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#1
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Schedule 40 Assembly time - tips please!
I've finally made all the decisions that needed to be made to get my plumbing together below my new tank.
If you've any tips to avoid leaks while assembling schedule 40 please let me know, I've so many fittings and valves going on that any leaks will get expensive. How has your luck been in assembling things leak free? |
#2
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Hello
Just make sure you clean both surfaces of the pvc with cleaner before putting on the glue. Also give the pipe a twist into the fitting and make sure it's in all the way!! Glued PVC has a tendency to push apart when glued so push together and hold for a short while making sure not to let the parts push apart. Being clean is the most important part and you can NOT use too much cleaner! Good Luck Dave |
#3
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I second that.
Make sure you use a good glue, don't use any Pool Tite glue, this stuff sucks. I had a case at work and sent it back after glueing some pieces and looking at the quality of glue and how crappy it looks. Rain or shine blue glue is some good stuff...that or Oatey. Be sure to hold the fittings as Dave Dunbar mentioned as they do tend to push out after being glued. Do a couple of test fittings to get it right. Always think about how your going to put each piece in as well...remember there are some things you can't move to get that small piece of plumbing to fit...so have a game plan on how your going to assemble it all.
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Knowing something is having first hand experience - Me Having a high post count doesn't necessarily show intelligence or knowledge, it simply shows you just talk a lot. - Me |
#4
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When you do your test fitting, get it aligned exactly how you want it, then mark the outside edge of both pieces with a perm marker.
Then when you do the final glue together, insert the pieces about 1/4" off the mark from each other, then insert together and twist to your mark and hold. Whallah, perfect alignment. |
#5
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Thanks for the good tips, how many times have you had leak problems after assembly?
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#6
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make sure you deburr the pipes before glueing them,most leaks occur from the glue being pushed into the pipe from a sharp nondeburred edge.
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click the little red house for my 150g build thread. |
#7
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Sand, Prime, Cement. EVERY joint. Buying a pair of good (~$30) ratcheting cutters is worth having if you're doing more than just a few cuts. The Rain And Shine (which is made by Oatey) that was brought up is mainly for use when the pipe is possibly already damp. Use plenty of purple primer and I'd recommend heavy duty clear cement. Also, as already said, give the pipe or fitting a 1/4 turn while inserting to force out air bubbles, and hold the pieces firmly together for 30 seconds after insertion.
I do not dry fit. I measure instead. After some practice and thinking it's a lot less work. Typically dry pieces do not insert completely and are hard to remove. Usually the results will be sore fingers, scratched up PVC (from the channel locks you'll resort to), and too short. Last tip, an extra set of hands and several old newspapers will be welcome. With all that a friend and I did a pretty complicated plumbing job for a 120g with 182 cemented joints over 3 nights and not 1 leaked. Let the cement cure for 24 hours and blow air through the line (outside if possible for the smell) afterwards before putting water in. |
#8
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"Not cheap, but silent and absofrickenlutely no bubbles" "Be sure and wear a speedo lest tangs nest in your britches" |
#9
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Thanks H20Eng thats a very good rundown.
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#10
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Can anybody comment on how often they get leaks when assembling...
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#11
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Quote:
Great tips Chris. Brett
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She ain't broke, but can we fix her more better? |
#12
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Quote:
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