Ultimate 20G Setup Journal - Pic Intense

DSparks · #1 01/29/2006, 08:35 PM

Hello! Welcome to the diary thread for my custom 20 gallon nano setup. I've been in the planning stages for over a year now. This has been a slow going project. My wife and I had our first child last April, so needless to say my priorities have changed quite a bit.

I apologize in advance for the poor picture quality. Many were taken in the garage at night after the baby was asleep. Feel free to ask for more pictures of anything that interests you. As time permits I'll try to pull together some better snapshots.

Before I get into the details I want to thank everyone here for all of their help and ideas over the last few years. I spend many lunch hours and late nights lurking through the boards. Most of the ideas incorporated into this setup have come from other members' ingenious designs. There is very little that I can personally take credit for.

My 10 gallon has been in operation for over 2 years. It's been a great tank to operate while learning more about the hobby. Based on experiences with this tank I had several goals in mind when designing the new setup:

First, I wanted a clean looking system. One of the things that drive me crazy with the 10 gallon is all of the wires and plumbing hanging out of the back. It really takes away from enjoying the tank when all those ugly wires and hoses catch my eye.

Second, I wanted better control over equipment. Climbing around on the floor cramped behind the tank to unplug a pump or turn off a timer is just plain silly.

Third, I didn't want the size of the 20 gallon tank to limit the size of the sump/fuge in the stand. The stand I built for my 10 gallon has a tiny footprint which really limited my options for external equipment.

Finally, I wanted easy access to all parts of the setup (plumbing, electrical, etc). I have to admit that I don't have the best history of tank maintenance. I'm lazy, so the easier I can make things the better off my tank will be.

DSparks · #2 01/29/2006, 08:36 PM

I kept all of these goals in mind when designing the stand. My tools are limited so I decided to use the project wood from Lowes. It comes in a variety of wood types and sizes. I went with laminated pine.

The stand's length and width is larger than the base of the tank to accommodate a larger sump/fuge, a storage area, and a panel of switches to control receptacles for equipment.

The switches will control 5 receptacles in the sump/fuge area and three receptacles on the back of the stand for lights and fans in the hood.

One heavy duty extension cord will be used to feed the power panel, which will in turn feed each of the receptacles. I had considered using the DJ power panels that others have used, but they were a little too wide for my liking. I also had quite a few switches and receptacles left over from finishing my basement, which made the decision easier.

DSparks · #3 01/29/2006, 08:36 PM

There was some some exterior oil based paint left over from a window painting project. This was perfect for painting the interior of the stand. The tank ened up with 6 coats of paint when all was said and done.

Notice the angled cut-out at the top of the storage area on the left. In the middle of building the stand I realized I was working myself into a pickle. Without notching out this area I wouldn't have been able to plumb a return up the left side of the tank.

DSparks · #4 01/29/2006, 08:37 PM

The tank will sit about five inches from the back of the stand. This will allow for an external overflow to drain down into the sump/fuge area. I'll also plumb the returns back up through this opening.

DSparks · #5 01/29/2006, 08:38 PM

I opted to go with an external overflow to maximize usable space within the tank. I missed taking some pictures while building the external overflow. Never fear, there are several good threads out that walk through the process step by step.

Here's how I drilled the holes. I'm installing two drains in case one gets clogged. Thanks to my wife for the play dough (kindergarten teacher).

Here I'm dry fitting the box.

Here's the overflow complete with the tank on the stand. You can see now why I needed to create the angled section on the right. It will allow me to snake plumbing up that side of the tank for a return.

I was able to get all the plumbing parts I needed at Lowes. Gone are the days of paying for overpriced bulkheads.

DSparks · #6 01/29/2006, 08:38 PM

I stained and polyurethaned the stand. Here's a picture from the front. I still need to install magnetic catches to hold the doors closed and child safety locks to keep little man out of it. I'll probably also inset the door hinges to get a cleaner fit.

These pictures show the back section (which hides the plumbing) and the hood, which is anchored to the back section.

I struggled over the best way to assemble the back to the stand and the hood to the back. I needed to be able to disassemble these pieces easily so that I can get at the plumbing for maintenance and repair. I finally settled on using threaded inserts and furniture screws (from the Lowes specialty hardware drawers). They work great!

For some reason the stain looks orange in this picture.

The hood attaches to the back also using the threaded inserts and furniture screws.

I decided on the "keep it simple" approach when building a mechanism to hold the hood open. An oak dowel rod and several shallow holes allow the hood to be held open in three different positions. I still need a clever way to store the dowel rod when the hood is closed (any ideas?).

DSparks · #7 01/29/2006, 08:39 PM

Lowes had everything I needed to build the Durso standpipes. The drains are one inch, which may be overkill for a 20 gallon.

To keep algae from growing in the overflow box I build a lid out of some of the leftover black acrylic.

DSparks · #8 01/29/2006, 08:40 PM

I was having trouble coming up with the best way to handle the wiring until my brother-n-law drew out a nice wiring diagram (Thanks Josh!). I picked up a heavy duty black extension cord and spliced it into 14 gauge wire. I then used the 14 gauge to wire everything together.

Notice the three receptacles that will control the lights and fans in the hood. I'm a little concerned about fitting both timers and 12 volt adapters into only these three receptacles.

I also used threaded inserts and furniture screws to attach the switch panel to the stand. This will make it easy to access the wiring in the event that something needs to be repaired or upgraded.

And here are the five receptacles that will power the return pump, skimmer, fuge light, heater, auto top off, and any other necessary equipment.

