--75g Barebottom/Starboard Reef Project-- - Page 3

webpolk · #51 08/23/2005, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by arconom
Where do I put the level when it's filled?

I just put the level across several corners, to be sure they were all level. You can orientate the level so it runs the length of the tank or the width.

HTH,
Steve

arconom · #52 08/23/2005, 07:42 PM

The one reason I heard not to do that is the top plastic trim is sometimes uneven. So this would give me a untrue level.

webpolk · #53 08/23/2005, 07:51 PM

Indeed it would. Would it be fair to say then if:

a) your tank is level when testing on the glass now, and
b) your tank is in the same spot, then
c) you could take pre-level tests on the platsic trim now to determine if the trim is level or not.

If c holds true, then you should in theory be able to test for level on the trim when you move the tank.

Just an idea.

Steve

Lunchbucket · #54 08/23/2005, 08:01 PM

i used my plastic trim. yeah it can be off but what else you going to use??

Lunchbucket

arconom · #55 08/23/2005, 08:40 PM

I think I will take a level to the trim now pre Water. You guys are right thats about all there is to level it after it is filled for testing.

Travis · #56 08/23/2005, 10:12 PM

I'm thinking about your flow and the way you have everything now, assuming you plan to leave the bottom 2 outlets open, all of your flow is coming from the back of the tank pointing to the front. This "might" cause the water to bank off the front glass and then disperse back towards the back. What I worry about is this may push all the detritus that won't suspend to the back of the tank. If you aquscape all the way to the back wall you may not be able to siphon it. You may want to leave a few inches between the rocks and the back just in case. But this is just a "thought". No way to know for sure until everything is set up and running with rock in the tank. Maybe you could put some 45's on those bottom outlets pointing to the bottom. This would cause the flow to hit the bottom and spread out across the bottom while pushing the detritus towards the front of the tank.

arconom · #57 08/24/2005, 10:35 AM

Yeah sounds like a plan.

I also plan to leave room around all the sides. Thats the one flaw I made and many others, stacking the rock on the back glass. I don't want there to be any dead spots. Also I won't be stacking on the bottom either. I might lift it all with PVC but make sure it's not visible.

Travis · #58 08/24/2005, 09:36 PM

Have you seen the acrylic rod LR legs that people have been using? Looks like a pretty sweet idea. Just thought I would throw the option out on the table.

arconom · #59 08/24/2005, 09:43 PM

Yes I have

How do they secure them? Are they threaded rod? Or do they just drill a hole and insert a rod?

On a side note I am thinking about how I can make something that holds my Light Cabinet so I can move it by myself. Sliding rails or something? A minature version of what you have or Steve Weast uses? A roller system. Do you have any more detail on that? You can see my lighting cabinet in the beginning.

Also Travis where did you get your Epoxy paint?

Travis · #60 08/24/2005, 09:50 PM

I believe they are inserting the rod and then filling the rest of the hole with epoxy.

webpolk · #61 08/24/2005, 10:32 PM

How much space should be left below the rocks before the glass/starboard?

Thanks,
Steve

arconom · #62 08/25/2005, 03:46 PM

There really is no rule to what you should have. I will leave maybe 2" around the tank maybe more or less. I have to see what pieces of rock I pick.

boxfishpooalot · #63 08/25/2005, 04:22 PM

Hey Acronym Its looking great!

Just want you to know im taggen along.

PS: love that pic with all the ditritus on the bottom,man ewwwwww. Phophate controll at its best. And algaes best friend.

arconom · #64 08/25/2005, 08:32 PM

Thanks boxfishpooalot

Well today the Saga continues. I fedexd 1- 1"Bulkhead and a 1 1/2 bulkhead from Marine Depot. My wife was pleased of yet another delivery

Once again I was graced by my bro-inlaws presence

He was a animal today. Instead of getting ready for his 10 cruise to I don't know where,he decided to help me/do the plumbing.

Today all of the plumbing was finished. We will wait for a day to test for leaks. I want to make sure the PVC glue is totally dry.

The last minute he decided to add a drain which I was very happy about. Now I will have sweet water changes.

Tonight marks another milestone! Thanks everyone for taggin along.

arconom · #65 08/25/2005, 08:33 PM

Also that connection on the sump was for a old external return pump. It won't be used.

NexDog · #66 08/25/2005, 08:41 PM

Sweet. I need a bro-in-law like that.

arconom · #67 08/25/2005, 08:43 PM

I am very lucky.

arconom · #68 08/25/2005, 08:47 PM

I'm not sure if I should use regular water or RO/DI water to test for leaks. ?? Maybe it's best to use RO/DI water?

