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  #1  
Old 12/16/2007, 07:31 PM
Goby26 Goby26 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 5
I am a beginner, please check out my plans

After seeing many beautful SW settups, I have decided to experiment w/my empty 6 Gallon QT tank(Not needed, my FW tanks are established)

Here are some plans and basic info about the tank:
Dimensions: 16 inches long, 10.5 inches tall, and 8 inches wide
Lighting: Only 1 WPG, not upgrading lighting because I may upgrade tank
Filtration: AC 20, and natural filtration, don't want a protein skimmer because I may upgrade
Stock:
1 Smaller species of Goby(Clown, Neon, etc)
1-2 Cleaner Shrimp OR 3 Sexy Shrimp
1 Mithrax Crab
4-6 Turbo Snails
3-5 Hermit Crabs

What is a good brand for powerheads and hydrometers? How often should I do water changes? What kind of Goby(If any) can I get? Invert numbers good? Can I use FW chemistry tests for SW?

All help is greatly appreciated.
  #2  
Old 12/16/2007, 07:35 PM
stuccodude stuccodude is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: sanger
Posts: 415
its far easier with a bigger tank, good luck
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  #3  
Old 12/16/2007, 07:48 PM
heyfredyourhat heyfredyourhat is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 395
Definately go bigger. Read the newbie thread that is stickied on the top.

I have been researching for 18 months, and i have finally gotten to put rock and sand in my tank last nite.

Patience, money, and trial and error are a few things i have learned so far.
  #4  
Old 12/16/2007, 08:28 PM
draleigh draleigh is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 273
you don't NEED to go bigger, but the bigger you go the easier for stablity. I wouldn't worry about the inverts yet, you have to cycle first. Before you start looking at fish and cleaning crew start looking for your live rocks live sand. Do a fish a favor and cycle with a piece of uncook shrimp (it works fine, that is how i cycled my big tank)
  #5  
Old 12/16/2007, 08:36 PM
kittyj kittyj is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 223
IMO, 6 gallons is too small. It will be really hard to keep your water parameters stable
  #6  
Old 12/16/2007, 08:38 PM
Goby26 Goby26 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 5
I read the article, learned a few things about SW water chemistry.

My plans for live rock and sand are to get Aragonite sand, and live cured rock from my lfs. I read that the "live" parts of the rock will move into the sand, saving me some money so I don't have to buy live sand. Speaking of sand, how deep should the bed be?

For the AC filter, what media should I keep in? I am thinking about getting an AC 20 Powerhead, any opinions on that product?
  #7  
Old 12/16/2007, 10:00 PM
BangkokMatt BangkokMatt is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Bangkok, Thailand
Posts: 1,072
Here is a link to Melevs 2g tank and Louist's 8g TOTM

http://www.melevsreef.com/pico.html
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-04/totm/index.php

Their set ups may help.
I have to agree that keeping params stable in a 6g tank will be very difficult particularly if its your first experience with S/W
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  #8  
Old 12/17/2007, 03:39 PM
BarkingCrab BarkingCrab is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: South of Boston, MA
Posts: 96
I started with a 7g minibow and ultimately ended up with a 75g, so I agree that keeping parameters stable in a smaller tank is going to be harder. It can be done, but requires attention.

I'd skip the hydrometer and invest in a refractometer. You'll get much better readings and it's a tool you should use a fair amount, especially with a smaller tank. FWIW, I've used both and can tell you the refractometer was one of the best purchases I made.
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  #9  
Old 12/17/2007, 04:29 PM
Goby26 Goby26 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 5
Since this is my first SW tank, is it really THAT diffucult to keep things stable? What things in particular?(Saltinity, SG, PH< Ammonia, Nitrate...)

It would be a good idea to invest in a refractometer, considering I will be able to use this if I upgrade. Any brand in particular you recomend?

Is it true that if you put Aragonite sand w/live rock, the sand will become "live" overtime? Do I add the live rock and sand before or after I put the water in? How deep of a sand bed should I get?
  #10  
Old 12/17/2007, 08:04 PM
Goby26 Goby26 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 5
^Bump^

Wow this is an active thread
  #11  
Old 12/17/2007, 08:20 PM
Deb91 Deb91 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Scituate,Ma.
Posts: 303
Hello, I don't think you are getting to much help on this IMO because you are going with such a small tank! I have never seen a tank that small,and to be honest I don't think you should waste your money on it! I hope you don't think I'm a jerk but it reminds me of a betta in a small little bowl with no place to swim.To me that is horrible.
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  #12  
Old 12/17/2007, 08:25 PM
richofoz richofoz is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Melbourne Aus.
Posts: 164
Yes the living things in your rock will eventually move in to the sand bed and make it "Live". You can also get a handful of sand from different established tanks and add this to your sand as well. This will help to give a greater variety of micro fauna.

As far as test kits go, some API kits work in both FW and SW BUT need different color charts. (I think these are available online) I know some salifert kits also work in both and only use one color chart.

I keep mantis shrimp in 6g tanks and have to say they can be time consuming to keep perfect. Evaporation is pretty bad on small tanks which means it's hard to keep th S.G constant.
I top up each by hand twice a day, which is fine till I need to go on holiday or something...
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  #13  
Old 12/17/2007, 09:16 PM
Goby26 Goby26 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 5
Deb91, I don't think you are a jerk . I was looking around nanoreef.com, many people there obviously have tanks this size and smaller.

I really appreciate all the advice, I have learned a lot. I think I will hold off on SW until I can get my hands on a larger tank.
 


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