What's too old?

gkmartinez · #1 03/17/2006, 12:06 PM

I bought a 180g tank from someone local. He told me he had it about 10 years. I had it set up about 18 months. It never leaked but it would need new overflows. I can replace those I think.

I tore the tank down to get out of the hobby due to personel reasons. However that is easier said than done.

I am now considering staying in the hobby.

My concern is that the tank is too old.

Is there is a risk with the glass breaking?

Should I just buy a new tank?

Your opinions would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

SunnyX · #2 03/17/2006, 12:23 PM

10 years is a long time for a tank.
Some people have had tanks running for longer than 10 years without any problems.

I personally wouldnt take the risk.

You are better off purchasing a new tank with overflows built in.

sullyfish · #3 03/17/2006, 12:25 PM

If it were me I would by a new tank.

I am setting up a 180 in wall and looked at several used ones before getting new, and I am very happy with the new all-glass 180 I picked up. I like the new double sided overflows with the extra intake at the bottom. I know several locals that have gone with used tanks and have developed leaks resulting in disaster. Yours maybe OK, but not sure how you can guarantee w/o filling it up and praying.I would not be as concerned with the glass breaking as I would be with the seals leaking. I have heard that these seals can develop leaks when the tank has been filled and then sat empty repeated times, not sure how true that is

gkmartinez · #4 03/17/2006, 12:27 PM

That's kind of what my gut was telling me. Thank you. any suggestions on what to do with the tank? Just throw it away? Hate to waste the glass.

svb57 · #5 03/17/2006, 12:27 PM

I converted a 15 year old 125AGA into a reef ready tank by drilling (9) holes without an issue. Have had no prolems what so ever. There should be no issue of the glass breaking.

JMO

Jim Mc

ruiny · #6 03/17/2006, 01:04 PM

I have a 25 year old 33 gal tank that has been filed, emptyed and moved dozens of times without any problems.
I really don't think you will have any problems with the glass itself but if anything the silicone may leak.
Most all silcone has a lifetime warranty on it meaning that it should last a long time.
If the tank is in good shape than I would chance it.
If you don't want to than sell the old tank to someone that will take the risk or reseal it with new silicone.
just me $.02

gkmartinez · #7 03/17/2006, 01:21 PM

cool. Thanks everyone. I really do appreciate your responses.

Ron R. · #8 03/17/2006, 01:38 PM

I have a 1985 180g Oceanic presently used for freshwater. I resealed her 18 mos ago and she is as good as new. Not 1 leak in all this time and since I've had her (1988).

I was worried too. That's why I took the time to scrap off the old silicone, clean the area well (with alcohol), tape it and ran a good bead of silicone. I used my wet finger to smooth the bead into the corner and immediately pulled off the tape. Very professional looking job for a first-timer.

Gallandro · #9 03/17/2006, 03:33 PM

I would not be worried about the glass, but the silicone. The tanks can be resealed though .. Save the glass.

gkmartinez · #10 03/17/2006, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Ron R.

I was worried too. That's why I took the time to scrap off the old silicone, clean the area well (with alcohol), tape it and ran a good bead of silicone. I used my wet finger to smooth the bead into the corner and immediately pulled off the tape. Very professional looking job for a first-timer.

Is it really this easy?

Any particular type of silicone?

Crusty Old Shellback · #11 03/17/2006, 03:37 PM

I had a 60 G tank that I bought used and ran it off and on since '90. It never had a problem.

If it's not leaking and still looks good, then I'd say use it. Why spend money on a new one if you don't really need to. Do you think that the big long running aquariums replace their tanks every 10 years? I don't think so.

Ron R. · #12 03/17/2006, 06:08 PM

I used the GE 1 silicone. There is a GE II which you do not want to use because it has additives to make it mildew resistant.

It is easy if you prep everything. I pulled off as much of the silicone as I could using my fingers at first then I used a straight razor blade. Do not remove the glue that holds the glass panes together. Don't go sticking your razor blade in there or you risk the chance of compromising the strength of the bond there. I used alcohol to clean the corners well. This removed every last bit of silicone and gave me a clean surface for the new silicone.

I used the blue masking tape you use when painting. It sticks, but not a strongly as regular masking tape and it does the job here. I ran the tape somewhere between 1/4" and 1/2" from the corner and ran it from the top to the bottom of the tank.

