Center Brace Removal/Replacement

[otto486]

Okay, here's my problem. I just got a steal on an Aqualight Pro MH fixture online. Its 36" and fits on my 50 gallon I'm beginning to get reef ready. There is a 2-3 inch thick center brace in the center of the tank. The brace is directly underneath the MH, which is probably a problem.

Now I do realize that the reflectors on the MH cast plenty of light to the sides of the tank, but the center is left shaded, only lit by the comp flo.

Also when the MH reaches is hottest period, the melting plastic brace begins to absolutely REEK.

If I cut the brace I risk the tank pulling apart. A 50 gallon (36"x19"x19") is short and fat enough to probably hold together. Also the frames are thick enough to hold it together. Even though the tank may never break, I don't want a bowed tank as my display.

If the MH is a foot or so above the tank, will the shadow be anything significant? I'm going to do a canyon type rock layout; so if light doesn't get into the center of the canyon, no big deal, b/c I won't put alot of coral in there. Does the brace still affect light throughout the tank?

Possible Solutions: (?) 1. Make 2 acrylic braces that reach over the tank frame. Then space them out across the tank so they don't get close enough to the MH to heat up, and don't interfere with it's light.

2. Make a wooden frame to reinforce the outside frame and integrate it into the canopy. This doesn't provide direct support across the tank to stop bowing, though it may help.

Any ideas/thoughts?

Also, how do you go about removing a center brace? I want to do it as clean and neat as possible.

[dow]

You might try a eurobrace type of setup. Here's a description of it: LINK

I think that would work fine on a 50 gallon tank. I wish I'd have re-done my 65 that way when I got it, but I didn't know about them then. Mine has a five or six inch w9ide glass brace in the middle. I hate that thang. Of course, I guess I could re-do it, but it'd be alittle bit spooky to do it with the water and fish in it, lol.

[otto486]

Thanks

Ok, I see, it reinforces the existing frame- What is made of? How does it attatch?

[dow]

The ones I've seen are made from glass and are siliconed in. The last one I looked at had a full length strip in the front and back that exactly fit inside the tank and was set flush with the top, and then a strip was put in front to back along each end the same way and siliconed down on the support strip and the front, back and side edges.

[meco65]

Get a peace of 1/4inch glass cut to fit across from front to back, about 5inch wide. Drop the water level in the tank so you can clean the area under the plastic brace silicone the glass to the front and back of the tank, let dry acording to the directions, than cut out the plastic brace.
Like this.
[IMG][/IMG]

[dow]

My tank has a center brace like that. It works, but it's a pain to keep clean and clear. Dust gathers on the top, and water splatters on the bottom, leaving dried salt deposits. It's a handy place to set stuff while you're working in the tank, though.

[Spuds725]

Originally posted by meco65
Get a peace of 1/4inch glass cut to fit across from front to back, about 5inch wide. Drop the water level in the tank so you can clean the area under the plastic brace silicone the glass to the front and back of the tank, let dry acording to the directions, than cut out the plastic brace.
Like this.

WHere were you 2 years ago?

I got nervous with my 135 G tank bowing, drained it down 1/2 way, replaced the rim, and refilled it... the previous owner of the tank had cut out both braces so he could use 2 MH lights rather then 3.

Very slick job on that-- any issues with salt creep?? Obviously it doesn't block the light as much as as a cross brace.

[Harold Edwards]

My 75g tank. replaced the brace with 1/2" nylon rod.
I replaced my central brace on my 46g with acrylic and I had to clean it two times a week. I never have to clean the nylon rod.

[flyyyguy]

you can very easily simpl;y cut out t he existing brace leaving a couple of inches of it intact on both sides. then get some wweldon and replace it with a piece of clear acrylic.

it doesnt have to be any wider than the rod pictured above this post as long as you use weld on #40 or whatever to make a good bond

[jman77]

How do u know weldon will bond acylic to that trim plastic?

[flyyyguy]

weld on #40 surely will. Ive done it. weld on #16 probably would suffice wanna know the truth........but if you want to be sure use weld on #40.

[jman77]

will it bond Lexan to that trim as well ?

[otto486]

Why would you use polycarbonate?

It should- In my expierience Weld-on #16 works great on Poly

Also I'm considering leaving the brace in place. The MH will be elevated high enough above the brace that the shadow will be mininmized. Also since I'm using a Canyon-type rock layout, only different softies will be growing in the actual canyon and on it's walls.

Thanks for the help and advice!

[speedsport]

Originally posted by Harold Edwards
My 75g tank. replaced the brace with 1/2" nylon rod.
I replaced my central brace on my 46g with acrylic and I had to clean it two times a week. I never have to clean the nylon rod.

Where did yo get the nylon rod and how did you attach it?

[Harold Edwards]

Originally posted by speedsport
Where did yo get the nylon rod and how did you attach it?

you can get it at us plastic or mc master sometimes on ebay. to attach it just drill the holes on each side and attach is with nylon bolts and nuts. you can get them a lowes or home depot.

[mdt178]

For my 30x18x24 tank, I cut out the existing brace, leaving about 1" and attached 1/4" strip of clear acrylic using nylon nuts & bolts. I had my MH 6" away from that piece and no problem for 2 years.