My 300 gallon acrylic tank

[tanya72806]

Steve sweet setup looks great

[steve the plumb]

Thanks for all the nice comments.Now as far as lighting goes.I was going to go all T5 but then reading threads people who have both have a nice look to the tank and corals.I have read some posts and the problem with acrylic tanks is when using mh the heat causes cracks in the tank and eventually will weaken the tank and cause it to bow(look at Kevin Pro thread)I have read this once or twice and I am concerned.I spent alot of money on this tank(I have yet to fill it) the last thing I want is to have to change it 6 or 7 years down the line.I AM NOT GETTING ANOTHER TANK!!! This will be my final Tank.So as that is said My plan was to get 2 custom 48" fixtures with 2x 250 watt MH and 6x54 watt T5 plus moon lights.I may just go with all T5 like I had planned in the first place.The tank will be easier to cool and The heat will be easier to manage(I hope).The fixture was going to have fans built in.My skimmer guy was going(still is) to make me a pair of acrylic legs(a few inches in height) so that the lights can sit on the tank.I am thinking to go with 12 bulb units or 12 bulbs with one 150 watt mh at least 2x 150 total mh won't be that bad.What do you guys think.I SAY AGAIN THIS IS MY LAST TANK AND I WANT THE TANKS TO LAST FOR MANY YEARS TO COME(we can grow old together)The tank already overpowers my basement,so I am not getting another one.Who needs drugs when you have this hobby.

[jnarowe]

no kidding! First of all I do want to point out that T5 arrays are not neccessarily cooler than halides. I have measured temps as high as 198F on the glass surface of my Aqua-Medic 8 x 54w T5 array. Typically they are mounted closer to the water, as you discuss above, so I wouldn't be too sure that you will not be adding significantly less heat.

As you stated, your unit will have built in fans, so that is a plus, but keep in mind that they will be drawing salt air through the fixture and the fixture itself may have a shorter lifesapn a=than you would expect.

Also, I would find having the fixture on legs on top of the tank a major hassle when trying to do maintainance, aquascaping etc. There are so many cool options for mounting lights so that they can be moved out of the way, I would suggest you do somemore research on this. Plus having the legs sitting on the tank will create a point of contact between an electrical device and your tank.

Check out this T5 Install. Check out my T5 install:



Using the cables allows me to infinitely adjust the lamp height above the tank and this is extremely valuable for controlling how much light a species is getting, and how much heat is being transferred to the tank. More control/flexibility is a good thing!

[steve the plumb]

My wife doesn't want me to hang the lights.She doesn't want to see more screws or holes in the ceiling(she is nuts)The acrylic legs that the guy is going to make me will allow me to take the lights off the tank when working on it.Its a pain but I had suspended pendants before and I found unless its on a rail its more of a pain.I got my sump today and started to work on it.Its a 125 gal tank 6ftx18"x22" height.Its drilled so I can put a 1" bulkhead(witch I have) for a return pump

[steve the plumb]

I washed the tank and cleaned it and started on the partition.Yes my silicone job wasn't neat.I wasn't in the mood to do a great clean job I had a fight with the wife over the size of the tank and the holes in the concrete wall

[steve the plumb]

A pic of the tank.I am not finished with the partitions

[steve the plumb]

[steve the plumb]

Top view of the drains.I was forced to used more fittings since the tank was higher than my holes.Drains should still work properly

[steve the plumb]

A dsb will be on the left side.I might make room for another one on the right side.This way I can clean out one at a time.It will be easier to replace them and not worry about it affecting my bio load since I will have 2 DSB sections.

[jnarowe]

yeah...making progress though! I have my display tank lamps on rails too. In fact I am using light movers to move the lamps back and forth during the day.

[steve the plumb]

I was going to get light mover but because every time I do something that involves drilling holes in the ceiling the wife complains.She already isn't to thrilled about the size of the tank and sump.So I opted for to separate fixtures.I may get 150 watt MH bulbs(2 of them) just to get a little shimmer I will see.I didn't want a canopy because its a pain to lift if you have to get in the back or bottom of the tank.I don't think lifting a 4 ft fixture will be that hard.I have covers for the top of the tank.I will see if I am going to use them.This way the entire tank will be covered but the sump area will be open.I will have to see about that because the heat from the lamps might raise the tank temp.I will be looking at this before any corals are added.I want to figure out any potential problems before livestock gets added.

[erics3000]

So have you decided what lights you are going to use? I am really thinking about thoes soloar things. I am just not to thrilled about cutting a hole in the roof. I am not to concerned about the ceiling.

I like how you seperated your sand beds. Great idea about checking all your parameters and water temp before going crazy with the livestock. I am just trying not to get a chiller myself.

Great Job on keeping the pics coming. Great Work..

[jnarowe]

I think you will find that the tank covers will quickly become salt encrusted and block quite a bit of light. It will also limit gas exchange and trap heat. That could work against you.

