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  #76  
Old 10/12/2007, 03:04 PM
RedEDGE2k1 RedEDGE2k1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by RumLad
Is the front edge of the tank sitting over that 2x6?
I thought it was seated behind the front edge by a few inches, thereby spreading the load over the entire plywood topsheet and down through the sides, back and front. Either way, it should be sturdy enough.
The front of the tank sits directly above the 2x6 header, as see in this section cut:

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90g reef/29g sump, DIY cabinet, 2x250w MH, 2x54w T5 actinics, ER RS135 skimmer, VorTech pump, 18w UV sterilizer
  #77  
Old 10/12/2007, 03:09 PM
RedEDGE2k1 RedEDGE2k1 is offline
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As does the back:

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  #78  
Old 10/12/2007, 03:11 PM
RedEDGE2k1 RedEDGE2k1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kreeger1
Oak is not the funnest wood to paint, seems like no matter how many coats you still see graining.
I'm going to skim-coat every plywood panel with Elmer's wood filler before sanding. Then of couse sand, prime, sand, prime, and sand again before the first coat of paint. Hopefully that will take care of the oak grain.
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90g reef/29g sump, DIY cabinet, 2x250w MH, 2x54w T5 actinics, ER RS135 skimmer, VorTech pump, 18w UV sterilizer
  #79  
Old 10/12/2007, 03:18 PM
cannarella cannarella is offline
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The back is close enough to the plywood from the sketch up drawing that I could see. I would have liked to see it directly over the plywood instead of relying on the fasteners to hold it up. What is the possibility of gluing a ledger under those front to back 2x4s for a little extra support?
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If my phaser discharges off by as little as .06 terra watts, it would cause a cascading exothermal inversion.
  #80  
Old 10/12/2007, 03:22 PM
RumLad RumLad is offline
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I thought there was a little more of a front lip involved. The photos on page two seemed to show it in a different perspective perhaps.
Have you placed the empty tank into position yet to verify the fit?
As for the paint, I have had decent results with enamel paint over grainy woods like the oak you are using.
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  #81  
Old 10/12/2007, 03:26 PM
RumLad RumLad is offline
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I don't recall seeing the 2x4 stiffeners in the actual build photos, only in the sketch-up. I believe it is strictly plywood over the front 2x6 with 2x4 legs and plywood sides and back.
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  #82  
Old 10/12/2007, 03:29 PM
RedEDGE2k1 RedEDGE2k1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by RumLad
I thought there was a little more of a front lip involved. The photos on page two seemed to show it in a different perspective perhaps.
Have you placed the empty tank into position yet to verify the fit?
As for the paint, I have had decent results with enamel paint over grainy woods like the oak you are using.
The Sketchup model has changed almost daily since my initial posts, showing the step-by-step Sketchup build. I ditched the 2x4 front-to-back supports, as they would have simply been a waste of wood and money.


Quote:
Originally posted by cannarella
I just noticed that also. I would have liked to see more supports on the sides. Is the back resting on the back piece of plywood? Getting the corners well supported is the key.
I designed the stand to hold waaaaay more than a 90g tank, and that was before I went back and glued everything with Titebond like you mentioned. With the glue as well as the 2x6/2x4 members, I'm willing to bet I could park my truck in the tank's spot.

Seriously though...sometimes it's neccessary to step back and look at the big picture. A 90g tank, when fully loaded, will weigh ~1000lbs. It sounds like a lot of weight, and it is, but not when you consider the strength of plywood.

Go to your LFS and open up one of the mass-produced stands for a 180 gallon tank (or larger). They're all made of 3/4" plywood, with no additional support from 2x members. They all work just fine, and will not fail.

It's kind of funny (not trying to sound insulting) to browse the DIY forums and look at pictures of all the people building stands for 55g tanks using 3/4" ply and pressure treated 4x4s.

I understand the safety factor of 2x or 3x.....but come on folks, 10x and 20x is just wasting money

Quote:
Originally posted by cannarella
The back is close enough to the plywood from the sketch up drawing that I could see. I would have liked to see it directly over the plywood instead of relying on the fasteners to hold it up.
It sits directly over the back plywood panel. Up front, it sits directly over the front 2x6 header.
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Last edited by RedEDGE2k1; 10/12/2007 at 03:34 PM.
  #83  
Old 10/12/2007, 03:32 PM
RumLad RumLad is offline
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Hey Red, it's your living room, not ours
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  #84  
Old 10/12/2007, 03:36 PM
RedEDGE2k1 RedEDGE2k1 is offline
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I didn't mean to sound like a smart aleck.....just making the point that if anyone at home builds a stand for a 180g tank the same way All Glass builds their stands, people would be running for the hills and screaming its going to fail.
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  #85  
Old 10/12/2007, 03:45 PM
cannarella cannarella is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by RedEDGE2k1
The Sketchup model has changed almost daily since my initial posts, showing the step-by-step Sketchup build. I ditched the 2x4 front-to-back supports, as they would have simply been a waste of wood and money.




