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Is there a Zoanthid forum curse ?
I've had zoanthids for seven or eight years, They've been the easiest corals I've ever had. Here's a recent pic,
I've since fragged back the leather and nepthea and removed the fungia. But back to the point. I've only been posting on this forum a couple of weeks, During that time my Zoas seem to have gone down hill. Some colonies don't open as much and my blues appear to have white spots. At first I wrote it off to greater awareness. That was until today when there in the middle of the front glass was a Zoa eating nudi. Two weeks ago I had never heard of or seen a zoa eating nudi. So, does reading the Zoa forum cause a curse on my tank ?
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Less technology , more biology . |
#2
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Of all the curses, I consider the zoo eating nudi the most insignificant. Thank your stars, it could be a lot worse.
nalbar |
#3
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what did you add? did you dip and check for eggs? BOL it is very easy to beat. Good looking nano! I like those on the top right middle-kind of blue-silver
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"without deviation from the norm, progress is not possible" F-Zappa |
#4
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Re: Is there a Zoanthid forum curse ?
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#5
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Top middle when it was new,
Pic doesn't do it justice..............
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Less technology , more biology . |
#6
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Wow, so sorry to hear that. I guess the one good thing about this , if there is one, is that you have a smaller more manageable system that will greatly benefit you in eradicating those nudis.
I'm with Geo, have you isolated what it was that you purchased recently? It doesn't have to be coral either. A nudi can hitch a ride on live rock alone with no corals at all. Hang tough, you'll defeat them. Mucho Reef
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"Anyone can build a reef, the greater challenge........... is to grow one" |
#7
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We try to REMOVE zoa-curses here!
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#8
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AARRGGHH ....... Sucked out two more nudis just doing random siphoning of closed up colonies. Guess it's a tear down and dip situation. Hate to do it as the tank has been up 5 years with minimal minor changes. The DSB will have to go, the mini brittle stars (not asterinia) probably not survive. My clownfish will not be happy, but maybe the stress will finally result in spawning. (Gotta look for the silver lining )
So can somebody give me a link or set by step for dipping zoas to eradicate the nudis ?
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Less technology , more biology . |
#9
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I would just FW dip the corals in tap as it has a higher PH, or RODI and adjust the PH to your tank. I use tincture but if you have some luglos that is fine. I would do at least 10 drops per gl. for about 5 min. Shake the crap out of them after the dip and look for egg sacs. They look like this except white/clear @.
Mucho has a sticky at the top of this forum as well. Good luck and have fun dipping corals on Christmas day!
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"without deviation from the norm, progress is not possible" F-Zappa |
#10
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Time to get a guard... yellow coris
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" This hobby can really give you one of the best highs and the worst lows any hobbyist can experience within a small given time". " Charles V " |
#11
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This is a ten gallon with a pair of clowns (black ocellaris) no room for another fish.
For giggles I tried something. Kept lowering the SG of the water the nudis are in. At 1.010 they appeared to curl up and die. Rather than go full fresh (which is hard to adjust pH) I wonder if extreme hyposalinity will accomplish the same thing ? I've seen pics of the egg sacs. Already checked out all the stickies, doesn't everybody ? Mixing water as we speak ..............
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Less technology , more biology . |
#12
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There is no need to tear down your tank. There is no need for a FW dip. IMO all of that will cause more stress than the nudis.
I have had nudis about 4 times over the years, no outbreak lasting more than about 3 weeks. My last outbreak (two months ago) lasted 10 days. I can honestly say I have never lost a polyp to a nudi. I have had them tear up a few, but they recover quickly. Quite simply, they are not a serious occurance in a reef tank, unless the tank is a BIG one. They are REALLY stupid. They do not have the sense to stay out of sight. Just syphon when you see one. When the nudi gets on a poylp, it closes, making the nudi REALLY easy to see. Syphon, syphon, syphon. It is really as simple as that. nalbar |
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Quote:
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Less technology , more biology . |
#14
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Quote:
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Less technology , more biology . |
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I use a long piece of that stiff, clear plastic tubing they sell at LFS's. I think it's quater inch but it might be 3 eighths inch. I hold my finger over the dry end and lower it over the nudi, let off my finger, causing a suction in the tube. The nudi gets sucked up the tube, then I put my finger back over the tube and lift the nudi out. Then I experiment on him.