I get a little wary about handling electrical devices around SW, so that would be my main concern, but I also add that tank maintainance can be difficult and when things restrict your movement around and over your tank, over time that can reduce your motivation and your system may suffer for it. No lecture about it from me, but just passing on my personal experiences.

[cbui2]

i noticed the tank is on concrete floor, will you be using any wood w/ foam padding? then if wood and foam was used you would probably need to make the fittings higher

[jnarowe]

well, maybe he is going to cool with the cement?

[steve the plumb]

Yes I was going to put the tank on wood or foam but I will have to raise the fittings(I didn't glue them)I was going to leave it on the cement is there a problem with that.The sump isn't 100% level but its not that bad either.Its a 125 gal tank and my partitions are 17 " in height.I may put some Styrofoam insulation around the tank for the winter months.The garage has a heater but its still a bit cold.Since the glass isn't touching the floor I don't know how cold the tank will get.I guess that depends on the room.Like I said I will see if I have to insulate.I don't know if I will use those acrylic tank covers.I am thinking humidity will create salt creep.I only have about an inch from the water surface to the top of the tank.I think the only way to clean the top is a squeegee.Eric 3000 I think I may go all T5 I am concerned about the direct heat of an MH bulb on acrylic.I know that T5 give off just as much heat but its over a larger surface area.I may go with 2x 150 watt Mh per fixture just to get a little shimmer.Gas exchange?Well I have the entire sump area for that plus the water falling from the sump.I forgot to mention My skimmer will be using a dart NW pump so thats more heat to the tank plus now I will run and external pump for my return.Does anyone have any ideas as to what pump I should go with for my return.It has to be a 1" inlet 3/4" outlet.Thank you for all the nice comments and the critique(Jnarowe) I feel as if I am being graded for my school project.

[jnarowe]

no offense meant at all. I wouldn't use anything other than a Sequence pump for a return.

[cbui2]

just checking to see what was being used

[steve the plumb]

I am not going to use a sequence pump is to big.I only have about 4 ft of head loss.Plus the sequence pumps require a larger hole.I am not going to drill a bigger hole in the sump so we will have to go with a 1" inlet pump.Now what pump shall we use.Is the fact that my tank is on cement a problem.Will it cause me any problems with the plastic bracing.Please feel free to comment or critique(jnarowe this means you) Cbui2 you can also critique,the more the merrier.It helps to get different opinions.Thank You all.I have done nothing with the tank today.I came home late and pretty tired from work so it was a long day.I sat on a plank all day and my *** and back are soar.

[erics3000]

I am using a dart for my return like a lot of people here. It sounds like a nice quiet pump that isn't a hog on electric. I guess you don't feel like drilling it again.
When you drilled your tank did you use a whole saw or a bit on a drememl I don't remember. I just bought a tile bit and still am not too sure. They had a diamond bit for etching but it said not for drilling. The head looked flat compared to the tile bit

[jnarowe]

yeah it's hard to say about it being on the cement. If it were me, I would have placed it on a styrofoam sheet. I put all my tanks on them, but, some glass tank manufacturers specifically state to not do that because it can add stress to the glass.

The fact is, the cement may provide some temp. control so there is no way to really know until you get it up and running through all the seasons. Because cement will allow moisture through, you may end up with mold on the underside of the tank.

If you are not going to use a Sequence, I guess the next best thing would be an Eheim 1260. I can't figure out how you only have 4 ft. of headloss though. That is surprising to me.

[steve the plumb]

Height wise my stand is 28 " and the tank is another 24" then the sump is 22" and maybe another 6 " because my garage is slightly lower than my basement floor. I am thinking 4 to 5 feet of vertical head loss.I am not talking horizontal.In all my basement floor isn't much higher than my garage floor.We used 2x4 and plywood for the basement floor.There is tar paper and the floor was leveled.There is a foam and carpet on top of the plywood.So there may be about 4" to 5" of height difference between my basement floor and my garage.Maybe 8" lets say.I was thinking something like a iwaki pump.Eric my tank was already drilled when I bought it so it came with a 1" hole.Rather than enlarge it I figured I will get a pump to fit that size.I was going to use a mag 24 .I have a mag 18 witch was fine on my 150gal.The dart pump wouldn't be a bad idea but then I have to dremel the hole larger.

[steve the plumb]

What about this pumphttp://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~JW1153.html

[jnarowe]

Well, I have heard those are good pumps, but for about the same price you can get a Dart. The Dart ($229) is rated at 3600 gph at 135 watts where the Panworld is rated at 1100 gph at 180 watts. There's just no cmparison IMO.

[steve the plumb]

Well how would I enlarge the hole.I would have to use a dremel.More work.You are right less wattage more water and good price.What bit do I have to buy to enlarge the hole.Maybe I can leave it as a drain (for water changes and drill another hole for 1 1/2" bulkhead) but then I will go from 1 1/2" to 3/4".I think thats not good.I will see what I will do.I don't think the dart would be good for me .To reduce to 3/4" is kind of restrictive.