I designed the stand to hold waaaaay more than a 90g tank, and that was before I went back and glued everything with Titebond like you mentioned. With the glue as well as the 2x6/2x4 members, I'm willing to bet I could park my truck in the tank's spot.

Seriously though...sometimes it's neccessary to step back and look at the big picture. A 90g tank, when fully loaded, will weigh ~1000lbs. It sounds like a lot of weight, and it is, but not when you consider the strength of plywood.

Go to your LFS and open up one of the mass-produced stands for a 180 gallon tank (or larger). They're all made of 3/4" plywood, with no additional support from 2x members. They all work just fine, and will not fail.

It's kind of funny (not trying to sound insulting) to browse the DIY forums and look at pictures of all the people building stands for 55g tanks using 3/4" ply and pressure treated 4x4s.

I understand the safety factor of 2x or 3x.....but come on folks, 10x and 20x is just wasting money



It sits directly over the back plywood panel. Up front, it sits directly over the front 2x6 header.
Yea I know I am one that advocates not using 2x materials or 4x4s... My whole stand is plywood. I saved your drawing and was looking at it in sketchup and saw this.
That is what had me concerned. You will see people harp on not putting a load on the fasteners. Always have support below. You may have changed your design since that file you uploaded. If so you are golden. Don't get me wrong, I love your design.

Is it going to be on a slab or 2nd floor?

Andy
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If my phaser discharges off by as little as .06 terra watts, it would cause a cascading exothermal inversion.
  #86  
Old 10/12/2007, 03:49 PM
RumLad RumLad is offline
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MDF boards, a few pastic thing-a-ma-jig fasteners, some vinyl wood grain and of course, the almighty magnetic door catch. What's not to love about that?
I'm sure you will enjoy many years of faithful service from this tank/stand combo. Keep us posted with pics when it's all said and done.
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  #87  
Old 10/12/2007, 03:52 PM
cannarella cannarella is offline
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NOOOOOOOO MDF.
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If my phaser discharges off by as little as .06 terra watts, it would cause a cascading exothermal inversion.
  #88  
Old 10/12/2007, 04:39 PM
Kreeger1 Kreeger1 is offline
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RedEDGE2k1 I'm with you on that so many stand builds are way over done on here. Its not how much wood you use, it's hot you use it.
Erik
  #89  
Old 10/12/2007, 05:43 PM
FUA FUA is offline
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wow, that stand looks like a real eye-catcher.
  #90  
Old 10/12/2007, 07:42 PM
RedEDGE2k1 RedEDGE2k1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by cannarella
You may have changed your design since that file you uploaded. If so you are golden.

Is it going to be on a slab or 2nd floor?

Andy
Correct...I've probably changed the sketchup model 20 times since I uploaded that version to RC. Since the original model, I have reduced the width of the cabinet from 22" to 19", placing the rear of the tank directly over the back plywood panel, give or tank 1/8". I made this change when I realized I'll have no need for space behind the tank.

The cabinet will be on our 2nd floor, but I got lucky in the fact that the cabinet will back up to a firewall in our townhome, as well as sit perpendicular to the 2nd floor joists.
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90g reef/29g sump, DIY cabinet, 2x250w MH, 2x54w T5 actinics, ER RS135 skimmer, VorTech pump, 18w UV sterilizer
  #91  
Old 10/12/2007, 07:44 PM
RedEDGE2k1 RedEDGE2k1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kreeger1
It's not how much wood you use, it's how you use it.
Erik
That's what she said.

Not funny? Cool.

-Dustin
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90g reef/29g sump, DIY cabinet, 2x250w MH, 2x54w T5 actinics, ER RS135 skimmer, VorTech pump, 18w UV sterilizer
  #92  
Old 10/12/2007, 07:50 PM
cannarella cannarella is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by RedEDGE2k1
Correct...I've probably changed the sketchup model 20 times since I uploaded that version to RC. Since the original model, I have reduced the width of the cabinet from 22" to 19", placing the rear of the tank directly over the back plywood panel, give or tank 1/8". I made this change when I realized I'll have no need for space behind the tank.

