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#1
06/30/2006, 06:45 PM
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fridmany pair
like forming a pair of p.fridmany?.
as they are the sexual differences of orchid?these are more easy to raise that others pseudocromis? thanks |
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#2
07/05/2006, 09:33 AM
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Coloca 2 juveniles en un tanque y obtendras una pareja en unas semanas, mientras mas parejas hagas mejor el resultado.No hay domorfismo sexual, son los mas dificiles de criar en la familia de pseudocromidos.
Edgar |
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#4
07/05/2006, 01:13 PM
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Well our friend from Spain did not get any replies since 7/01, I supposed nobody cared and used it as a PM.
Place 2 juveniles in a tank and you will get a pair in weeks, the mor eyou make the better the chances, there is no sexual dimorphims and this specie is the most difficult to raise of the ones TR. Ed |
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#5
07/05/2006, 03:42 PM
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Many thanks Ed
¿wow the most dificult? I only read articles about this psud. specie and I beliebe that by more easy. Then pseudocromis porpireus is better to raise? |
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#6
07/05/2006, 04:42 PM
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one pick of my mini breeder sistem.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/...5peque_ita.jpg |
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#9
07/06/2006, 10:24 AM
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Hola Manuel and Anderson
P. splendens, I have not worked with it, I know people who raised them before, the problem is that brood stock is very aggresive and getting them to spawn is hard. I say fridmani is the most difficult to raise of the ones currently tank raised, porphyreus has never been done in comercial scale, I raised a few but the numbers were low, about 20-40 from a spawn compared to about 300-500 for fridmani or aldabraensis. From my experience this is how difficult I find them: porphyreus paccagnellae fridmani springeri flavivertex aldabraensis olivaceous porphyreus being the most difficult and olivaceaus "easier than falling off a log..." Ed |
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#11
07/07/2006, 09:39 AM
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Ediaz
Fantastic! You can raise 300-500 fridmani from a spawn. I have been trying to raise fridmani for almost half a year. Yet I could only raise them less than 100 from a spawn. There is only a negligible loss from hatching through the second week. I have, however, big loss during the third week. Mr. Moe's book said to give wild plankton but I cannot. Does this be a cause of my big loss or are there any causes for the loss during the third week? Bandeng |
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#12
07/07/2006, 10:02 AM
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Well that is what you get at a hatchery with 300 gal. larval tanks.
At home I am getting 150-200 from a spawn but I am using 10-30 gal. tanks. Yeah that is the way it is from day 14 to 25 you should experience massive deaths, reason 1, bacterial infections reason 2, poor nutrition reason 3, light cycles I think plankton will be beneficial, mostly copepods, during the rotifer/artemia transition, but is not really necesary. Ed |
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#13
07/07/2006, 07:55 PM
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Hi Ediaz,
300g larval tank / hatch ? Wow, it´s a lot of space ! I can see a point when talking about keeping water quality and so protection from infections. Is it the "why" in such large tanks ? Poor nutrition can still be a problem as concentration can be harder to mantain in the large ones and ligth cycles seems the same issue in small and large tanks. Regarding bacterial infections do you add methylen blue or antibiotics to your larval tanks ? Thanks a lot for answering !  Anderson.
__________________
"Posso não saber de nada mas suspeito de muita coisa..." |
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#14
07/09/2006, 04:50 PM
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#15
07/09/2006, 04:56 PM
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#16
07/09/2006, 05:03 PM
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#17
07/09/2006, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
I smell plagerism here...  Where oh where is MM when you need him?
__________________
These are my rotifers. Without my rotifers I am nothing. Without me my rotifers are nothing. |
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#18
07/10/2006, 09:10 AM
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"easier than falling off a log" is a quote directly from Bill Addison. I haven't reared olivaceaus myself, but fridmani is not difficult if you have the proper nutrition and guard against disease and parasites.
M
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MMoe |
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#19
07/10/2006, 09:33 AM
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Well my friend David, I heard that with my own ears a lot of times in different situations from my former boss.
Big larval tanks get better yields for any specie but only if you have the space and "free"water. The problem with nutrition is that when feeding artemia it must be enriched and fed only what is consumed in a few hours, in other words, the larvae must be all full and there should be no artemia in the water by the time the next feeding comes. Failure to do that will results in low yields. I use antibiotics for a few days before meatamorphosis. Ed |
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#20
07/10/2006, 06:23 PM
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OK ,I place a pair of young (fridmani). can they share in a raise aquarium (20G) with a pair of percula, like gobiosona oceanophops? or may be alone(the pair)?
M F Last edited by manuel ferrer; 07/10/2006 at 06:47 PM. |
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#22
09/13/2006, 01:58 PM
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I have problems friends.
I had received the fridmani (six) from EEUU (dificult and expensive). I place them each two in the ac.(habited by ocellaris pairs), the fisth week all ready but now !!inferno!! the ocellaris are very agressive with them (all). now they are injured (one died). now I have space problems (six pairs ,five aquariums). Any opinion?What can I do? |
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#24
09/13/2006, 02:16 PM
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but then they have little liters!!.now I have guets to dinner,see you later.
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#25
09/13/2006, 05:00 PM
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i have fridmani pairs in 2ft (60cm) tanks and they are fine, i would also surgest you divide the tanks, they look almost big neough to me.
Christian |
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