Tunze nano mod - Page 8

jacmyoung · #**176** 03/04/2007, 01:26 AM

Both my 6025s are dead silent. Some thing is up with yours.

mr pink floyd · #**177** 03/04/2007, 01:37 AM

yea, i know some are silent, some are loud. Maybe once i get a job and a steady income ill buy another and see if it will eb silent, if it isnt ill send it to roger to make it silent, then mod it haha

jacmyoung · #**178** 03/04/2007, 02:00 AM

Ask Roger if he can send you a replacement first then you can send yours back.

proboscis · #**179** 03/04/2007, 02:18 AM

i have 2 uncut 6025's and hope my fish dont get to upset b/c i already have 2 6100's and a multi-controller in my 3 ft 24 inch deep 70 g oceanic will mod on Sunday for a little project with the dremmel

Krazy · #**180** 03/04/2007, 11:03 AM

if ones just does the standard mod where yo dremel the inside out of that housing piece, does this void the tunze warranty ???

jacmyoung · #**181** 03/04/2007, 11:08 AM

Only the front housing which is a $10 spare part you can order from Tunze.

I don't think this mod would compromise the longevity of the pump at all, well not yet

GSMguy · #**182** 03/04/2007, 11:51 AM

i am still waiting on my 6055 wonder what a mod on that will do

jpndave · #**183** 03/04/2007, 11:59 AM

jacmyoung, I can't seem to get your photos to pull up. Any suggestions?

kappaknight · #**184** 03/04/2007, 12:54 PM

Here are some photos on my blog if you're interested: http://reefinabox.blogspot.com/

jacmyoung · #**185** 03/04/2007, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jpndave
jacmyoung, I can't seem to get your photos to pull up. Any suggestions?

You should by clicking on the links. I am going to call ATT/Yahoo to find out how to park my jpg files so they can be posted directly in the post.

I am also going to check out at the Homd Depot to get more gears so I can make the slits look professional on my other 6025.

dhnguyen, I know you can give me some pointers on that you little nose picking brat

And thinking out loud on how to install a stop tab too.

xtm · #**186** 03/04/2007, 01:50 PM

very interesting thread.. I wonder if there's a mod for the regular Tunze Turbelles (the 6060's and 6080's)

atvdave · #**187** 03/04/2007, 03:34 PM

Ok... I went ahead and tried the MOD on the 6045's

I have 2 6045's so I only mod-ed one to do a side by side comparison.

I stuck my hand in front of the to to compare. You can definitely tell a big difference between the two. The mod-ed 6045 has much more flow than the non-mod-ed 6045. The only thing I found a bit weird, was that it felt like 2 streams coming out of the hole, but with much more force & flow.

jacmyoung · #**188** 03/04/2007, 04:17 PM

You did more than a standard mod. It might just be that the flow is bigger that gave you a different sensation.

Could you find out if your 6045 has a stop tab somewhere and take a picture? I am interested to see how that is used since the 6025 has no such item.

atvdave · #**189** 03/04/2007, 04:53 PM

I don't see any kind of stop tab. The ant-rotation must be electronic and in the motor block.

However I did find this out. DO NOT CUT the cross section on the out let hole off. Now sometimes when I start the nano the shaft shoots out of the motor and falls to the bottom of the tank. SO... the cross section keeps the impeller in the motor if it starts the wrong way.

I'll try to fit the protective grating over the hole to see if it will keep the impeller in the housing.

My bad...

Also the flow seems a bit wider, and doesn't seem to have as long as a flow (stream) as the un-mod-ed one.

jacmyoung · #**190** 03/04/2007, 05:32 PM

Yes I have said earlier if you want to continue to use the self-stop function, do not cut the front nozzle, but 6045 has a different stopping item, it must be visible somewhere, if not on the front cover, it must be on the prop unit or in the hole. Roger at Tunze said the stopping item is visible. However since your prop shot out, it is possible you have cut out that stopper too. The stopper (not the cross bar) is supposed to stop the prop from rotating backwards, therefore the prop should not shoot out.

The fish net cap should stop the prop from shooting out, hope you left some room to put the cap on.

BTW, if the above picture is the inside of the normal 6045 front housing, the pipe inside is indeed much shorter than that of 6025.

And of course the flow is wider since you cut out the front nozzle (I call this "wide flow mod"). The increased flow may not be enough to compensate for the loss of reach.