SERVO · #69 08/25/2005, 08:51 PM

Looking good,

I completely agree with Travis about the bulkheads; Since you have a plumming guru and cheap access to dual union ballvalves; If your system was mine, I would put a DUBV before the inputs to each of the holes of the CL. This way you will be about to close off all of the inputs take out the piping and bath it in Marantic acid to clean off all of the biofilm and encrusted gunk/detrius that will build up over time. This will keep your CL flow to the max. You are technically limiting the capacity of the dart's output by having all of the 90 degree angles into your system. You will be surprised that you aren't getting as much flow as you would anticipate.

I added DUBV at the outflow of every hole in my tank and around every pump and device that may need to come of and get cleaned.

It looks like a really "neat" system. Wish I lived around you to help out!

webpolk · #70 08/25/2005, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by arconom
I'm not sure if I should use regular water or RO/DI water to test for leaks. ?? Maybe it's best to use RO/DI water?

Use your tap water. No sense wasting that good RO/DI. When you are done testing, and it has dried, you can splash 3-4 gallons or RO/DI in it, on the sides, and run some through your plumbing to get any contaminants out before starting it all up.

I had to fill mine three times during testing, so trust me on this one.

Can't wait for more updates, this is starting to look great!

Steve

arconom · #71 08/25/2005, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by SERVO
You are technically limiting the capacity of the dart's output by having all of the 90 degree angles into your system. You will be surprised that you aren't getting as much flow as you would anticipate.

Again I am new to CL/Closed Loop systems.

Well with a CL the only real "head pressure" that you do get would be from internal friction due to fittings and unions and such. I have 2 90s on each CL return. With rigid I couldn't get away without them. I do think that the unions are the main flow restricter. In the big picture I know Spaflex would be the best but it to has it's flaws.

I am starting out at 3500GPH if I get 2500 Thats ok.

If I were to take this same setup and apply the laws to it as if it were a "return system" yes I would be greatly decreasing the flow IMO.

arconom · #72 08/25/2005, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by webpolk
I had to fill mine three times during testing, so trust me on this one.

I never thought of it that way,But I see why now. I will use regular tap water. That statement made me see more clearly. Also I guess using Ro/Di is a waste. I'm just scared of contaminates, but you already gave me a solution for that.

Lunchbucket · #73 08/25/2005, 09:40 PM

arconom - please put dual union ball valves on ALL you bulkheads...then either put DUBV's on right before you tee's or just use regular unions. you might need to take apart pieces for some reason...reasons you can't see yet. personally i would use DUBV's then you can shut off part of the flow FROM the PUMP and FROM the TANK. then take that piece off and work on it or redo it. hey it happens...ask travis he redid his plumbing like 3-4times.

looks good though. where you getting DUBV's cheap??

use tap water. you won't contaminate to any considerable extent IMO...uless you are using bleach water

Lunchbucket

arconom · #74 08/26/2005, 08:11 AM

I was getting my DUBVs from Lowes for cheap. I bought all of there Stock. I also went to 2 plumbing supply houses and they say they would have to order them since it's a specialty thing. I didn't know that.

Travis was getting them cheap also on Ebay. I can't remember the persons name. I doubt hes still around.

I will search Travis's thread for the name again. I found it last night. How do I search the name on Ebay?

Also guys I know all the DUBVs are a must but how much more will this kill my flow?

Travis · #75 08/26/2005, 08:37 AM

Yes, please do put unions at each bulkhead. Even if you never change the plumbing you may want to move the tank some day. It would be pretty hard to move it with all that plumbing sticking out. And the last thing you want to do is redo the plumbing while all of your livestock is sitting in tubs waiting. I still also recommend putting ball valves on each outlet so you can tweak the flow.

Use tap water for the testing. It's not going to contaminate anything. The only major contaminate in tap water is chlorine/chloramine. But after the water has been exposed to air for 24 hrs that goes away on its own anyways.

Don't bother looking for the guy I got the valves from. Several people have already tried and had no luck. Must have been a one time thing.

Unions will give neglibible head loss due to friction. Same with ball valves when they are running wide open. It is the 90 degree elbows that will kill flow. Another suggestion for the future would be to up the plumbing diameter to 1.5" at least to the last elbow. Then you can use the long turn 90's that come in 1.5" and create a lot less friction.