Quote:
Originally posted by dkle
I think 420 nm is the true actinic, which gives off a purple color. The 460 nm bulbs give off a bluer color and pop the blue and red color a bit better in my opinion.
I ran 250w DE Ushio 10k and AB 10k before. They were too yellow for my taste. I switched to Phoenix a few years ago and never look back. To me it gives a perfect light, which is a crisp white with just a hint of blue to highlight the acros. Of course, this is all personal taste.
However, I read this entire thread and thought to myself: G-man sounds really good, I really should look into this. A quick plug into Sanjay's website show:
Bulbs w/Icecap ballast PPFD shielded Not shielded
G-man megachrome 13k 63 79
G-man coral 13k 71 88
Phoenix 73 90
Did I miss something about the monster output of the G-man? or Did Sanjay not test the G-man bulbs that you guys are talking about?
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The giesemann coral 13K (which is actually the 14.5) has a ppfd of 126 on the magnetic HQI ballast. Your are getting the 88 on an electronic ballast. The M80 ballast is the ballast that the bulb is spec'd to run on. 126 ppfd is the true output and just one very good example why DE lamps should be run on their spec, HQI magnetic ballasts.
BTW, I ran Phoenix 250 watt lamps for a little while. They were very very blue on both the magnetic and electronic ballasts. Far, far bluer than the Iwasaki 14000K which is actually a very crisp white bulb and an excellent choice for anyone wanting a 250 watt DE with good par, absolutely no yellow and just a slight hint of blue.
I know I have said this before in another thread but there are just too many different descriptions of the Phoenix bulbs in terms of color that I think it goes beyond individual perceptions. I think that some runs of the Phoenix bulbs are actually bluer than others. Either that or there are far more people who are color blind to blue than would seem possible. The Phoenix bulbs I had could have been branded TY-D-Bowl and it would have been a perfect name
01/10/2008, 12:52 PM
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