The cabinet will be on our 2nd floor, but I got lucky in the fact that the cabinet will back up to a firewall in our townhome, as well as sit perpendicular to the 2nd floor joists.
You are totally fine then. Unfortunately mine sits parallel on a joist...
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If my phaser discharges off by as little as .06 terra watts, it would cause a cascading exothermal inversion.
  #93  
Old 10/12/2007, 08:59 PM
Kreeger1 Kreeger1 is offline
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Not the size of the boat....
  #94  
Old 10/13/2007, 12:44 PM
RedEDGE2k1 RedEDGE2k1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by cannarella
You are totally fine then. Unfortunately mine sits parallel on a joist...
Ehh...not a big deal, especially considering your tank size. Even with a much larger tank, the joists are not going to fail (of course, everything has a limit. I'm not referring to 500g tanks ). Bow, yes, but not fail. Think about all the 600lb morbidly obese people walking around (oxymoron?) their homes placing all that weight on one foot, 4"x10" area, between floor joists, over and over again, all day long. When was the last time anyone heard of a person falling through their floor?

Back to the build....I'm working as we speak (taking a break!), completing the top section. I went to Lowe's today and dropped $70 on a DeWalt orbital sander, and it's proving itself worthy of every penny. The old fashioned sanding block, for the 20 minutes I used it, sucked. I also bought the crown moulding -- I got lucky and Lowe's had the exact same style of crown that my house has, in a smaller size. One more aspect of the tank blending in with my home!

Pics to come.
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  #95  
Old 10/13/2007, 03:58 PM
RedEDGE2k1 RedEDGE2k1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by RedEDGE2k1
.... their homes placing all that weight on one foot, 4"x10" area, between floor joists, over and over again, all day long. When was the last time anyone heard of a person falling through their floor?
I mean to say their bodies, not their homes
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  #96  
Old 10/16/2007, 08:22 AM
RedEDGE2k1 RedEDGE2k1 is offline
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I wasn't as productive this weekend as I planned, as it is now Tuesday and the cabinet still isn't finished. However I'm very close....all that's left is hinging the access panel, access panel trim, and crown moulding. I bought two different sets of hinges for the access panel; the Rockler set recommended by cannarella as well as a euro set from Lowe's. Hopefully one of them will work the way I need them to -- I'll keep you posted.

I took cannarella's advice and glued a 2x2 support into the front panel/side panel joint for added stiffness. I then packed the outside of the miter joint with wood filler. Hopefully this 2x2 will prevent the wood filler/paint from cracking when the top section is removed from the tank/bottom section.



I trimed the tank base panel with 1x2 poplar from Home Depot. I screwed this trim into place, as well as glued it, because when I get help moving the cabinet I know this will be the piece everyone grabs and pulls. I don't want it coming loose.





All wood puttied up and ready to sand.

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  #97  
Old 10/16/2007, 08:29 AM
RedEDGE2k1 RedEDGE2k1 is offline
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I couldn't resist putting the 90g tank in the cabinet to see how it would look. The measurements were dead-on, thankfully.



The back of the tank, sitting directly above the rear plywood panel.



Space for the Vortech pump.



Originally I planned on sanding the wood putty with a sanding block, in hopes of avoiding the cost of a quality power sander. I used the sanding block for about 3 minutes before picking up my keys and driving to Home Depot. I dropped $70 on DeWalt's mid-level sander, and it was worth every penny.



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  #98  
Old 10/16/2007, 08:38 AM
RedEDGE2k1 RedEDGE2k1 is offline
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While the tank was in the cabinet, I measured and marked the height of the metal halide mogul base, positioned so the bulb itself is 12" above the water level.



I installed a panel to attach the halides & T5s to. This also helped stiffen up the sides of the entire top section.



The center sagged a bit, so I added a stiffener.



I know it looks goofy, but keep in mind the light panel will be hidden by the access panel door, and will not conflict the opening/closing of the door.

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  #99  
Old 10/16/2007, 09:54 AM
cannarella cannarella is offline
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Looks good. I posted up a build thread for my tank. Check it out.
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...7#post10979677
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If my phaser discharges off by as little as .06 terra watts, it would cause a cascading exothermal inversion.
  #100  
Old 10/16/2007, 09:58 AM
RedEDGE2k1 RedEDGE2k1 is offline
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More pictures are coming...just got busy at work this morning. Go figure.
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