If my past theory is correct, the flow increase for the 6045 is from 930 to 1200gph, compared to the 6025 from 705 to 1200gph. That could be why after the wide flow mod on a 6025, I still see the same flow reach because the flow has increased by 495gph, whereas the flow increase on a 6045 is 270gph.

jacmyoung · #**191** 03/05/2007, 12:56 AM

For anyone having trouble with my prior photos, I finally decided to ditch the ATT/Yahoo photo album crap and fall back on RC photo gallery to post them:

The Standard Mod:

The Wide Flow Mod:

The Full Blast Mod:

All three mods assembled:

Again be careful with the wide flow mod, if you do that the pump will not be able to self-correct at the startup.

skydancer · #**192** 03/05/2007, 09:58 AM

Thanks Jacmyoung, great pictures!!!

joeychitwood · #**193** 03/05/2007, 10:27 AM

Very detailed photos and nice Dremel work!

jacmyoung · #**194** 03/05/2007, 12:57 PM

Thank you, I am still trying to find a way to make better cuts for the full blast mod. It'd be nice to make them as neat as possible as the manufactured slits on the ball.

markandkristen · #**195** 03/05/2007, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jacmyoung
Thank you, I am still trying to find a way to make better cuts for the full blast mod. It'd be nice to make them as neat as possible as the manufactured slits on the ball.

a little bit of coraline alage out to make that dissappear LOL

GSMguy · #**196** 03/05/2007, 02:09 PM

use the dremmel to polish them they will never look quite as good as the molded plastic

mr pink floyd · #**197** 03/05/2007, 03:31 PM

well i realized the crossbrace on my 6025 did nothign to hold the prop in place, i realized this when i thought of how it started and stopped with no shroud on, so i did the wide flow mod. I cut it back so it had about 3-4mm of black left, incase i ever wanted to buy the mesh cover, and WOW

the flow is much wider, but i do haev to say it puches the water a much smaller distance. Across the tank it gets enough flow for SPS, but its like more of a slow moving solid wall. like a wave, if you will. From about 4-24" out he flow is eratic, it is completeyl nuts, adn it blew up more detritus in my tank i had no idea i had. I got a short video of this, and will post later. I tested it already nad it does not effect the on/off capabilities of the pump, the prop is held in with its own magnet

i dont have a dremel, so this oen i did with a regular old hacksaw, took my probably 15 seconds to cut right through it, and its a pretty clean cut too

jacmyoung · #**198** 03/05/2007, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mr pink floyd
well i realized the crossbrace on my 6025 did nothign to hold the prop in place, i realized this when i thought of how it started and stopped with no shroud on, so i did the wide flow mod. I cut it back so it had about 3-4mm of black left, incase i ever wanted to buy the mesh cover, and WOW

the flow is much wider, but i do haev to say it puches the water a much smaller distance. Across the tank it gets enough flow for SPS, but its like more of a slow moving solid wall. like a wave, if you will. From about 4-24" out he flow is eratic, it is completeyl nuts, adn it blew up more detritus in my tank i had no idea i had. I got a short video of this, and will post later. I tested it already nad it does not effect the on/off capabilities of the pump, the prop is held in with its own magnet

i dont have a dremel, so this oen i did with a regular old hacksaw, took my probably 15 seconds to cut right through it, and its a pretty clean cut too

Did you do the full blast mod? If so the increased flow will probably make the wide flow reach further.

Quote:

Originally posted by markandkristen
a little bit of coraline alage out to make that dissappear LOL

True but you alway know what is really missing

Quote:

Originally posted by GSMguy
use the dremmel to polish them they will never look quite as good as the molded plastic

Good idea, next time I will not polish them, they may look better that way.

hammerswinger · #**199** 03/05/2007, 05:24 PM

I just modded mine, wow what a difference. I did not do the nozzle length reduction yet and the ouput cross guards are still in place but man what a difference. I cut grooves below the impellar and opened up the spacing between the intake grates and ground the internal tube out.

mr pink floyd · #**200** 03/05/2007, 05:40 PM

i want to cut grooves below the impellar some more, i made soem slices and chips off with a razor blade i had sitting next to me, but thast about it, nad it seems to haev helped a little.

another thing ive noticed, the shroud seems to be part of the noise problem. When the shroud is ovv adn the pump is runnign with jus tthe prop exposed it is damn near silent, with the shroud on it vibrates and rattles

ill do the full blast mod later tonight, my recent time has been buildign a cride box to put over my HOB fuge, trying to keep some light from spilling over