material as most other plywoods are not straight and will warp. This was advise provided to me via plywood sales rep.
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#12
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Thanks for all the input. Is this the idea for "cabinet" style ?
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#13
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I think that looks great. A lot better than your original IMO. In fact, I think you could just use 3/4" without the 1/2" if you wanted. Plywood is very strong when joined together at 90 degree like your corners. I weigh about 220, and a 3" wide 36" long peice of 3/4" cabinet grade plywood easily supports all of my weight with no reinforcement - I can put one end on the ground and push down on it with all of my weight and lift my feet off the ground (and even "bounce" on it without breaking it). I think you are on the right track now.
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Great, thanks for the suggestions Eldredge. Im dying to get this thing started!
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#15
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I agree it looks alot better. 3/4" plywood should be fine. If you wanted a truly custom stand then build the internal frame as illustrated but with less solid pieces. Then make some or all of the 1/2" panels into hinged doors so that your service access is not restricted. I personally would make one side and one end completely accessible. One other consideration is how are you going to fit the sump into the stand. It may not fit if you have to angle it in.
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#16
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Carve it out of a six foot redwood. Maybe, then it will be strong enough.
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#17
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You second design is much, much better than the original. A single layer of 3/4" plywood is certainly strong enough for your stand design, even with door openings. Just be sure to leave at least 3" or so all around the door openings.
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90g reef/29g sump, DIY cabinet, 2x250w MH, 2x54w T5 actinics, ER RS135 skimmer, VorTech pump, 18w UV sterilizer |
#18
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Not to hijack your thread, but i am about to build a stand for a 40g breeder out of 3/4" plywood as well and would like to pick the brain of some of you who have experience with plywood stands. The tank will be outfitted with an external overflow on one of the ends so the display will be a peninsula-style, if you will. I want to build it primarily out of plywood (since i already have it sitting in the garage) without any 2x4 bracing etc...
What i was thinking of doing was either: 1) as recommended above, build each side as a single piece with the door accesses cut out, or.... 2) cut each piece individually as "strips" and join them (hopefully i can describe this in words). Essentially, the weight of the tank would sit on 8 5" strips (5" is just one of the measurments i am considering at the moment), 2 strips joined at each corner to make a "L." The remaining strips would be joined to these supports (top & bottom) to look like the "cut-outs" as described in the option above. Like i said, this might sound confusing but i hope you can develop a picture through the words. The plan is to build the stand from 3/4" plywood and all pieces to be joined through poket-hole jigging. Would this work and successfully support the weight of the tank and contents? Thanks for starting this thread and thanks in advance to all input!
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I am a reef geek...yes, i am ok with that. ~J |
#19
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I think the first plan looked good. How wide are the bottom cherry boards that were wrapping around the bottom? If say they were 4" tall on the 3 outside surfaces and they were glued and screwed properly to the vertical supports that would be adequate to prevent racking if you used hardwood for the 2x2. To make this work you will need some very strait and square vertical supports.
I would suggest using oak or maple. Maple and Cherry go really well together. Great contrast between the woods just like your sketch. The reason I like the first one is that it is very light looking and airy. You can add more strength by putting a 1/2" rabbet in the tops of the vertical supports to help take load from the horizontal supports that you see in the second and third picture. Just a thought, it is going to get real expensive when you use Cherry. It is a beautiful wood. Find a buddy that does some woodworking to lend a hand and maybe they will have some ideas also. Best of luck.
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If my phaser discharges off by as little as .06 terra watts, it would cause a cascading exothermal inversion. |
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Quote:
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#21
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Make a box using only pocket screws and glue verses a glued biscuit jointed box. Jump up and down on it. Then decide. One other consideration would be to think of the harsh marine environment it will be exposed to. Look inside of a LFS's display stand that has been around a few years. Using solid hardwood would be a waste in my opinion. A1 cherry plywood looks the same but behaves alot nicer in high moisture setting.
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#22
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True, but it is still expensive. About $150 per 4x8 sheet. I am not saying solid stock is cheep eather.
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If my phaser discharges off by as little as .06 terra watts, it would cause a cascading exothermal inversion. |
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