Canopy for a 29 Gallon Tank

The Saltwater Kid · #1 10/03/2006, 09:19 AM

I'm interested in making a canopy for my 29g. Any idea's? How much should I expect to spend? The bottom line is itdoesn't have to look like the Taj Mahal it just has to work. I am thinking about going with wood over acrylic or metal, what kind of stain would you use to prevent the salt from rotting it out? I have a Current Sattellite light system and would like to make a seperate chamber within the canopy to hold that about 4 inches off the water and I want hinges on the back of the canopy so i can lift the whole top up and get into the tank and at my lights as necessary. Like I said above I want to spend as little on this as possible because i can't afford much right now but I would like to get an Anthias for my tank and they are jumpers. I tried the eggcrate but it made my tank too dark so I have decided to go with a cheap (hopefully) DIY canopy instead. Any thoughts, suggestions and/or opinions would be greatly appreciated!

The Saltwater Kid · #2 10/03/2006, 11:47 AM

bump

billm90 · #3 10/03/2006, 01:12 PM

I just built a real crappy one for my fresh water plant tank 29G.
I call it, just get it done.

I used 1x2 or 1x 1.5 wood and built a frame. basically it is a box on each end of the tank, with wood running the span of the tank.
The frame sits right on all the edges on the top of the tank.

I covered the frame with 1/4" birch and painted it black to match my cheapy stand.

The 1/4 birch hangs over the edges about 1" to hide the upper trim piece and keep the canopy on the tank.

It is nothing special, actually tried to do this tank as cheap as possible to leave funds open for my 100G salt water to get started.

I ran some more frame wood along the top to mount my florecent lights in it. I have 4 in there. I glued and used one of those electric nail guns to assmble it.

I did not leave room to access the tank. I actually built a door on the front and hated the light shining through so I turned it around and the door is in the back now. Useless. lol.

I have been thinking about how to do one the way you want.

I think I would build it the same way but move the top frame piece back 1" and connect the front and top together using another frame piece and call it done.

I dont have any pics, but I went ahead and made some 3d mockups really quick.

this is what I basically built.

if I were to try again. this is how I would do it.
Notice how I moves that top frame support back, and added 2 on the sides to stop the top from falling in.

I also left the top support connecting the top and front together.
I dont know if this design would need more frame support under the top of the canopy.

billm90 · #4 10/03/2006, 01:23 PM

as far as cost, I used the cheapest 1x2's or whatever they are. I think it was sub 3$ for 12 feet long.

the birch I used was a 2x4 foot piece. I think it was 8$ maybe 5, but I think the 2x2 foot piece was 5 dollars. This wood is cheap beacause it is hard to get a nice piece. it was knotted and cracked, I used left over filler on it. it was actually warped as well. I put it in the tank and saw that and was mad.

I let the paint dry for 2 days, put it in the tank and fired up my 4 lights. it got a little warm in there and smelled like paint so I threw it back outside over night. put it back on the tank and somehow it seems straight now.

the nail gun was 70, but I got it for other purposes.
the glue, well, I dont know.

my black paint was 7 bucks for a small can about 3" round. I used barrely any of it.

When I build a stand and canopy for my 100G I will use much nicer materials and designs. probably a lot thicker wood on the canopy coverings. at least 1/2 inch.

I basically got what I pad for, and it looks a lot nicer then that junky plastic stuff that comes with a cheap glass 29G tank.

sorry for all the spelling errors, I am trying to squeeze this in a hurry while I am at work.

Ratkiller · #5 10/03/2006, 01:33 PM

I have a gutted Eclipse3 hood you can have. Still in excellent shape. Shipping and it's yours.

The Saltwater Kid · #6 10/03/2006, 04:14 PM

Bill you have the right idea basically. You're right on how you have it opening up...that's how I envision it with hinges in the back (three maybe). On the inside maybe the first 4" I would like to leave open for access to the tank, then the next chamber would hold my lights with a lip all round that they would sit on and be held approximately 4" off the water, in the final chamber maybe just a piece of pvc pipe that extends out to the rear of the canopy as an exit for the cords to my lights. The rear of the canopy would have to be cut out in places to allow for my filter and skimmer. Do you think this is doable? Would you use pressure treated wood (I know it's a bit more exspensive but wouldn't it protect better vs. the salt)? I'm thinking I would probably want it to fit over the existing tank lip and come down over the outside about an 1" to cover the existing trim.

The Saltwater Kid · #7 10/03/2006, 08:28 PM

bump

melev · #8 10/04/2006, 01:14 AM

I have a page detailing how to make a canopy for a 29g using MH lighting. The cost was the wood, some glue and some screws. It didn't even use any hardware such as hinges.

From the back:

From the front and end:

This is how the front held on:

The Saltwater Kid · #9 10/04/2006, 06:19 AM

could you provide a link to that page Melev?

melev · #10 10/04/2006, 11:43 AM

I'll PM it to you.

billm90 · #11 10/04/2006, 12:35 PM

Yeah you can cut the back open and put your stuff behind it. I will be just a matter of acuratly measuring where you want the items hanging off that back, and transfer that over.
I cut the "door" I moved to the back for my filter hanging off the back. I just measured how far the filter was from the side, and how wide the filter is. cut it out with a jig saw.

Are you running a cover over the top of your tank? I cut a piece of plexi to cover mine.

As far as wood, I had no idea it could be such a big deal. I was reading another older thread and they said to not use treated wood. to use untreated wood, stain it, let it dry, and put a poly coating over it to seal it.

I actually rebuilt a hollow body guitar, and used 2 coats of the poly seal stuff from home depot. I left the guitar in the garage (lost intrest)for about 7 months, even got it wet with the hose, so far no problems with it comming apart, or water making it's way through the finish.

I would just allow a long period of time for the stain and the sealer to dry out before I put it on the tank.

billm90 · #12 10/04/2006, 12:40 PM

Melev

that canopy door is pretty cool!

The Saltwater Kid · #13 10/04/2006, 02:54 PM

I don't have a top on my tank right now as most people say it's better for lighting purposes...allowing more light to get into the tank where as glass tops filter the amount of light and get dirty quickly but if you want certain fish that are known jumpers you have to do something, that's where I'm at now.

billm90 · #14 10/04/2006, 04:19 PM

I can see your point about the glass/plexi cover.

Mine does get spotted, but I want to make sure the fish/shrimp stay inside.

I originally had 3 normal flourecent bulbs in there, when I added the cover I made it 4 to over power the anything that the cover might stop. I noticed when it is warm in the house, the canopy gets a little warm, I opened the door on the back about the 3-4" of travel it has and it helps vent the heat. if you have some powerful lights you may want to consider a fan. I am not familar with your light set up and the heat it makes.

maybe you could make a plaxi cover with a hole where your lights are so the get full coverage in there. This way any side splashes will not get in contact with the sides of the canopy, and limit the amount of water to canopy contact.

A side not, I sprayed the inside of my canopy white to help reflect the light. on a salt water set up, I think a reflector would help out, and this would stop any water from hitting the canopy and possible going back in the tank cantaminated. and at the same time stop the salt water from eating your canopy alive.

The Saltwater Kid · #15 10/04/2006, 08:53 PM

I have a 130w PC lighting, a Current Satellite fixture that has a fan built into it so I think I'd be okay with the heat issue but I'd cut a circular hole in each end for the fan to vent anyway.