After some debate I installed task lighting. Since most of my time with the tank will be in the evening I figure that I'll be happy with the decision. I'm a little worried about how the lights will hold up in the high moisture content, but each light and fixture only run about six bucks so I can live with replacing them every now and them.

DSparks · #9 01/29/2006, 08:40 PM

And here's the sump/fuge in place. It fits perfectly [insert sigh of relief].

Because I was working with a near square footprint I had to get a little creative with the design of the sump. Along with RC, Melev's site has been an excellent resource for sump/fuge design. Honestly, I've never operated a sump or refugium, so I can't say how well what I've come up with will work. Feel free to chime in with comments or critique.

Here's a shot of the media tray. It'll be fed by the skimmer output

The skimmer section is a little tighter than what I had hoped for. I may have to forego the media tray to have enough room for the drains

DSparks · #10 01/29/2006, 08:41 PM

And finally, here's a couple full tank shots showing where I am to date.

DSparks · #11 01/29/2006, 08:41 PM

To Do List:

1. Decide on a pump. Any suggestions? I'll be plumbing the return through a SCWD. I'll also tee off of the return to feed the fuge (a.k.a. Melev style). I'm thinking maybe a Mag 5?

2. Decide on Lighting. I'm leaning towards a retrofit kit from Hello Lights. A 150W MH with 2x55W Actinic PC's. Anyone have experience with these (or other) retrofit kits?

3. I'm debating whether or not to DIY a thin Agrocrete wall to cover the back of the tank. I've see other's use the Great Stuff foam, but I'm not crazy about possible long term breakdown of the product.

4. Decide between a thin sand bed and a fake sand bed. I've seen threads where some have created an epoxied sandbed that has the natural look and allows for greater flow.

5. Decide on Cooling Fans. They MUST be quiet. The noise from the 10 gallon setup drives my wife nuts.

5. Build a matching chest style bench seat that will sit next to the tank and hold top off water and maybe a kalk reactor.

6. 30 other things that I'm not considering at this point in time (heater, fuge macro, ph monitor, etc, etc, etc).

I've made excellent progress in the past couple of months, but I'm still far from having it up and running. I really wanted to wait on posting anything until I was filling the tank with water, but I realized that I can really benefit from the collective critique here at RC. I'd love to hear your thoughts. Do you see anywhere that I'm going to get into trouble? What about lights or the return pump? Cut loose and let me know what you what you think!

Croman · #12 01/29/2006, 08:57 PM

That is one slick setup. Keep us posted.

louist · #13 01/29/2006, 09:07 PM

wow, this is awesome! You get the double thumbs up from me. The work light inside the cabinet will also double as lighting for your fuge.

Personally, I would install an acrylic sheet under the power plugs to guard against splashes from the sump. Just in case.

jeep4x4greg · #14 01/29/2006, 09:33 PM

beautiful! way to pay attention to detail!

yur giving me ideas for building the stand for my next/bigger tank

DSparks · #15 01/29/2006, 10:57 PM

Thanks for the kind words. Greg, you have to keep me in the loop when you start your next setup.

Louis, the acrylic guard is a great idea! I'm adding that to the setup for sure.

Keep those comments coming, and feel free to be constructive.

Kigs · #16 01/30/2006, 01:15 AM

sweet setup

shouldabenacowboy · #17 01/30/2006, 07:30 AM

Looks Great!!!

But you did all this work and there is no flowing water yet??....j/k

As mentioned before.....keep us posted !!!!!

SBC

mmd · #18 01/30/2006, 08:07 AM

very nice concept and excellent craftmanship

DSparks · #19 01/30/2006, 08:34 AM

Thanks guys! I'll be keeping the thread updated as I make progress.

Anyone have any advice related to my questions (pump and lights)?

Maxius · #20 01/30/2006, 11:33 AM

mag 7 for return pump, it would be perfect for a squid,

Genin · #21 01/30/2006, 12:40 PM

wow that is coming together super clean. great job!

DSparks · #22 01/30/2006, 01:11 PM

Wow, so a Mag 7 eh? Is that not overkill for a 20 gallon, even an SPS dominated one? Can the Mag Drives be throttled down with a ball valve without causing damage (in case it's too much pump)?

guntercb · #23 01/30/2006, 01:47 PM

Sparks,

Yes, you can throttle back the Mag 7 with a ball valve. The only issue would be that you use more electricity than you need. No real worries.

How did you cut the tank down for the overflow? Did you use a tile cutter bit? Thanks. Or can you post a thread link that you used for the idea?

Cheers,
Chris

DSparks · #24 01/30/2006, 04:02 PM

Thanks Chris. Looks like I'll go with the Mag 7. I'd rather over buy than end up with something underpowered.

To cut the glass I used a Rotozip Tile Cutter bit in my Dremel. Just keep the bit and glass cool by running water over them while cutting. I used a really small pump and airline tubing to keep a continuous stream pouring over the cutting area. It literally took about 5 minutes to make the cut. I was impressed with how well the Rotozip bit worked. One note of caution...the process is extremely loud. Wear earplugs if you have them.

guntercb · #25 01/30/2006, 04:16 PM

Sparks,

Thanks for the update on the Tile Cutter. If I do the same I will get my earplugs.

BTW, I don't think you will find the Mag 7 overpowered. If you do, I would first try splitting the flow into the tank and not throttling back, but if you feel you need to throttle back by all means use a ball valve.

Nice tank. Good luck.

Chris