AEFW treatment?

Sullyman · #1 11/20/2007, 07:05 PM

Is there a tried and true treatment yet? I've read through most of the threads about them and didn't come away with confidence.
Fluke tabs, FW exit, the pig medicine lamosile or something are all mentioned as treatments but seem to have many cons or unknowns.
If you had infected coral in QT, what would be the best way to get rid of them permenantly?

cham · #2 11/20/2007, 08:45 PM

There is one treatment that has shown effective in removing all AEFW's.

The only issue with it is getting ahold of one.

Sullyman · #3 11/20/2007, 10:25 PM

There's proven heat issues with that treatment...........

fishdoc11 · #4 11/20/2007, 11:48 PM

From what I have experienced and read the easiest way to get AEFW's off of a coral is to frag the coral and take the frags with no bare tissue (no place for eggs to be laid) and dip them in TMPCC or levamisole and move them to a "clean" tank. It doesn't hurt to dip them 2 or 3 more times over the next couple of weeks. The stump would need to be treated by one of the methods you have read about.
hth, Chris

tanya72806 · #5 11/21/2007, 11:54 AM

there has to be another way there has to be something that eats them in the wild or they would be a unbelievable amount of them eating all the acros out there

Horace · #6 11/21/2007, 11:58 AM

like we have pointed out in other threads, some shrimp seem to eat them, but the shrimp wont touch them in a normal tank because there is too much other food avail. If the shrimp get to that point, they will also eat the coral if left in there, so at the moment, the perfect predetor has not been found.

tanya72806 · #7 11/21/2007, 12:06 PM

Kurt im well read up on that thread I read it first in the other forum it started in. The thing is in the wild camel shrimp like you stated would not be eating them since there will be more food avail for them so there must be some type of fish or invert that eats them

Philwd · #8 11/21/2007, 03:36 PM

I'm no longer a believer in TMPCC. Here's what I have done so far.

Took frags of every colony. Frag could not have any bite marks and no eggs.

Did double strength TMPCC dip. Took to a friend's house to QT in separate tank.

Issues in the QT made me take them out after 10 days. Did another double strength TMPCC dip. Inspected and saw no bite marks or eggs. Put frags in frag tank.

Fast forward 2 months. Frag tank is full of survivors. Display is sitting acro less. Had treated tri colors one more time as that's their fav meal. However found this week full grown FW and eggs in the frag tank. These got through 2 or 3 double strength TMPCC dips on frags with no visible signs of infestation.

I used the TLF Coral Revive this time. Knocked the ones I could see off in 30 sec. They squirmed for ~ 2 min then were still. I did 20 min treatment on every coral in the frag tank. The treatment is less stressful on the corals. I am seeing some acros with no damage color up again already with full PE which tells me there were some FW the new treatment got that had not yet caused visible effects.

I am going to repeat this every 5 days.

On a side note a buddy of mine who works at a LFS here in town tried Potassium Permanganate at the dosages it took to get the nudi eggs but the corals didn't take it.

ezcompany · #9 11/21/2007, 05:51 PM

I create a bucket of TMPCC and Fluke tabs until the water is a brown milky white. I dip the corals and for 10 minutes, i point a maxijet at full blast towards the coral and move the powerhead around to point at different angles. then i flip the coral and do the same to the underside. Before i place the coral back i then get a turkey baster and do squirts to spots i may have missed. i then rinse the coral in freshly made saltwater and place back in the tank. i did this 3 times over the past 2 weeks and so far so good.

fishdoc11 · #10 11/21/2007, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Philwd
I'm no longer a believer in TMPCC. Here's what I have done so far.

Took frags of every colony. Frag could not have any bite marks and no eggs.

Did double strength TMPCC dip. Took to a friend's house to QT in separate tank.

Issues in the QT made me take them out after 10 days. Did another double strength TMPCC dip. Inspected and saw no bite marks or eggs. Put frags in frag tank.

Fast forward 2 months. Frag tank is full of survivors. Display is sitting acro less. Had treated tri colors one more time as that's their fav meal. However found this week full grown FW and eggs in the frag tank. These got through 2 or 3 double strength TMPCC dips on frags with no visible signs of infestation.

I used the TLF Coral Revive this time. Knocked the ones I could see off in 30 sec. They squirmed for ~ 2 min then were still. I did 20 min treatment on every coral in the frag tank. The treatment is less stressful on the corals. I am seeing some acros with no damage color up again already with full PE which tells me there were some FW the new treatment got that had not yet caused visible effects.

