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#1
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PFO Dual Ballast Prolem
I know it's Christmas day. . .
I have noticed that the light color output on the right side of the tank is much yellower than the left side. I switched the bulbs and it seems to be even yellower. I have not been able to switch the connections to the ballast (hard to get to). I'm running XM 250W mogul base 10K bulbs which are know for being bright white. Does this sound like a ballast problem? Dave-
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Now that the kids are married and out of the house we decided to adopt a mini-reef. Kids are cheaper! |
#2
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u can test w/ par meter......also check to make sure the nipple on the filament is above the horizontal plane of the MH bulb....if not will drop kelvin producing more yellow...
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I was Born a Fish... |
#3
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how long have you been running the bulbs? they need a burn in time as they will start off a yellowish color till burnt in.
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Sam |
#4
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I run mine on a PFO dual 250 watt HQI ballast, both bright white. You'll definitely want to check the nip placement, I've noticed a pretty big difference in color.
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2001 black T/A WS6~M6 ASC#6979 331rwhp/348rwtq Mods: !CAGS, Pro 5.0, TSP lid, BGRA, Raptor shift light, Strange 4.10 gears, GMMG exhaust |
#5
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First you want to check the nipple position of the arc tube (inner bulb) on the lamps. On both lamps you should have the nipple pointed up and in the same direction. When standard quartz metal halide lamps are operated horizontally it is recommended to try to position the nipple in the same direction to assure a more uniform color and light output from multiple lamps.
Changing the lamps around will require some time for the lamps to adjust and stabilize. Generally requires a small burn in period. The best test for your set up is to try swapping ballast outputs. If this is a dual standard PFO magnetic ballast and the problem follows one ballast output this usually indicates that one of the capacitors within the ballast enclosure is operating out of spec. If the ballast is under warranty you want to contact PFO Lighting. If the ballast is a standard PFO magnetic ballast (this does not apply to the HQI model) and is out of warrant you can open the ballast case/enclosure and swap the capacitors around to make sure the problem is the capacitor. If the problem follows the capacitor the capacitor needs replacement. If the ballast is old (2+ years) you should replace both capacitors to assure both ballasts will be operating identically as possible. |
#6
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The lights have been burning for about 80 hours and we have noticed a considerable darkening of the yellow.
I have them connected to an RK2 with 4 Hydro 4's, 3 Coralife fans, 3 1watt Led moonlights. I am planning in switching the ballast inputs as suggested and plugging directly into a wall socket. I will check the nipple position. Thanks for the help!
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Now that the kids are married and out of the house we decided to adopt a mini-reef. Kids are cheaper! |
#7
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I did everything except removing and switching the caps. It funny, I switched the cables on the ballast inputs and the left side is still yellow. ????????????
BTW, everything is less than a month old and has only been in operatin for about 80+ hours. Thanks again for the help!
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Now that the kids are married and out of the house we decided to adopt a mini-reef. Kids are cheaper! |
#8
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XM10K lamps are to most of us yellow/white. If you have either dirty water or lots of micro algea in your water the lamps will look even more yellow.
you have a new dual PFO so chances are its not the caps. XM lamps are yellowish. probaly not a lamps for you [I hate them] |
#9
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I have 2 of them and the one on the right is as white as can be!
The left sod looks like and incedsant yellow, kinda like some peed in the pool.
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Now that the kids are married and out of the house we decided to adopt a mini-reef. Kids are cheaper! |
#10
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I took the ballast of the RK2 and plugged it directly into the wall. 30 minutes later the bulb went place. Replaced it with bulb from the right side and it glows yellow. the light inputs were switch the night before and bulb was bright white. I will be pulling the base off and double checking the wiring. I'll post results.
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Now that the kids are married and out of the house we decided to adopt a mini-reef. Kids are cheaper! |
#11
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Paul, why can't you switch out the hqi caps?
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#12
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dp:
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#13
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First time I've ever been called Paul
The unit is just over a month old. I going to check the wiring in the base that's giving me the problem. If all checks out I will be Calling PFO! I'll postt my results.
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Now that the kids are married and out of the house we decided to adopt a mini-reef. Kids are cheaper! |
#14
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dapettit, you should check all connections, the lamp base and socket. Make sure everything is clean and making good contact. With a standard PFO ballast only you could test the output voltage at the sockets and see if it is off and by how much.
mr. pluto, you can swap the caps on a PFO HQI ballast (well actually this only applies to all of the 250 HQI and some of the 150 HQI models) but no reason to do it. In the PFO HQI ballast the cap is only used for power factor correction. The cap has nothing to do with the way the ballast operates the lamp. You can even remove the cap and the ballast will operate the lamp the same. |
#15
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After all the troubleshooting it looks like its the mogul base. It's either crosswired or just plain bad. How do I know your ask? I removed the bases from both reflectors and put the know good on the side I was having problems. Screwed in the bulb, connected the cable to the suspect input on the ballast, powered the ballast on and presto changeo we have white light. Since my eyes are really bad I'll check the suspect base in the morning.
Thanks for all the input. I'll keep everyone posted. . .
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Now that the kids are married and out of the house we decided to adopt a mini-reef. Kids are cheaper! |
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