My wood tank build - Page 17

Butch 37 · #**401** 10/04/2007, 11:04 PM

A few post up, scbauer said you took out the plastic things between the glass and wood because of pressure points..Did you use them? I like your idea using them to have a thicker gasket.
So which way is the best way? LOL

BTW, Tank looks awesome!!!!!!!!!!

dougie · #**402** 10/05/2007, 05:30 AM

awesome setup! cant wait to see it finished.

Brandan · #**403** 10/05/2007, 05:13 PM

Wow, looks awesome, makes me want to build a HUGE plywood tank now. All the fiberglass work doesn't exactly excite me though. Looks like you did a lot of woodworking prior to this project. . . Very nice work.

stugray · #**404** 10/08/2007, 05:59 PM

Del,

tank is looking great! I definitely picked up a few tips for next time I move.

For the glass panel spacer blocks ( after reading some of the above concerns ) I thought of a cleaner way:

Drill & tap the front panel with 1/4-20 threads right into the wood in 10-12 places around the perimeter. Screw in nylon bolts with the proper stickout & set the front glass. Once the silicone sets, remove the nylon bolts and use the remaining holes to attach the trim.

Also - are you interested in getting a few frags of your old corals?
Your green polyp Sarco just dropped its entire rim, so you could get back either the rim or the stalk. I also have the big green hydnophora that needs fragging, and I think I got a psammacorra from you that has numerous frags. The red plating monti is even huge and we were considering cutting down. ( you gave me ~4" square - it is now like 12" square with three main plates ).

Stu

H20ENG · #**405** 10/08/2007, 06:04 PM

What about all those 1/4" holes that are not full of silicone?

I realize it would be sealed around the edge of the glass, but I still wouldnt want holes under there.

I spoke to a guy at Waterdog years ago, and they used rubber or foam blocks. Just left them in.

stugray · #**406** 10/08/2007, 06:31 PM

H20ENG

"What about all those 1/4" holes that are not full of silicone?"

I saw that the main concern above was the point loading once you fill it with water ( Del has ~ an inch of seal all around )

By removing the "point" you would give the whole seam even loading even if you have the small void where you remove the screw. I think the tiny void every few feet would be a lesser evil than the point load.

Stu

H20ENG · #**407** 10/08/2007, 06:41 PM

I hear you.
If you used rubber blocks that had relatively the same durometer of cured silicone, I think that'd be ideal. That way it would have the same give all the way around.

JCTewks · #**408** 10/08/2007, 11:20 PM

that's how they do the BIG tank...check out the reefzilla thread at TRT and there is a good description of it with pics.

dsandfort · #**409** 10/08/2007, 11:34 PM

If I do it again (unlikely) here is how I'd do it. I'd buy some 1/8" square acrylic rods and lay them parallel around the perimeter in the center of the sealing surface, like a railroad track, with about 1/4" between the rods. I'd fill the void with silicone and screed it off and let it set up. Then I'd remove the acrylic rods. That would give a 1/8"x1/4" silicone bumber once cured.

I'd do the rest of the set just like I did it using the bumper as the offset.

However, I didn't do it that way this time and guess what, Still holding water as we write. I think there is lots of margin for error as long as the build has plenty of error margin.

JCTewks · #**410** 10/08/2007, 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by dsandfort
I think there is lots of margin for error as long as the build has plenty of error margin.

Great words Del!!!

morino · #**411** 10/14/2007, 06:31 PM

great project

slandis3 · #**412** 10/16/2007, 04:59 PM

Del, what glass thickness did you end up with?

dsandfort · #**413** 10/16/2007, 06:55 PM

I couldn't find 1/2" low iron locally and I didn't think 3/8" was thick enough so I had 2 pieces of 3/8" laminated to give me a 3/4" thick piece. Cost a little more than the epoxy but I didn't want to skimp.

miwoodar · #**414** 10/16/2007, 08:50 PM

Del - how about some new pics? I want to see the FTS when you have it! BTW - the rock work around the tank turned out awesome.

dsandfort · #**415** 12/12/2007, 10:04 PM

I've been out of country for some time and have not accomplished much at all.
I have become pretty good at building structure. I really like the pillar design with open space and overhangs.

I'm getting closer to the FTS but not yet. I did install the second OM 4-way and blew sand all over the place.

viperdragon666 · #**416** 12/12/2007, 10:55 PM

looking good

mbunakeith · #**417** 12/13/2007, 12:09 AM

looking good so far. cant wait to see it in a few years!

dsandfort · #**418** 12/14/2007, 08:24 PM

At the rate I'm going, the rock work might be just about finished in a few years.

jnarowe · #**419** 12/14/2007, 08:43 PM

don't sweat it. take your time and enjoy the ride.

dsandfort · #**420** 12/14/2007, 08:53 PM

The ride is great...it's the burns from dragging my arse that get old.

What's this I hear about no drinking?????

jnarowe · #**421** 12/14/2007, 08:55 PM

I have bno idea what you are talking about.

dsandfort · #**422** 12/14/2007, 09:24 PM

'that's not right dude. I probably won't be able to drink for another week."

Did I read the thread wrong?

jnarowe · #**423** 12/14/2007, 10:23 PM

well, I already screwed that up and had a shot with Sherman. He's the DEVIL!

dsandfort · #**424** 01/06/2008, 09:38 PM

WOOHOO....Company side is almost done. Need some crown molding on top and that'll do it. The Panels are cherry and black leather to match the bar just out of camera right. Speaking of bars, it's been months of turbid water and all of a sudden, clear as gin. I suppose the bacterial load finally coated all the sand particles, regardless of size.

zaireguy · #**425** 01/06/2008, 10:52 PM

super nice tank.congrats on all your hard work!!