I got a good caulking gun and laid down a consistently thick bead from the bottom to the top. You don't want to lay down too little which defeats your purpose or too much which will get messy. Only do 1 corner at a time.

Using disposable gloves ( i guess I could have gone bare skin also) I wet my finger, pressed down on the bead and smoothed it out. You want to push down enough to be sure the silicone gets down into the corners, but not too much or you will be left with a thin layer of silicone. Some of the silicone will run over onto the blue tape....that's ok. I did my best to run my finger from the bottom of the tank to the top and only 1 time because this stuff gets thicker quick and tends to get sticky. I made the mistake of leaving my tape on for 1-2 minutes after this procedure and some of my silicone came up with it. I had to re-do my first corner twice. This is how you learn.

I lifted the tape immediately after smoothing down the bead and what you have left is a smooth silicone corner with straight lines.

This stuff smells to high heaven. It's a strong vinegar smell and you have to let it cure for 24 hours. You should not have any vinegar smell once it's cured. I let mine set for 2-3 days and then added my rocks, sand and water.

If you mess up and don't like the look, simply let it dry and repeat the procedure. I did a better job resealing my tank than I did re-caulking my bathtub. Priorities, the tank comes first. LOL

gkmartinez · #13 03/17/2006, 06:22 PM

Cool! I am getting excited again!

vair · #14 03/17/2006, 06:40 PM

I don't know for sure but Ron R. and his resealing advice I'm not so sure I'd go for that. It would seem to me that the silicone you need to replace or redo is the silicone holding the tank together, not the silicone that makes it look all pretty skimming the surface. Just my .02 worth.

Dave

Nanook · #15 03/17/2006, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Ron R.
I used the GE 1 silicone. There is a GE II which you do not want to use because it has additives to make it mildew resistant.

It is easy if you prep everything. I pulled off as much of the silicone as I could using my fingers at first then I used a straight razor blade. Do not remove the glue that holds the glass panes together. Don't go sticking your razor blade in there or you risk the chance of compromising the strength of the bond there. I used alcohol to clean the corners well. This removed every last bit of silicone and gave me a clean surface for the new silicone.

I used the blue masking tape you use when painting. It sticks, but not a strongly as regular masking tape and it does the job here. I ran the tape somewhere between 1/4" and 1/2" from the corner and ran it from the top to the bottom of the tank.

I got a good caulking gun and laid down a consistently thick bead from the bottom to the top. You don't want to lay down too little which defeats your purpose or too much which will get messy. Only do 1 corner at a time.

Using disposable gloves ( i guess I could have gone bare skin also) I wet my finger, pressed down on the bead and smoothed it out. You want to push down enough to be sure the silicone gets down into the corners, but not too much or you will be left with a thin layer of silicone. Some of the silicone will run over onto the blue tape....that's ok. I did my best to run my finger from the bottom of the tank to the top and only 1 time because this stuff gets thicker quick and tends to get sticky. I made the mistake of leaving my tape on for 1-2 minutes after this procedure and some of my silicone came up with it. I had to re-do my first corner twice. This is how you learn.

I lifted the tape immediately after smoothing down the bead and what you have left is a smooth silicone corner with straight lines.

This stuff smells to high heaven. It's a strong vinegar smell and you have to let it cure for 24 hours. You should not have any vinegar smell once it's cured. I let mine set for 2-3 days and then added my rocks, sand and water.

If you mess up and don't like the look, simply let it dry and repeat the procedure. I did a better job resealing my tank than I did re-caulking my bathtub. Priorities, the tank comes first. LOL

GREAT EXPLANATION!!!!

Thanks,

Dave

Shoestring Reefer · #16 03/18/2006, 11:02 AM

I did the same as Ron R. with my 125.

Gallandro · #17 03/18/2006, 05:30 PM

vair, most of the strengh is in the silicone between where the glass meets. But doing as Ron R has sugested doeshelp. It can buy years for a tank.

A few tips, Silicone does not stick to Silicome, make sure you get it all off before resealing.

Wet your fingers and it wont stick to them.

When buying Silicone (GE prefered) dont buy any Silicone sealent. some of the new ones in DIY stores arnt the real thing. They will wash off your fingers, and dont have the strong smell Ron describes.