I do it this way so I am not removing a lot of water for a single nudi. nalbar |
#16
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Hey Agu here is the original Zoa dip thread.....
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=451720 Sorry to hear about your nudi's, but you can beat it! |
#17
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Nitrate curse prob.
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Chaeto 2, Nitrates 0 |
#18
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I have a plan.
Went by my LFS late afternoon and the owner was there feeding and checking the livestock. Picked up a new 10 gallon and spray painted the back black. The current tank has several scratches, a deep sand bed that's got to go, and the back is covered with zoas. It's going to be too much mess emptying the tank ,cleaning it, and putting it back in place when a new one was $12. The leathers, nepthea, and shrooms will be freshwater dipped and moved to a frag tank that's already set up and cycled. Is it safe to assume any nudis that survive are obligate zoa feeders and will starve in the Q tank ? Then the zoas will be dipped with a freshwater lugols solution and transferred to a tub with flow and heat. I have to remove every piece of live rock because there isn't a rock without zoas in the tank. The clownfish and cleanup crew also goes into the tub. Should I salt water rinse be given the dipped rock to avoid getting Lugols in the holding tub? Then the tanks get swapped out, all equipment gets thoroughly cleaned (after 5 years it's due), and the new tank is put in place with new substrate (shallow this time). The next hour is spent picking worms and pods out of the old tank to seed the new tank . I'll let the new tank run for a day or two with the sand seeded and live rock rubble in the aquaclear just to stabilize the tank (and to make sure everything is working properly). After a couple of days everything is redipped and rinsed in saltwater and returned to the tank. Special attention of course to any colony that doesn't look 100% .
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Less technology , more biology . Last edited by Agu; 12/25/2007 at 10:06 PM. |
#19
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Watch out for nudi eggs on the zoanthids. The dip won't kill these. You'll have to pick them off by hand or they will hatch and re infest the tank.
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Kirk |
#20
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have you tried magnesium dip for those nudis? it works pretty well.
it's weird that they popped out all of a sudden, did you add anything new recently?
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BEB Studio Spring '08 Smash them New England bricks! |
#21
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It's my own fault. I swapped some euphyllia frags for what appeared to be pink palys at my LFS about a month ago. First of all they turned light brown . Secondly they're the only zoas/paly in my tank that aren't captive propagated. Didn't realize that until I tried to figure out how I got the infestation in the first place
Removed every coral that wasn't encrusted to the rock structure and dipped them tonight. They're in the Q tank now. Tomorrow the rest of the rock gets dipped and moved to a tupperware tub while I replace the tank and clean the equipment.
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Less technology , more biology . |
#22
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Quote:
good luck with the dipping it usually goes pretty smooth and you should be all nudi free before you know it. good luck PL
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"without deviation from the norm, progress is not possible" F-Zappa |
#23
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Dipped the rest of the rock and it wasn't pretty. Saved 5 mini brittle stars but most if the micro fauna didn't make it. The dip tub was filled with dead pods . The DSB smelled pretty bad, glad I decided to replace it after 5 years. All the rock and the clowns are in a tupperware tub while the new tank clears. Tomorrow morning with morning sun coming in the east window eack rock gets checked for eggs and I get to put the tank back together.
I'm already mixing more saltwater. It's safe to assume the tank will have some cycle. Geoxman, They're from Bali according to the LFS. Obviously I can't get a pic right now. Also it's been my experience Zoas can lose their color until they're fully acclimated. Have some blues that turned olive drab and stayed that way for months before the blue returned.
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#24
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Since you replaced the DSB you will more than likely get a cycle. It is too late to try and explain zoanthid origin and aquarium light source vs color-as I have had WAY too much turkey pie tonight- and I don't want to derail your thread. I will PM you on the light issue. BOL of luck with the nano! Why did you mess with the DSB??? You should be OK though?? but you also killed a lot of bacteria in the LR/coral FW dipping
Do you have some fresh LR that you can put in there to cut down on the spike?? good luck PL
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"without deviation from the norm, progress is not possible" F-Zappa |
#25
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Quote:
Have a large piece of cured rock in the new tank, clean cured rubble in the aquaclear 300, and a large chunk of chaeto floating in the tank. I also scooped a bunch of worms and pods from the surface of the old sandbed to seed the new bed. After about 5 hours the tank water is clear.
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Less technology , more biology . |
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