I am going to repeat this every 5 days.

On a side note a buddy of mine who works at a LFS here in town tried Potassium Permanganate at the dosages it took to get the nudi eggs but the corals didn't take it.

Interesting or scary info depending on how you look at it

I'm curious to see how the new treatment works out for you Philwd.
I treated as described on 7/2/07 and haven't seen any signs since. They may show up any day but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Chris

bobbet43 · #11 11/21/2007, 07:21 PM

i treated with tmpcc, once a week for 3 weeks. it has been 2 months with no signs of the little devils. anyone know how long it will take for signs to show again? i know thats a loaded question. BTW i tripled the dose of tmpcc with a dip for 1 hour, lost only 1 frag but the pink birdsnest has gone brown. hopfully with time it will turn pink again

Philwd · #12 11/21/2007, 09:14 PM

I don't know bobbet. You did a longer and stronger TMPCC than I did. I only went the prescribed 15 min but did double the strength. I would say you'd have to take every coral out of the tank and look at the backs and undersides because that's where they were this 2nd time. I even saw a coral I had mounted 2 mo. ago have a thin line of eggs where it had receeded from the super glue and hadn't fully grown back. No bite marks. So they laid their eggs at the base of the next victim. If I didn't know what to look for I would have missed those eggs.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed Chris. This Coral Revive works fast. It took almost no agitation to get them to drop off. Just a gentle twist. Of course I did more vigorous agitation than that but was experimenting on a big one I could see.

sdietz2469 · #13 11/22/2007, 12:46 AM

might be a dumb question, but does anyone have pics of the aefw, their eggs, and bite marks..... not that i have ever had them, knock on wood, but i need to know what to look for when buying corals or if something starts to go wrong.... oh and where do you get tmpcc, or this coral revive where im no spending a hundred dollars getting treatment? let me know... shane

Philwd · #14 11/22/2007, 12:55 AM

Here are some bite marks on a bonsai.

And here are some eggs. A real thick layer that went around the whole base. Most egg sites have just a few.

And a better pic of the FW that laid the eggs leaving.

I got Coral Revive at Marine Depot. I get TMPCC at my LFS.

sdietz2469 · #15 11/22/2007, 01:01 AM

so the flat worms are black? and the bite marks are an off color in the tissue?

sdietz2469 · #16 11/22/2007, 01:03 AM

they look tiny, are they easy to notice? is there anything that kill the eggs? or do i need to search my corals and srape them off?
if you get them in your show tank can you get rid of them by dipping all of your corals?
shane

Philwd · #17 11/22/2007, 01:05 AM

In the last pic the FW is the brown elongated thing in the upper left center. The bite marks are the circular light areas in first pic That's where coral tissue was eaten. I chose this pic because it's easier to see them against a darker background.

sdietz2469 · #18 11/22/2007, 01:07 AM

so right under the words " that laid the eggs"?

Philwd · #19 11/22/2007, 01:24 AM

The FW you see there is full grown about 1/3". Freshly hatched are essentially invisible. Nothing I know of kills the eggs and leaves the coral alive. Every coral I saw with eggs I threw away. These guys can lay eggs anywhere. I saw a pic of eggs on a zoo polyp. So you can't just dip and place back in display. I believe you have to get every last piece of acro and encrusted base out and leave the display acroless to starve them out. Most go 2 months.

I honestly don't remember if Stoney Mahony's fluke tab regimen could be used in display. Might want to search that. In the old days the method to treat these was basting the corals every couple days to blow them off and wrasses to eat them up.

The thing I first noticed is my corals were looking blotchy. Spotty. Lightening up. It wasn't STN. The FW take on the color of the zooanthellae they eat so they are very well camouflaged unless you happen to see one on eaten areas.

Sullyman · #20 11/22/2007, 01:24 AM

That football shape is the devil.............

Philwd · #21 11/22/2007, 01:24 AM

Yep right under those words.

sdietz2469 · #22 11/22/2007, 01:32 AM

%$#@ these thing suck, so the best method is to never get them, and check and treat all corals.... lps sps and softies alike...... whoa... thats scary......
thanks for the info... i will look more carefully when i buy from now on......

Sullyman · #23 11/22/2007, 02:04 AM

Thanks, this is going to be a long 2 months of dipping.
Once this is over I'll be taking a much different approach with any new coral.